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  #1  
Old 29-08-2013
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OneKiwi OneKiwi is offline
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Default Servo arm/horn for MR2

I can't seem to see if yokomo has their original form servo arm in alu for a Hitec 24 tooth?
Or am I missing something?

What are you guys using for servo arms?
Do the racers edge one fit? Hope so they look good

Anyone tried the hudy one or is that too long?

I think it would be cool and I think its open for someone to do is the original one that has the servo saver in it done in alu.

Now that I am looking I see that hudy and Hpi do an offset one. Anyone got these?



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Old 29-08-2013
mes mes is offline
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I am currently using an old Team Losi servo arm on my Sanwa ERG-RZ, which was originally intended for the 8ight and there's plenty of room. Most probably I'll switch to a Yokomo-blue Square servo arm when I order the next time, which is similar in offset to the plastic assembly.
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Old 29-08-2013
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The yokomo horns listed for bmax2 on mb's site do not fit. The horn is too long to fit under the bulkhead. I bough one, as I wanted to replace the kit servo saver. Not found anything to fit, without potentially grinding it short.
I'd originally built the kit saver in fixed (No spring) mode, but had problems. Not had any more problems since I built it with the spring as a saver.
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  #4  
Old 29-08-2013
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What abouth the Kyosho one?

I have 1 lying around so will give it a try this weekend.
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  #5  
Old 29-08-2013
mes mes is offline
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I've had the screw coming loose repeatedly with the servo saver, and therefore switched to the aluminum servo horn. Works perfectly for me!
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Old 29-08-2013
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I'm using the standard one without the servo saver without problems but put a little threadlock on the screw.
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  #7  
Old 29-08-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mes View Post
I've had the screw coming loose repeatedly with the servo saver, and therefore switched to the aluminum servo horn. Works perfectly for me!
Which one? Please post a photo.
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Team Yokomo - YZ-2CAL3 | YZ-2DTM3 | YZ-4SF2 | YZ-2T | YZ-2DTM Worlds | YZ-2DTM x2 | YRX-12 x2
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10electric | Batley Buggy Club | YORCC | RHR | MB Models
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  #8  
Old 29-08-2013
mes mes is offline
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Parts No. LOSA99031 for KO/Airtronics, also available for Futaba (LOSA99032) and Hitec (LOSA99033). Imperial threads, but nothing a tap couldn't fix.
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  #9  
Old 29-08-2013
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Well I ordered a couple of the racers edge 3 hole ones. I have tried the losi 22 one and its too short, it maxes out my EPAs
The little longer one might work

I think you need the hole at about 18-20mm from the servo
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  #10  
Old 29-08-2013
mes mes is offline
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End points had to be adjusted with the above configuration, but were well within the limits. With the ERG-RZ, I had to adjust end points with the original arm, too.
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  #11  
Old 29-08-2013
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Ok a Losi one. Thanks MES.

The Yok ones:
#B7-204F - Yokomo Aluminum Servo horn (for FUTABA servo)
#B7-204SK - Yokomo Aluminum Servo horn (for Airtonics/KO servo)
are too long.

I kept loosing the threadlocked screw with the kit plastic saver configured with no spring (fixed). Has been fine since I configured it with the spring as a saver, but would pref a direct fixed horn. It's the only part I'd complain about with the kit.
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-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Team Yokomo - YZ-2CAL3 | YZ-2DTM3 | YZ-4SF2 | YZ-2T | YZ-2DTM Worlds | YZ-2DTM x2 | YRX-12 x2
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
10electric | Batley Buggy Club | YORCC | RHR | MB Models
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  #12  
Old 29-08-2013
cryer-evo cryer-evo is offline
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I'm running kit arm no spring but longer screw with a toch of tamiya blue thread lock
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  #13  
Old 04-09-2013
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I got the racers edge 3 hole non clamping one, works well, I needed to sand a very little amount from the inside upper bulkhead and a tiny bit on the ball cup.
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