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Old 22-03-2009
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Default astro-turf set up

hi guys,

I've been running my X6 at the astro-turf track at the coventry club today but it handled like a dog all day. I made a few changes to the camber links at the front which improved things but I still couldn't get a confident feel from the car.

Main problems is that 1, its not very stable over the bumps... even down the straight I struggled to hit full throttle because it was bouncing around like a yo yo. and 2, major understeer!!!

A friend of mean (the guy who actually won the day) was running an atomic carbon S2 and at the end of the final we swapped transmitters and had a lap of each others car... he commented on the mass of understeer, and wasn't surprised I was struggling... his felt awesome, could push it, very stable and turned when you wanted it to!!! I know the front end of the S2 and the X6 are the same as they both come from the B4 - but I cant figure out what is so wrong with mine???

I refuse to beleive that the S2 is that much of a better car to drive (much better quality I'll admit) so need some set up tips... what have you found that works???

I managed to bring it home to claim 3rd for the day but with a good car set up and a good feel from the car I'm sure i'd have atleast got 2nd and would have had a good battle for the lead.

Any help, would be grately appreciated

Thanks, Jon
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Old 22-03-2009
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I should also add that I was using identical tyres to that of the winning S2... scheumacher yellow mini spikes (like you'd use on grass) with every other spike on the outside row cut on the fronts. They were just an old set of semi-worn tyres from last years outdoor season... as was his!!!

Thanks, Jon
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Old 22-03-2009
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We kinda need to know what you were running as well but this is not right for the X6, it should have ace steering and it is also very good on bumps.

This is my set up from EPR the other week.

One thing I would say is if you are running lipo and you have no additional weight in the front of the car then it is going to understeer big time...this car was designed to with the weight split over the 2 halves effectively of nimhs and if you just take out the 2 front ones like with lipo your missing a lot of front weight.

From what you are saying I think this could have been the problem overall.

If you don't have losi shocks then just fit losi pistons in the ae shocks and run the nearest ae springs to the losi ones on the sheet.

Hope that helps and just pm any of the team guys including myself if you have any other questions.

E.
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File Type: doc X6² End set up.doc (71.0 KB, 112 views)
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Old 22-03-2009
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Agree with ellis here as i have never had a problem wth steering on my x6 there is loads and it is ace over them bumps with pretty much every setup have tried my car currently weighs 1750g with 35% to the front and 65% to the rear try and get some where close to that
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Old 23-03-2009
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I ran the S2 at Coventry a lot last year & it was very good round there in the dry but having ran the X6 there at the previous round of the winter series its equally as good & safer in some of the very bumpy bits

This is what I finished the day with
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File Type: doc X6 cov setup.doc (69.0 KB, 54 views)
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Old 23-03-2009
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cheers guys... will try some of these set ups.

appreciate all your help,

Jon

p.s, i've been running a 3 degree rear toe in block but both Ellis and Matt have set ups using a 4 degree block... what different handling characheristics will the 3 and 4 degree block give??? does anybody run a 3??

Thanks again
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Old 23-03-2009
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'Characteristics' even!!! lol
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Old 23-03-2009
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Also would like some words of wisdom regarding rear anti-squat... I have recently replaced my standard x6 chassis with a new x6 squared chassis. still running everything else as original x6. with the toe in block screwed directly onto the chassis, what anti-squat will this give? what does anti-squat do to the handling of the car??

sorry to be asking these basic set up questions but I'm new to the x6 game and want to get a winning car under me for the 2009 outdoor season... plus, and he'll no doubt read this, to beat my nemesis S2 competition! lol

Thanks, Jon
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Old 23-03-2009
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Hi Wacker Guy,

I see that you've consulted a Dictionary!

We'll have to get your Car on some Scales, but from picking it up yesterday, it felt pretty heavy..............it'll probably be fine with a decent amount of Weight on the Front, eliminating the Understeer

That Trishbits Brass Front Bulkhead would probably sort it.....its a pity that its so expensive though, at £30

NEMESIS S2 Guy!
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Old 23-03-2009
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The best £30 I spent this winter
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Old 23-03-2009
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Increasing the anti squat will free the rear of the car up in the corner & also help it jump higher. Most people seam to run 3-4 deg anti-squat DMS do some handy carbon anti squat shims which are worth a look.

Going to 4 deg toe on the rear will make the car much more stable which for a track like Cov is a big improvement!
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Old 24-03-2009
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As Matt says for the squat and toe in.

A little more about the toe in though is it doesn't really effect the steering as such with more toe in it just makes the car much more stable and easy to drive. Also it doesn't really give a whole load more traction, just makes it all nice and easy.

The brass bulkheads are good, but personally I don't like running them unless I have to as I don't like that much weight right on the nose of the car.

E.
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Old 24-03-2009
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The weight distribution thing the guys are talking about is probably the answer but as it only takes a second to check see if the servo saver nut and spring are firm in the servo saver. You will be amazed at the understeer generated if the saver operation is loose. Lots of guys superglue the saver halves together to ensure this cant happen.
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Old 24-03-2009
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Thanks again for all your comments guys... keep em coming!

Looking at the set up sheets from Ellis and Matt, I think a big problem with my set up is that I am only running 25 degree front caster blocks - they've been on the car since I got it last year... am i right in thinking that going to 30 degree block will make the car more aggressive on the front???

Also, both set ups put 3mm spacers in the rear shocks - do i presume that this is to stop the driveshaft (with the longer axles) hitting the diff nut on full compression??? if not, what is the reason......

and finally, regarding the front axle height: Ellis set up runs it at the bottom, and Matt's set up runs it at the top. As you would expect I have to be different and mine is in the middle so I was hoping somebody could tell me what this adjustment would do to the handling of the car???

following on from my last post, do we know what anti-squat my car would be running now with the rear block screwed directly to the new x6 squared chassis with no shims??? is it 4 or 5 degree???

Cheers, Jon.

P.s we will destroy those S2's!!!!
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Old 24-03-2009
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Actually that is a mistake then on my part as with the new squared I don't run any rear shock limiters now....sorry, must change that on the sheet.

I believe as well that with no squat washers it is 4° unlike the old car where it was 5°.

As to the front spindle height basically if you have it low you will get a touch more steering from the turn.

E.
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