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Old 05-06-2007
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MK999 MK999 is offline
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Default AE shock build

I searched through the past 5 pages of this forum but couldn't find anything on filling shocks, mine are either solid or full of air atm, anyone point me to the relevant tips/articles?
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Old 06-06-2007
ben27111973 ben27111973 is offline
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fill the body of the shock with oil. slowly compress the shaft to get any air bubbles out and return shaft to full extension. fill the shock cap 1/4 full of oil and in a quick motion screw cap 1/23 way on and slowly bleed oil/air.

you should have a smooth feeling shock now.

my trick is I drill bleed hole in the side of the cap at a 45deg downangle and use the tiny button head screws that are used to capture the hingepins as bleed screws. this allows you to get the most consistent shock build I have been able to find.

ben
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Old 06-06-2007
Chris Doughty Chris Doughty is offline
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there is a link to an article that elvo wrote that is superb, anyone remember it?
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Old 06-06-2007
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elvo's article was awesome for the building, however it totally skipped one of the most vital parts, filling them. I managed to get them better than they were, i think drilling bleed holes is the only way to get them perfect though
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Old 06-06-2007
Southwell Southwell is offline
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http://users.pandora.be/elvo/12/8/1.html

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Old 06-06-2007
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Nice one SouthWell, beat me to it
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Old 06-06-2007
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Between pages 9 and 11 the shocks magically fill themselves with oil though
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Old 06-06-2007
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why have i never seen that link befor!!!

the spacer filling is a blackart , ive been told about it many times but never seen it online..nice one..but i have to say that bathys and my 3 sets of b4 shocks where all build by the Pitmoneky on sunday with out any of this magic and all 4 sets are working fine...this dosnt mean i will not try Evos magic next time.


One question, how come there is no mention of filling the shocks and bumping the air out of the shocks?
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Old 06-06-2007
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quick tip
build as per elvo, but when filling with oil add oil to just below top, bleed buy moving piston up and down to get rid of caught air,fill to top with piston at the bottom,put top on lightly,then lean shock over slightly so that the air bubble inside is facing the threads on one side only,then push up shock shaft and piston so air is expelled through the threads leaving oil in and no air.leave piston at the top of the shock and hold it there while u tighten the cap down hand tight,
perfect every time
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Old 06-06-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MK999 View Post
Between pages 9 and 11 the shocks magically fill themselves with oil though

Actually they don't fill themselves at all. Those are still in a cardboard box somewhere, bone dry
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Old 06-06-2007
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hmm, mini t shocks didn't handle too well in my experience
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Old 06-06-2007
Bastos Bastos is offline
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Perhaps this article could help you.

http://www.rayspeed.jp/index2.html


Take a look on the "Techtips" section.

there are lots of photos of "how to prepare the asso shocks"
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Old 06-06-2007
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yeah think I get the idea now, just practice I guess, still think bleed screws are required for perfection though
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Old 30-06-2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ben27111973 View Post
... my trick is I drill bleed hole in the side of the cap at a 45deg downangle and use the tiny button head screws that are used to capture the hingepins as bleed screws...
Could you plz post some pictures of your shock-caps just to show what you made?
thx

Lowie
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  #15  
Old 01-07-2007
flick5848 flick5848 is offline
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Yoke shock caps have this as standard, No idea if they would fit the AE shocks but here is a picture to give you a better idea of the bleed screw Ben mentioned
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSCF0616.jpg (20.3 KB, 141 views)
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Old 02-07-2007
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I found an article in an american magazine describing this style of damper "These don't actually have a bladder at all, the oil and air mix to form a froth for the piston to move through" Think you got too much air in them mate !
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Old 02-07-2007
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Do not use the tears of a gypsy instead of the oil, it will handle, like you say, shit!
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Old 12-07-2007
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I recomend this..

Yokomo shockAP art number: YS-8D

Mounted

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  #19  
Old 14-07-2007
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That's on an associated shock I assume? how they actually work/what do they do?
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Old 11-01-2008
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First, sorry for my bad English.

I would like to restart this thread, to recomplie different opinions about all different configurations.

O-rings:
  • Associated: Does it needs to change it regularly?
  • MIP: Does it tends to break?
  • Nortech Racing: people says that work well
  • Mugen MRX4(MU-D0509) : too much presure on shaft due to its size, but seems to work well
Caps:
- Emulsion Type:
  • Normal asso: very dificult to adjust all shocks presure similarly
  • Drilled asso: easy to configure, but dificult to make the perfect hole (angle, screew size, drill hole size ...)
  • Drilled Yokomo YS8Y: same as uppon but just with drilled hole, but Does it have diferent air capacity?
- Bladder Type:
  • Associated VCS2: no data how it works
  • Yokomo YS-8D: no data how ir works
  • Tamiya rubber diaphragm with asso caps: no data how ir works
Some people recomend to drill a small hole on black caps to avoid re-bound.

Why new Asso products (TC5 and RC8) have bladder shocks type? Why not new B44? Really works better Emulsion only on B4 and B44?
What do you think? Emulsion? Bladder? Which o-ring? Which Caps?
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