Rc10 worlds car re release quality

[adey]

Hi all, I have been lucky enough to have one of these as a present and I am in the process of assembling the car. I have a few concerns though. The larger chassis screws needed filing as the heads had flashing on them. The chassis was scratched and the finish of the chassis isn't great either. The chassis screws do not sit flush with the chassis as the counter sunk holes don't seem to be countersunk enough. It may just be me but this kit was £230 and I feel that these are not issues that should be encountered with a associated kit. Is it me being picky or am I correct here ?.

[ste_lazzaro]

If I remember well about the original RC10 I had few years back, these are "vintage" issues, as the car is.
So.. well.. you can always say the manufacturing is realistic to the original one!

[neallewis]

countersinking is as per original cars. screws did seem a bit rough with the flashing on to be fair, i dont recall that on my recent classic rere build.

my worlds has just gone together fine though, countersinking is as i expected. The transmission is a bit tight, Internet says its the layshaft and does break in fine, or you can replace with B4.1/2 layshaft. im just going to run mine.

[HyperDunley]

Are these imperial or metric?

[neallewis]

imperial

[HyperDunley]

Originally Posted by neallewis

imperial

Thanks

[adey]

My transmission is very tight also. Does anybody know any setups for the car ?

[HyperDunley]

Originally Posted by adey

My transmission is very tight also. Does anybody know any setups for the car ?

I was reading this thread before, seems a few people are having the same problem...

http://www.rc10talk.com/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=34024

Hope there is some help in there for you

[neallewis]

Mine was tight. its the layshaft by accounts on rc10talk. I think its slightly off centre, though I can't see it on rotation by hand. if you are bothered, its he same part as the B4.1 layshaft.

I ran mine up last night in the lounge, give it about 5 mins of various speed throttle and a few blasts on the carpet and its freed off real nice.
Just run it and it will bed in.

I'm racing mine tomorrow night for the first time.

I've gone with kit setup, just heavier oils. 37.50 and 32.50. Think I should have gone heavier on the rear now though (or the no.2 piston), as it bounces a bit at the rear when dropped. Oh yeah, I set it to short wheelbase as well, as i'll be running tight indoor tracks for now.

[jayst]

i had to replace my topshaft as it was junk. put a b4 topshaft in and runs alot smoother. also had the driveshaft drop out on the motor side. so i had put another 1mm droop limiter in the shocks .

[neallewis]

Ran my car this evening. I must say it felt great first time out, but rear shocks were too bouncy (piston 1, 35wt). I swapped them for my goldtub set (piston 2 37.50) and the car was lots better, but a touch too much droop. Felt best with the green rear springs on the gold shocks, but popped out a driveshaft. Will rebuild kit shocks with piston 2 and 37.50, and add in a couple of extra droop spacers.
Gearbox has freed up lovely. Diff needed tightening during the night. Happy with it, and super fun to drive.

[neallewis]

Also, this: http://events.redrc.net/2014/04/new-...id-motor-rc10/

[HyperDunley]

Does the chassis give you option to move the battery holder back a bit so you can run shorty lipo's?

[neallewis]

Originally Posted by HyperDunley

Does the chassis give you option to move the battery holder back a bit so you can run shorty lipo's?

It has the option to allow you to drill holes where you want them.

[Aussie Top Force]

I recently built mine and found that the counter sinking is very much the same as the original cars, I have a Graphite Team Car and an RPM Suspension coverted Tub Team Car. I haven't run it yet as I'm waiting for AE to send me a new top shaft as the slipper plate rubs on the motor plate. The gear box is also a bit rough but I have been assured by AE it will free up when run. I will damage the slipper plate it I run it, so waiting!

I also noticed how close the dog bones where to popping out of the diff outdrives using the recommended set up, so I will also put a few more spacers in the rear shocks to reduce droop. Otherwise the car is fine and looks great! It'll be run at a vintage meet in September in Open 2wd. Will likely run it with a 10.5 Brushless.

[adey]

I have got some original rc10 worlds car screws for the chassis and they fit into the countersinking on the chassis perfectly. The re release chassis screws are just rubbish in my kit.