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I have had front wheels come off three times now, i am using B44 front wheels and fast-track nylock nuts but it is getting a bit annoying. Any tips for keeping the wheels on?
and yes, I am tighetening the nuts before the race... N |
#2
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i got an idea. dont race and clean the car an put it in a case on the fire place :P
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#3
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Ive seen this happen to a couple of them. Im sure you'll get some better advice but you could always try the hot bodies serrated wheel nuts. Not cheap though at a fiver for 4
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#4
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Aren't they metric though Dave?
Mine's not lost a wheel during a race but I did strip a hex when one came loose. Since replacing the nuts and tightening afer every run it seems to be ok, that's using the standard AE nuts though. They do seem to need replacing more often than I expected. Sorry I can't help more, |
#5
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I could well be chatting out of my arse then. The HB nuts fitted the 501, not sure if they are imperial or metric, just ignore me, I will go back to bed
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#6
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![]() Maybe my nuts are just getting old ![]() |
#7
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#8
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How often have they been on and off the car? Mine lasted three meetings, and had been removed about 7 or 8 times. I now try to leave the wheels on between runs unless I really have to remove them, just to try and get a bit more life out of them |
#9
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I had the same problem and it was causing many DNFs, particularly on tracks requiring heavy braking.
I changed to the losi nuts, but this didn't solve it. in the end, I resorted to threadlocking the nut onto the shaft - if done correctly, this 'thickens' up the thread on the outdrive, creating more friction between the nut and the shaft. this techical solution was bought to you in association with 'carry on doctor' ![]() |
#10
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I've wondered if it's been down to braking, I hardly ever brake so could that be why I've not experienced the problem as much as others.
How about you Neil? |
#11
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did you try tightening the nut onto the axle wit the wheel off?had this happen to me and one of the other racers at the club suggested this.the reasoning behind it is that when you first tighten the nut on with a wheel on,it doesnt thread the nylon of the nut properly as it just pushes it out.if you tighten it without the wheel it allows the thread to come all of the way thru.the guy tried it himself after losing a few wheels and so far hasnt lost any.going to give it atry myself.
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#12
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![]() ![]() but there silver |
#14
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he problem is the nut on this style front end doesn't go into 'safety' so if your nuts are nice and nipped up and new(ish) the vibration undoes them.
Craig is right, get some automotive threadlock, drop on the thread after you slip the wheel on, then put nut on, nip it up, jobs a good un, I had the same thing on the Tamiya.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#15
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Jconcept nuts are the shizzle
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#16
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That's strange, I've never had an issue of my wheels coming off
except on the rear, the rear wheel would come loose causing the rear rim to begin to strip out the pin holes. Is this the same thing this guy is having? Because I had that problem once before also. I just switched the wheel nuts out for new ones. And when you use new nuts you might as well, replace the wheel pins also. Replacing the wheel pins solved my problem.
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Associated B44, Tamiya 501x Worlds Edition Losi XX-4 finished project TRF 201(coming soon) |
#17
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Gareth Stanton |
#18
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whenever i read a post from b mag
i'm finding myself wondering just how big his window must be sized, as he keeps using the enter key on each line or something ![]() |
#19
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Hidden in there was actually some sound advice apart from the wheel pin thing
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#20
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It's called premature enterkeyation :-)
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