|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I would be grateful of any advice as to how people set their slippers up... I'm aware that the slipper needs to slip before the diff, but other than that, I'm learning...
I was told to hold the car on the ground by the back wheels and set it so that the front nearly jumped when you blip the throttle... However, on very low grip surfaces, I'm having trouble putting power down, and the car wants to spin round, as one of the rear wheels spins up. Tightening the diff tends to alleviate this to an extent, but I'm not comfortable with tightening the diff much, as it's basically just mashing ballbearings into the washers. Then someone else had shown me that they have their slipper way looser, so that they can turn it with their thumb when gripping the rear wheels... Mines tighter than that... I'd be grateful of any advice people are able to offer. Thank you. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Your diff should just be tight enough so it doesn't make what I call a "Barking sound" under acceleration. Don't over tighten it or you will be rebuilding every two mins.
You need to set the slipper so it slips for about half a metre. For different track conditions you'll have to set it accordingly. You can hold the back wheels and do it that way but it's better to take the nut spinner to the track and keep giving it little blips until you get it just right.(if that makes sense ![]() Phill
__________________
TLR 22 5.0 AC Elite TLR 22x4 Elite TeamC Tm2v1 TeamC Tco2c Evo Veteran |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I do it the way you mentioned. I hold the back wheels and blip the throttle full until the front wheels lift about an inch off the ground.
I also run my diff tight as do most of us. Will you be at worksop? If so come and see us.
__________________
Ardgay Models Schumacher CORE-RC Hobbywing Mark One Designs |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
As Phill has said above, you have to set it for the surface that you are running on.
The slipper, as far as I am concerned, is there to make the car easier to handle. If you are running on high grip Astro or carpet then the method of holding the back wheels and giving the throttle a jab will enable you to set the torque to a value that will not quite lift the front wheels. On slippery stuff that is way to much torque. As Phil says, it's a suck it and see exercise. Back it off so that you can accelerate without losing the back end and tweak it up and down from there. Now comes the problem and from my observations it's a problem that really good drivers don't have but I'm guessing that the likes of me and perhaps Monkeysmate do. Because you have set the slipper to slip, that's exactly what it will do. Then it gets hot, pigging hot, and it softens the nylon in the nyloc nut and the clutch setting backs off even more! So that by the end of five minutes I barely have any drive at all! It is way beyond my stupid left thumb to learn any new tricks, such as throttle control, so I am currently fitting an Avid multiplate clutch to my TC02CEvo, in the hope that it will be a little easier to set and more consistent in its setting. I have follow up plans if this is not the case. ![]()
__________________
Clive Check out the goings on at HBI here: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Heske...68872353145927 |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Thank you all for your replies.
I'll have a look myself through the week, and then i'll take you up on your offer at Worksop Allan. Thanks |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
No problem mate.
__________________
Ardgay Models Schumacher CORE-RC Hobbywing Mark One Designs |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Avid Triad top shaft and slipper fitted to my TC02Cevo-Dino
__________________
Clive Check out the goings on at HBI here: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Heske...68872353145927 |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|