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I have a BMax2 worlds with the full alloy chassis which I have found superb outdoors, but as we are now entering the indoor season I'm wondering whether I ought to have the plastic chassis fitted rather than the alloy? Will this give any noticeable difference or should I just stick with the alloy?
FYI I am a slow, but reasonably consistant driver Ps - am I ok staying with mid motor set up or should I switch to rm config? I run at Batley ( whittcliffe) so track is wood / carpet (I think)
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I've got Araldite and a Swiss Army Knife - what more do I need? Yokomo YZ-2 No 4WD because nothing lives up to my original Optima. Until now maybe?... Last edited by Ashlandchris; 08-10-2014 at 06:21 AM. Reason: iPad though it knew better and changed what I typed |
#2
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Only go plastic if it's lower than medium grip. So more in the low-medium grip. Else go Alu, you won't be disappointed.
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Numquam cedunt victores, numquam ignavi vincunt. |
#3
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At Batley indoors, the thing that will help grip levels far more than a plastic or alloy chassis is brushing the floor before the track goes down. this frequently doesn't get done or forgotten, depending on who gets to the track first to setup. If its not done, it takes a good 2-3 rounds to clean the racing line, and good luck if you end up off it. When the floor has been brushed the grip level is good and consistent. I've found the alloy chassis on the mid car fine in this case. When it's not been brushed, and on other super slippy tracks, the rear motored car can be better for sure, either with alloy or plastic. What makes Batley indoors particularly difficult (to drive and to setup) is the difference between the low traction floor and the super high grip carpet. it does take some getting used to.
My rear car has the plastic chassis, but only as I had it from a v1 kit. I've heard of the newer harder mid gearbox being blamed for plastic chassis's breaking when used together, so I'd be aware of that. I think you should stay alloy with the mid car, and maybe go plastic for a rear car, but run it as alloy in rear motor in the first instance. I'll be taking both (when we start racing there) and see how grip is on the day. If I get there in time, I try to push a brush round the floor before the track goes down. This make more of a difference than plastic or alloy chassis!
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Team Yokomo - YZ-2CAL3 | YZ-2DTM3 | YZ-4SF2 | YZ-2T | YZ-2DTM Worlds | YZ-2DTM x2 | YRX-12 x2 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10electric | Batley Buggy Club | YORCC | RHR | MB Models --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Last edited by neallewis; 08-10-2014 at 09:53 AM. |
#4
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I think I've an idea why the difference between the floor and our carpet is so great. At a lot of tracks when the carpet is laid, it takes a while to clean the dust off the racing line and bring the grip up. However as we have to keep all our kit outside in a shipping container (during winter remember) , the carpet is inherently ever so slightly damp. I think this keeps the dust down and has the carpet grip levels close to optimum right from the off.
I do have the solution though, burn the carpet and just run on all slippy stuff ![]() ![]()
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#5
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It's alright John, I've got a load more carpet ready to be used ;-)
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#6
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Decided to put all the bits together that I have and have managed to make a rear motor plastic chassis bmax2 so will give that a go. Have taken Neil's advice and put a 13.5 turn motor in. All I was missing was a servo saver so will get one ordered from MB and then hopefully away we go. Just need to see if I can find a Sunday now that doesn't have children's parties etc slap bang in the middle! Oh, and a clue about Batley indoor schedule...
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I've got Araldite and a Swiss Army Knife - what more do I need? Yokomo YZ-2 No 4WD because nothing lives up to my original Optima. Until now maybe?... |
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