Shimming the CVD's

[Tom3012]

Hi all...

Just a quick question...

Ive just put the e-speed camberlinks on my car... on the diff nut side the shock wouldnt compress fully as the nut in the diff half seemed to be in the way?

I took the CVD out and moved the shimms around so there's now one behind the wheel spacer and one on the inside, works fine now...

How do other people chim up the CVD's? on the outside (behind the wheel spacer) or on the inside (before you put the CVD through the bearings in the hub)?

Sorry for the probably stupid question

Thanks in advance for your help

Tom

[migsy]

hi mate. i tend to shim on the outside, behind the wheel. i find this way you can see whats going on a little easier.

[Body Paint]

Originally Posted by Tom3012

Hi all...

Just a quick question...

Ive just put the e-speed camberlinks on my car... on the diff nut side the shock wouldnt compress fully as the nut in the diff half seemed to be in the way?

I took the CVD out and moved the shimms around so there's now one behind the wheel spacer and one on the inside, works fine now...

How do other people chim up the CVD's? on the outside (behind the wheel spacer) or on the inside (before you put the CVD through the bearings in the hub)?

Sorry for the probably stupid question

Thanks in advance for your help

Tom

TOM, Have you changed anything else? or have you just put the espeed parts on?

The espeed hangers should not alter the driveshaft plunge that much, if at all.

Have you set the camber correctly after fitting the hangers?

[Mike Hudson]

i've always ran the shims on the inside of the hub with no problems at all

[elvo]

Originally Posted by Body Paint

The espeed hangers should not alter the driveshaft plunge that much, if at all.

They do. Because the upper camber links becomes shorter, there's more dogbone plunge. Enough for the CVD to hit the plastic thrust bearing cover.

Moving shome shims to the outside helps. Dremeling the ball part od the CVD bone a bit flatter also helps. Using hole 'C' in the hubs helps as well, gives the upper link back some of its length.

[Body Paint]

Originally Posted by elvo

They do. Because the upper camber links becomes shorter, there's more dogbone plunge. Enough for the CVD to hit the plastic thrust bearing cover.

Moving shome shims to the outside helps. Dremeling the ball part od the CVD bone a bit flatter also helps. Using hole 'C' in the hubs helps as well, gives the upper link back some of its length.

Good point, I moved from hole B to hole C on the hub at the same time as adding the hangers. So I would'nt have noticed as much difference in plunge.

I'm guessing Tom has solved his problem as he's not commented for a while???

[Tom3012]

Hi guys, thanks for the replies... sorry i was a bit slow to get back to you all...

i just moved some of the shimms to the outside...

i have another question though, ive got some rayspeed hubs on order, which mount hole should i use? inside or out? (as a general starting point)

Cheers guys, much appreciated

[Lee]

I always run the outer holes, the car just feels nicer to me like this, and it feels like the car has more on power steering

[bigred5765]

as lee said, when we moved to the e speed hangers we moved to position c on the hubs, so didn't really see any difference, in drive shaft plunge.we run one big spacer on the inside, but thats because were on bk2 gen2 axles, none on the outside at all,

[Body Paint]

Yup, outer (same as hole C on stock hubs). Especially when using Espeed hangers.

Be carefull the ball cup does not hit the hub at full suspension compresion though.

[Tom3012]

ok thanks guys, ill move to the outer hole... much appreciated