TRF502X spare parts - advice for noobs

[kidcongo]

Well,

I have raced my TRF 502X now for two outdoor seasons (on dirt/clay track) and two indoor seasons (on carpet track with wood barriers (ouch!) and have learned a lot about what breaks and what doesn't in my experience. I thought I would put a list up for people new to this great car who might be wondering what to buy for spares right off the bat.

For starters this is my personal experience, so other opinions are out there and I welcome people adding to the thread with their own advice. I just wish I had this info before I started racing so I could not have spent the first couple months scrambling to get parts.

Things that I broke the most while learning and stock now as spares in my race bag:

#1 A-Arms: I broke and even number of front and back A-Arms and kept replacing with the stock "high traction" arms. When I upgraded (downgraded) to the TRF 501X arms (#51275 and #51279) I stopped breaking arms and have not had any breaks since (now over a year). I do not notice a difference in handling. The weird thing for me is I broke a total of 4 fronts and 4 rears, all the original style. The rears shattered on landings. They did not break off, but the webbing cracked which i noticed between races. We have some pretty hard-core plywood jumps inside, so the rear end takes some good hits. The fronts I broke on impacts and crashes like you would expect. Buy the 501X arms when you are starting out.

#2 Front Shock Shafts: I bent both stock front shafts, and replaced them with the TI coated (#54042). I have fractured a couple TI rods and keep a 2-pack as spares.

#3 Front hex wheel adapters (#9804313): You will likely break a couple of these until you learn the trick to mount a new set of Tamiya wheels. If you ever tighten them with the wheel in the wrong spot they crack in half. Buy a pack of two spares

#4 Front turn-buckle shafts. I bent a couple front suspension turnbuckes in crashes. I replaced them with hard ones (#53943) and no problems since.

#5 Damper parts: If you bend a shock shaft you may screw up your lower shock plastic seal assembly and guide (#51280). I stock a spare set.

#6 Spur gear: Our outdoor track keeps getting better and more clay, less gravel, but one pebble makes it into your body just right, you lose a couple teeth on your spur gear (#51415 48T). I stock a spare spur for outdoors.

#7 Wing mount: Ripped a couple of these apart ending up the wrong way up! (#19004287)



Things I bought as spares and have never ever used (yet - just jinxed myself I am sure):

#1 Front and rear shock towers #4304113) - I bought spare shock towers, but have realized these things are pretty bullet proof. If they survived my first year of 4x4 buggy they must be pretty tough. Haven't needed them yet

#2 Gearbox covers (#9004286) - I know many have complaints about this part breaking on the front. I have a spare, but have never broken it.

#3 misc suspension and steering parts - I have never broke a C-Hub or Steering arm, or caster block, or axle.

Upgrade I recommend for newcomers:
I would say the steering upgrade (#84283) is a noticeable improvement that even newcomers with appreciate as it makes the steering more responsive, and more robust and reliable. My steering used to jam when debris from our old track surface got under the flush steering levers and the old lock-to-lock sucked. The new chassis upgrade kit is also cool, but you won't notice a big difference until you get better.


Have fun, hope this helps someone out there

[djmcnz]

This is a great post actually, thanks. Much of this also applies to the 501X/511 as well.

If you're using 51275 or 51279 just check them one in a while for tweaking.

[Aussie Top Force]

Cannot agree more! I've had similar experiences with broken A arms. Same goes for 201! Funny thing is I've always broken a rear arm on the right hand side, never a left!

Further, i bent some kit screws for the top shock mounts on the front.

In respect of the rear wing mount - try a 511 version they look identical, but the mould is actually different (has different bumpers). Sounds stupid but the 511 version has lasted a lot longer and not striped the screws where it attaches to the tower. After a couple of bad landings with the 502 wing mounts the screws pulled right out and the mounts were no longer usable. the 511 version has remained solid!

I would add in get some upgraded diff balls.

[taomo]

Thanks for this helpful thread kidcongo!

In about 3 months, I broke these pieces:


-Note the 2 rear wheel axle (both are from the right side). I am worried about this because I have not seen anyone else with this problem and can't find some titanium wheel axles to prevent the damage.

I recommend to use titanium screws, especially in aluminum to aluminum and use longer screws in wing mount and rear stabilizer mount.

I take some photos to show you some of my tips:
1-Longer screws:


2-Protect the rear suspension mount:


3-If you don't like the double sided tape


4-If you must purchase a wing, I recommend the LMR.


5-Fredrik tower spacers improves suspension movement


6-Titanium screws:


7-Improve clearance using 3x1mm shim


8-Use two 0.1mm shims to prevent oil leaks:

For full size photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/9248112...th/8499791603/

I recommend to purchase a full ceramic ball set for diffs when the original ones fail.
The steering set is a good buy, no doubt.
No one has commented how good are the front WO universal shafts (yes, it is not cheap but I think it is a good upgrade).

In general, a spare of all plastic parts is important (arms, gear boxes, wing mount, damper caps, damper retainers and adjusters...).

If you broke the hex hub, i don't recommend to buy the #54406, better buy the original ones.

If you run in outdoor track, use durango boots to protect diffs (thanks to kidcongo for this tip!!),


This is a great post, I hope everybody give their tips and recommendations!


Best regards

[kidcongo]

Taomo,

Where are you adding the shims to the shocks to prevent leaking oil?

I noticed that bit of Lexan you put under the front bumper plate. I did that too. For those who are wondering what it does, it prevents the front of the undertray from catching on anything. Good tip! saves the undertray and prevents flipping when the undertray bites into something.

Also I agree with all, the stock diff balls are junk. I would upgrade when building this car, and throw the stock ones in the garbage, or save one or two for spares if you lose one of your ceramic ones.

[taomo]

Hi,

This is how I added shims




As the track is closed today (because snow), I change the oil and add 2 more shims. When I had only two, I put them between the plastic white shim. I don't know if it's the best position for them but it works for me.

When placing shims and o-rings, I recommend you use a little grease to allow the seal to be most effective producing less friction on the shock shaft. The movement will be smoother.


Best regards

[djmcnz]

Try Tamiya 42214 (or equivalent) for the shocks if they're leaking, I added these without any green slime to test and they're working a treat! Am using similar in my gear diff and they're brilliant.

[taomo]

Originally Posted by djmcnz

Try Tamiya 42214 (or equivalent) for the shocks if they're leaking, I added these without any green slime to test and they're working a treat! Am using similar in my gear diff and they're brilliant.

I bought them recently and I will try them soon.
Thanks for the tip!

How about weights? Did you put weights in your 502X?

[kidcongo]

I have the tamiya weight kit that replaces the battery holders (#84305). It seems to help with handling. In my case I found the car a lot less front-heavy which was good for our Winter indoor carpet season. A little less adressive steering on the carpet, and less traction rolling. I will see when we get back outside onto dirt. All in all I think the car needs a little extra weight towards the back wheels to be balanced.

[kidcongo]

Brought this post forward for the benefit of Cory01. I use a 7.5 motor with an 19T pinion for my track (pretty tight and twisty).

I would buy 16/17/18/19 pinions maybe with your motor and keep checking your motor temps.

[taomo]

Don't tight too much your slipper. This is my 2 last weekend's fault

[kidcongo]

Wow....I've never seen damage like that. Did you lock your slipper right down?

[taomo]

Originally Posted by kidcongo

Wow....I've never seen damage like that. Did you lock your slipper right down?

Yes, totally lock

[Kave]

Originally Posted by taomo

Thanks for this helpful thread kidcongo!

In about 3 months, I broke these pieces:


-Note the 2 rear wheel axle (both are from the right side). I am worried about this because I have not seen anyone else with this problem and can't find some titanium wheel axles to prevent the damage.

I recommend to use titanium screws, especially in aluminum to aluminum and use longer screws in wing mount and rear stabilizer mount.

I take some photos to show you some of my tips:
1-Longer screws:


2-Protect the rear suspension mount:


3-If you don't like the double sided tape


4-If you must purchase a wing, I recommend the LMR.


5-Fredrik tower spacers improves suspension movement


6-Titanium screws:


7-Improve clearance using 3x1mm shim


8-Use two 0.1mm shims to prevent oil leaks:

For full size photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/9248112...th/8499791603/

I recommend to purchase a full ceramic ball set for diffs when the original ones fail.
The steering set is a good buy, no doubt.
No one has commented how good are the front WO universal shafts (yes, it is not cheap but I think it is a good upgrade).

In general, a spare of all plastic parts is important (arms, gear boxes, wing mount, damper caps, damper retainers and adjusters...).

If you broke the hex hub, i don't recommend to buy the #54406, better buy the original ones.

If you run in outdoor track, use durango boots to protect diffs (thanks to kidcongo for this tip!!),


This is a great post, I hope everybody give their tips and recommendations!


Best regards

taomo

what kind of undertray are you using? if you using one?
i dont see the normal transparent plastic one.

thanks
eran

[SiR_Dave]

It looks to be a black painted 511/502x under tray. . . ..?