rw spur

[leelar]

does any one know were i can get the rw spur gears from which take the durango pads i have had a look on all the usual shop sites but they seem to be out of stock everywhere

[hotrodchris]

if Insideline are out of stock try going straight to RW Engineering in Fareham Hants?

[kartstuffer]

Just use a Durango spur ,I have used one for the last 6 months racing every week and no problems.

[Clive Loynes]

Which slipper pads are thought to be the best?

I modified the TC spur to fit a ballrace and made friction plates from tufnol but that material did not seem to be ideal. When it slipped the surface seemed to glaze over and it no longer gave a good progressive setting. It was either slipping a lot or not at all.

I can put the inner profile into anything but would like to know that the end result will give what I'm after.

I also use a larger diameter spring, which locates over the boss on the pressure plate. This gives a lower spring rate and makes adjustment easier. It also lets the nyloc nut get onto the shaft!

Cheers

Clive

[Legacy555]

Generally made from PTFE (Teflon).
Associated and Schumacher are the best of the octagonal type fits.

[Clive Loynes]

Ta.

Is it worth looking at Associated's "high torque" version on a 2wd?

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by Clive Loynes

Ta.

Is it worth looking at Associated's "high torque" version on a 2wd?

Hi Clive,
I've never tried them, but standard pads work just fine in 2wd.

[Clive Loynes]

Originally Posted by Legacy555

Hi Clive,
I've never tried them, but standard pads work just fine in 2wd.

If all the others are also PTFE, is there any point in using them?

Having sorted the spring and concentricity issues with the TC clutch, it strikes me that I might as well use the standard ones.

It just seemed to me that the standard TC pads tended to melt a bit and then give higher torque at the start of the next run. I put this down to the hot plastic having bonded itself to the pressure plate.

[Legacy555]

The Team C PTFE pads are made of a good material.
Its just that their moment and surface area is quite small - makes adjustment quite sensitive and also means that the assembly will slip for longer as frictional area is lower.

Octagonal pads have a smaller internal diameter and more surface area. thats all

[Clive Loynes]

I had more problems with the standard slipper pads on Sunday. They just wouldn't bite, no matter how tight I adjusted the darn thing.

A friend has kindly provided an HoBao spur gear which comes complete with slipper pads, for me to try. The pad material looks more fibrous than the other pads that I have seen so when I have finished making gearboxes I shall give it a try. The bore of the spur gear is 6mm so I either have to re-profile the inside of the pad to fit the Team-C spur or machine the HoBao spur to take a bearing.

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by Clive Loynes

I had more problems with the standard slipper pads on Sunday. They just wouldn't bite, no matter how tight I adjusted the darn thing.

A friend has kindly provided an HoBao spur gear which comes complete with slipper pads, for me to try. The pad material looks more fibrous than the other pads that I have seen so when I have finished making gearboxes I shall give it a try. The bore of the spur gear is 6mm so I either have to re-profile the inside of the pad to fit the Team-C spur or machine the HoBao spur to take a bearing.

Hi Clive,
What happens when you tighten the clutch fully? with the spring fully compressed? Is the slipper then locked solid or still slipping?

[Clive Loynes]

Originally Posted by Legacy555

Hi Clive,
What happens when you tighten the clutch fully? with the spring fully compressed? Is the slipper then locked solid or still slipping?

If I wind it in another turn it will not slip at all. The trouble was that I didn't start with it set properly and there was no opportunity to adjust it correctly during the meeting as the gap between races was only one and a half minutes. I found that getting the jumps right with an unknown and varying level of bite from the clutch to be a nightmare.

We could do with laying a strip of astroturf along a corridor somewhere so that such adjustments could be made.

I kept tightening it, and made some progress, but then had to strip it down again and the setting was lost. By the time that the qually was over I had something that I could drive, although I don't think that the 12000 cSt oil in the diff was helping me to turn much.

I apologise that I have taken this thread a bit off topic but whilst I'm at it, how much anti-squat do you run on the TC02C?

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by Clive Loynes

If I wind it in another turn it will not slip at all. The trouble was that I didn't start with it set properly and there was no opportunity to adjust it correctly during the meeting as the gap between races was only one and a half minutes. I found that getting the jumps right with an unknown and varying level of bite from the clutch to be a nightmare.

We could do with laying a strip of astroturf along a corridor somewhere so that such adjustments could be made.

I kept tightening it, and made some progress, but then had to strip it down again and the setting was lost. By the time that the qually was over I had something that I could drive, although I don't think that the 12000 cSt oil in the diff was helping me to turn much.

You can set your slipper on your pit table with a securely pinned down towel or on the ground.

Put the car down on the table and losely hold the top of the rear shock tower so the car doesn't go anywhere. Blip the throttle making sure the wheels arn't spinning on the surface and watch the nose of the car. If the car jumps out of your hand in a wheelie style fashion - its too tight. If is slips like crazy - its too loose. The ideal point is a tiny bit of slip with the front suspension raising, but not coming off the table surface. Takes 2 seconds to do.

Originally Posted by Clive Loynes

I apologise that I have taken this thread a bit off topic but whilst I'm at it, how much anti-squat do you run on the TC02C?

I've only used standard anti-sqaut so far. Ideally if you can space the RF hanger from level with the rear hanger (0 deg) to +2mm (about 3 degrees) it would be ideal. Am I to assume you're making something wonderful in this area

[Clive Loynes]

LOL

I can see the bloke in the next pit space getting an earful of buggy when I next set the slipper.

I find that the setting backs off in the race. It will wheelie of the line but has gone soft by the end of five minutes abuse.

Don't see any point in making anything wonderful for anti-squat as Team-C already market an aluminium rear bracket to give 3.5 degrees. I think that standard is about 2 degrees.

[Tom3012]

I ran an AE spur gear and pads, had no problems at all... Ive also got a little mod that people used on the losi xxx to spread the spring tension more evenly, ill show you next time i see you

[hotrodchris]

Originally Posted by Clive Loynes

LO.

I find that the setting backs off in the race. It will wheelie of the line but has gone soft by the end of five minutes abuse.

Check the slipper assembly is not rubbing on anything, like the plastic surround as that creates heat and the slipper nut comes undone as there is no lock screw?

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by Clive Loynes

Don't see any point in making anything wonderful for anti-squat as Team-C already market an aluminium rear bracket to give 3.5 degrees. I think that standard is about 2 degrees.

Hi Chris the alloy 3.5 RR hanger has 3.5 degrees toe-in - the 3.5 is not the anti-squat. There are some drivers that machine 1mm of the top of that RR hanger and put a 1mm washer under it to reduce the antisquat to about 0.5 degrees.

I solely use the TC02C on wet astro as when the astro is dry I use the TM2. Generally speaking, I find less antisquat better on slipper surfaces as the car drifts out of corners more consistantly. If you run the standard antisquat you tend to get more rotation late in the corner which can be tricky where there is little grip. Although, antisquat can aid forward traction depending on your shock setup.

[Clive Loynes]

Thanks for the clarification.

Perhaps something wonderful is required after all.

[Clive Loynes]

Nothing has been rubbing that shouldn't be and I have now fitted a spur and friction pads from Hobao that a Southport club member has provided me with for a trial. (Thanks again Lee)

I've fitted a ball-race to the centre of the gear to ensure that it stays concentric to the shaft and the friction pads seem to have a higher coeficient of friction than the TC ones. We shall see. ;-)

UPDATE
Hobao spur and friction pads worked very well and didn't appear to need adjustment all day.