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#1
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Whats the best method to remove a rounded grub screw in a drive shaft without damaging parts?
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#2
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I've got them out before with a 2.5mm LH thread tap.
You might get one on ebay.
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www.facebook.com/racewayone RACEWAYONE :: LMR :: MIBOSPORT :: RC CONCEPT :: SMD Trader Feedback: http://oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=81070 |
#3
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me personally ive had great success by hitting the nearest size torque in there.i have a selection of torque bits,as the sides of the torque bits are sharper they tend to 'cut' or 'dig' in and stay in enough to loosen it off
like these http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...20-T25-T30.jpg hope this helps good luck
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#4
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- For Dirt and rust, soak the piece in WD-40 or penetrating oil for a few days. It might not work in all cases, but it can't harm to give it a shot. - For Threadlock, I'd recommend heating the cross-joint so the threadlock burns/disintegrates. Heating up the steel may undo it's heat treatment, so I can't guarantee it won't affect the durability of the driveshaft. - For CA glue, I'd recommend soaking in acetone. Also, is the cross-joint easy available? And would it harm to have a small slot in there? You might be able to use a cutting disc of a Dremel: If it's worn down the diameter is nice and small, and should barely cut into the shaft or axle, and only into the screw and cross-joint. Lastly, an alternative might be to drill a hole into the center of the grub screw. It will weaken it, so if you can somehow still apply a rotational force the screw may collapse/disintegrate. If that doesn't work, you could try to drill it out further until it falls apart without additional force, or up to 2.5mm so you can perhaps tap out the grub screw material? ![]() |
#5
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#6
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Try an imperial 1/16 driver if you have one, it's just a touch bigger than 1.5mm and has got me out of trouble loads of time
__________________
Sworkz S350 BE1 EU - Tekin RX8 G2 - Tekin T8 G2 1900kv - Xpert SI-4531 BLS Yokomo B-Max2 MR ver2 Factory - Vampire SR1 - Vampire Type AB+ v2 7.5t - Savox SC1251 TLR 8ight T 2.0 Tekno - Tekin RX8 G2 - Tekin T8 G2 1700kv - Savox SA1283SG TLR SCTE 2.0 - Tekin RX8 G2 - Tekin Pro4 4600kv - Xpert SI-3401 BLS LC Racing EMB-1 & EMB-SC Sanwa MT4 Intellect & Gens Ace Powered |
#7
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If you have any bite left in the hex part of the grub screw you could try some heat, it will expand the metal around the screw a little and also break down thredlock etc. For Rc a heat gun is just the job as they get bloody hot, heat the shaft,yes the screw will get hot but the shaft will get hotter than the screw in it.
I agree with torx as if you can hammer one in then use heat….heat works wonders on seized bolts…drive shaft should be ideal as it's all metal
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Dave www.norfolkbuggyclub.moonfruit.com kyosho optima,Bosscat,Boomerang,,RB5 Vega,RB7,,RC12 5.2, TLR22-4,MP9,HB807T Flask of tea & a rollup Anglia model centre & CT Models http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28117 |
#8
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if you can not apply direct heat from a torch use a soldering iron, just rest it on the screw for a while until it get hot, you can also use a imperial Allen key, drills are the last resort unless you have a pillar drill and some good drills.
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#9
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Soak it in penetrating oil, get a snug fitting driver, heat up with hot air gun and then try to break the stiction.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#10
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If you want to use heat, try a turbo lighter, the one i have is rated to 1300 deg C.
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#11
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It's from a used car ive picked up for a project, the other driveshaft grub screw came out easily, this one was rounded from the get go.
I've not got a driver or bit that will fit in snug, hoping to get hold of a torx bit to fit. the smallest ive got is T10 which is too big. |
#12
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Many good methods already listed but you can also try using a small pin punch to peen the end of the grub screw back other around the hex, this has worked for me quite a few times.
If all else fails I'm afraid you will have to drill it out, just remember you don't have to go very fast for a good drill bit to work, even 100rpm is enough. You can cut most things with a HSS drill bit just use some lubricant like oil or even WD40. If HSS drill bits are too soft you can re-sharpen a masonry bit to be like a normal drill bit and it should work. |
#13
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Top advice, got me out of a hole last night ![]() |
#14
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Nice one, glad to be of help for once
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__________________
Sworkz S350 BE1 EU - Tekin RX8 G2 - Tekin T8 G2 1900kv - Xpert SI-4531 BLS Yokomo B-Max2 MR ver2 Factory - Vampire SR1 - Vampire Type AB+ v2 7.5t - Savox SC1251 TLR 8ight T 2.0 Tekno - Tekin RX8 G2 - Tekin T8 G2 1700kv - Savox SA1283SG TLR SCTE 2.0 - Tekin RX8 G2 - Tekin Pro4 4600kv - Xpert SI-3401 BLS LC Racing EMB-1 & EMB-SC Sanwa MT4 Intellect & Gens Ace Powered |
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