Kyosho Lazer ZX-5 Readyset

[mcorrea]

Hello,

I have a Kyoxho Lazer ZX-5 Readyset with some upgrades that I like a lot. I have read a lot about the newer versions' suspension and my curiosity has kicked in.

I am thinking of changing the arms, CVDs and hubs to the newer version, keeping the old chassis and battery placement (stick pack). Do you think this would be an improvement?

Is it also advisable to upgrade the diff boxes (not the diffs, I actually like the ball diffs) I understand that they lower CG or something, can someone explain what is different in them?

Do you know of bodies that will fit the original chassis?

Thanks in advance,
Matias

[bretts]

Hi Matias

Do you use your car for racing? If so I would look at the setup of your current car first before buying those extras. Things have changed alot since the ZX5 design came out however I still run an original ZX5 indoors and still find it works well. I wouldn't dare try and compete outdoors on an astro track though.

Hope this helps

Brett

[Dazzieboy]

I bought a standard ZX5 when I got back into racing a couple of years ago. I found big improvements by upgrading it to SP spec which used different wishbones, hubs and driveshafts. Over the winter I have built this car into a Rudebits DB4 (shortie) and at my first competitive meeting last weekend found that it was another big step forward. I would say the car is now somewhere between a ZX5 FS2 and a ZX6. The great thing about the lazer is it's ability to be upgraded if you haven't got £300-£400 to shell out in one go for a new car. Have a look in the kyosho section for more info

[mcorrea]

Thanks for the replies.

I have just joined a club. We race on an outdoors track with very loose dirt, quite bumpy. Jumps are not tough, just a few singles, not much air catching. The main difficukty is lots of hairpin turns, 7 in total, which, coupled with the lack of grip make it quite challenging to be able to carry speed through the turns.

I'm curious as to whether the newer arms would help with steering and being able to carry speed throught the hairpins.

Thanks again.

Matias

[Dazzieboy]

One of the features of the SP upgrade was, I believe, better steering (I certainly found that anyway) coupled with the 10mm shorter chassis over the FS should make it good on a tight twisty track. Part numbers for conversion are here:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/brunei-r...onversion.html

[mcorrea]

I ordered the parts, they should arrive next week. I hope it will make a difference.

Thanks for your help.

[bretts]

Hi,

Just out of interest, where did you find all the parts?

Thanks

Brett

[Dazzieboy]

I mainly found bits on here and ebay. I used hobby japan on ebay, if ordering a few parts you can overcome the high postage cost by virtue of how cheap the parts are. Another item worth considering over the ready set version is the steel diff out drives see here:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kyosho-LA2...item233840e1f9

[mcorrea]

I found the parts on amain but LA257 was cheaper from amazon. I live in France, though, so the cost is not the same as from the US. There are cheaper places, like losiparts but shipping costs make them nonviable.

Regarding the steel diffs, I bought my car second hand and the guy had already changed one for the steel version, I changed the other one last month.

[mcorrea]

Update: I changed the A-arms, shafts and hubs to the newer parts and i'm not sure what is different, but I like it. I think I do have more grip in my track and it's more predictable.

Question: a couple of weeks ago I broke the motor mount and ordered a replacement from a-main, part TF017BL. It comes with three o-rings. Does anyone know what they are used for?

TIA,
Matias

[Dazzieboy]

Glad you like the upgrades

The o-rings are for the motor screws and go between the motor and the mount. They hold the motor screws in place when the motor is removed