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#1
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May have been discussed and I can't find it... so...
I'm tired of my diff loosening and eating itself so I'm looking for a solution. I've actually ignored my car for a couple months just because the diffs are so much work the car is no fun. I heard a couple months ago about putting the HB D4 diffs into the Pred. Don't remember who was talking about it, though. I think they said they were just waiting for the diffs to be released as a complete unit. Anyone get around to trying that? Or any other diffs? Or, has anyone gotten around to putting a standard spring setup in the stock diff? I think it should just require a washer, a longer screw, and a spring, but not having those things or a hobby store nearby, I'm not able to find out/figure it out on my own. I'm not even sure if this will fix the diff loosening, I just know that none of my other diffs come apart (except my Mi-3, which has no spring as well). Thanks guys Chris
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Chris Browning Larsen's Biscuits |
#2
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are you thread locking the diff bolt?
i've never had a diff come un-done like you describe. are they the right way round etc.? built correctly? i've also tried a HB One-way in the car, the driveshafts don't fit inside the outdrives, so that would be a waste of your time. take your diffs apart, and clean everything, then rebuild as per instructions, make sure you use strong thread lock on the nut/bolt. HTH |
#3
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pretty much as andy says, ignore the superglue idea and use a good threadlock, i use the trackside solutions stuff (blue bottle) as it is really good and havent had that problem. as the diff and thrustrace balls are ceramic try using a very thin smear of grease on both rather than to pack them as i found this to be better as well, if you want a full guide as to how i build one then pm me and i will put together a how to
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Nathan Ralls HPI, Custom Blitz, www.piraterc.com mr-o foams woop woop racing officialy keeping team toe out inline ![]() |
#4
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I had one come undone some time back, but the best idea is to stick with the Pred diffs and perfect the technique as described above. Job done.
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#5
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I had the same trouble when running my pred. It was caused by dirt in the thrust race. You may get away with cleaning it and rebuilding but, if its happened a lot the thrust balls may now be mis-shaped. Not really a problem with the diff just my slack maintenance regime
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#6
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i'd say from experiance use loctite 242. its around £4.00 for a 200ml bottle but it goes far.
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EAT, SLEEP & RACE. Keeping fast motors reving hard. signed...migsy racing made better by Losi, Team Xtreme, HPI BAJA 5B. novak, castle creations, trak-power lipos bantam B6 and my SMR nicely done by huski sport uk. ![]() www.the-pred.co.uk RC BEARINGS 4 U. Club 22 (admin) Losi22, losi xxx cr losi xx-4, losi xxx-4G baja 5b 30.5cc. |
#7
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Yeah they're right way round etc. They have lasted quite a while (compared to the Mi-3 diffs), but not quite as long as I hoped. My front is still intact actually, but the rear is coming undone. Perhaps I forgot threadlock on the rear. Wouldn't surprise me that I would forget the very last step.
Guess I'll give a good cleaning and more thread lock etc. Thanks guys
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Chris Browning Larsen's Biscuits |
#8
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The diffs in the oOple review car have been perfect.
They have not been touched since the car was built for the review six months ago, if fact the car has needed zero transmission maintainence at all, it seems bullet-proof.
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SP12/RC10/XLS/JRX-2/XX/XXCR/XXCR-KE/XXX/XXXBK2/CR2/Xpro/B4/XX4/XXX4/X5/X11/DEX410/DEX210/DNX408/8ight/VW Golf GTI MK2/VW Golf TDI Wagon/Ovlov V70 D5/VW Beetle II (registered to Carrie)/Bailey Ranger/(does anyone read this bullshit?)/Creda Tumble2/HotPoint FE800/BOSCH SGS45C02GB/Dyson DC04/new patio doors & windows/freshly painted bannister rail & skirting boards, baby. |
#9
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I use the drop of CA-glue and it works fine.
Does blue lock-tite work as good? Or is there a certain reason for not using the CA-glue-trick as it was described on the old Pred-forum (you know, the one that's been offline for weeks ![]() |
#10
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You mean the old forum I referred to as "dead" on here a number of months ago and made the point that it was no longer needed as we now have oople, and then I was promptly chastised on here by a large number of people who were apparently loyal to the-pred even though they were on oople all the time and never on the-pred, the same people who proceeded to continue to not use the-pred and continued to use oople, despite having yelled at me for suggesting they do just that?? Yeah, I miss that forum. As for CA vs Loctite, I would assume that since CA dries as a hard acrylic, can not at all fill gaps, is prone to cracking/de-bonding from the slightest bit of stress, and is in general not made to glue metal to anything, and Loctite dries as a softer plastic that adheres specifically to metal, fill gaps, and is made to do the specific job of holding threads together, Loctite is more reliable and just works better. I've tried CA many times in a pinch, and always regretted not finding the thread locker... Maybe it was the specific CA I used, the 8 or so brands across the years, and everyone else's glue works great for all I know, but thread locker always works great ![]() I could always be wrong, just like I was about the forum, though.
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Chris Browning Larsen's Biscuits |
#11
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about Pred-forum vs Oople-Pred-threads ...
It is true that the oOple-forum is much more alive ... but AFAIK there is more material to be found on the Pred-site. It is not only the Pred-forum that is gone, but the complete Pred-site and AFAIK there is (was?) much more (specific) Pred-material to be found on the Pred-site as on the oOple-forum: manuals, set-up-sheets, specific threads, ... So I would really like to see it come back alive. Does anyone know what the intentions are of the owners of the Pred-site (are these the Team Xtreme-people?) |
#12
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try now
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#13
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hey great
![]() it's open reachable again. I hope it's final. WHat happened, Franki? |
#14
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My Hamster "Leela" drive more better of me!!! |
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