Go Back   oOple.com Forums > Car Talk > Schumacher

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-03-2013
Tobamory Tobamory is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pudsey Leeds
Posts: 246
Default K1 first drive slippidge

Ok chaps not an expert but i managed to get all the stuff in the car.

Couple of questions really.

When i accelerate the car gains speed slowly, as though something is slipping, where do i start to look, im presuming diffs at back and front need tighting? or would it be the large center gear that the motor fastens to ?

Also could anybody show me there insides, i just want to get a view of where youve stuck ya ESC etc. Id also like to see how your batt look.

Im going direct into batt with bullet, but the joining leads needs some work as at present its a bit of a faff to get in.

thanks
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-03-2013
James's Avatar
James James is offline
RHR RACING
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Worksop/Blyth Tracks Nottinghamshire
Posts: 2,457
Send a message via MSN to James
Default

If the car 'squarks' under acceleration the diff (probably rear) needs tightening, do this 1/8 of a turn at a time, if its more of whining noise the slipper clutch needs tightening, again 1/8 turn at a time until it stops.
__________________
~JAMES HELLIWELL~ROBIN HOOD RACEWAY~RHR DIRT~WORKSOP RACEWAY~BIRDS EYE VIEW~
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-03-2013
Tobamory Tobamory is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pudsey Leeds
Posts: 246
Default

James I've tightened the middle slipper to the max and its still the same.

So I guess back diff, any easy way to get to it, other than dismantle ?
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-03-2013
Andrew Twigger's Avatar
Andrew Twigger Andrew Twigger is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 317
Default

Both wheels off, outer turnbuckles off and then a 2mm driver into each outdrive. Is the diff action still smooth now that they've been slipping?
__________________
Trader Feedback
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 07-03-2013
James's Avatar
James James is offline
RHR RACING
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Worksop/Blyth Tracks Nottinghamshire
Posts: 2,457
Send a message via MSN to James
Default

Just take a wheel off and pop the balljoint on the screw head side.
__________________
~JAMES HELLIWELL~ROBIN HOOD RACEWAY~RHR DIRT~WORKSOP RACEWAY~BIRDS EYE VIEW~
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 07-03-2013
Tobamory Tobamory is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pudsey Leeds
Posts: 246
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Andrew Twigger View Post
Both wheels off, outer turnbuckles off and then a 2mm driver into each outdrive. Is the diff action still smooth now that they've been slipping?
When I spin one wheel other doesn't turn, so I think your right I'm gonna go try now

I'm presuming if its too slack it doesn't work well.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 07-03-2013
Andrew Twigger's Avatar
Andrew Twigger Andrew Twigger is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 317
Default

Sounds like it's not tight enough. If you set the diff tension as per the manual, I would suspect it has come undone, as it shouldn't slip. The key to setting the tension is to tighten the diff screw (once the tension is as desired) and the setting screw (in the opposite outdrive) against one another at the same time. There's no way it'll come undone if it was tightened in this way.
__________________
Trader Feedback
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 07-03-2013
Tobamory Tobamory is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pudsey Leeds
Posts: 246
Default

Ok so I've tightened the diffs at both sides front and back, I've also tightend the slip in the middle. Tight as I can

If I put my foot on the car I can throttle away and it stands still, doesn't try to drive away

Any ideas
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 07-03-2013
Andrew Twigger's Avatar
Andrew Twigger Andrew Twigger is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 317
Default

Can you describe what happens when you try to accelerate?

Are you sure your pinion/spur mesh is correct? If the mesh is too loose then the pinion will tear the spur teeth straight off.
__________________
Trader Feedback
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 07-03-2013
Tobamory Tobamory is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pudsey Leeds
Posts: 246
Default

If I accelerate the belts spin and the car gradually gains speed, as though I was on ice.

If I put my, foot In front of the car and accelerate the car stands still no real anger to claw my leg off, the belt spins and speed and I can see it go faster as I accelerate so that's working

I've just checked the back diff, and I can't tighten it anymore.

A bit like a clutch slipping on a proper car
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 07-03-2013
Andrew Twigger's Avatar
Andrew Twigger Andrew Twigger is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 317
Default

So now when you turn a single wheel by hand front and rear, the wheel on the other side turns in the opposite direction?

If your diffs are ok and your mesh is ok, then the only other possibilities are that the belts are too loose and are slipping on the pulleys, or you left the drive pins out of the driveshafts
__________________
Trader Feedback
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 07-03-2013
mark christopher's Avatar
mark christopher mark christopher is offline
Spends too long on oOple ...
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: haxey, doncaster
Posts: 7,787
Send a message via MSN to mark christopher
Default

Do your belts and pullies still have any teeth on them? If so your diffs are wrong, you have unwound the locking screw before you adjusted them?
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 07-03-2013
Tobamory Tobamory is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pudsey Leeds
Posts: 246
Default

If I lift the car off the floor it accelerates like it should.

I think it's most probably the diff, but I can't get my head round it's as tight as I can get it but yet seems to slip.

Any resistance ie on the floor my foot and it slips
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 07-03-2013
Andrew Twigger's Avatar
Andrew Twigger Andrew Twigger is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 317
Default

As Mark suggested, you need to back the 'lock' screw off before trying to tighten the diff. The lock screw side is the one with the orange o ring in it.
__________________
Trader Feedback
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 07-03-2013
Tobamory Tobamory is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pudsey Leeds
Posts: 246
Default

Guys I've done it

I'm was being special, I back tracked and remembered what you said above, I was probably tightening the wrong screw which of course has a negative effect on the other.

I check it loosened the lock screw tightened the diff then back an eighth and its wheel spinning all over the kitchen

Appreciate the feedback and sorry for being a noob,

Any of you mind showing me how your insides look I'm hanging fun laying the wires and wanted some ideas
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 07-03-2013
Andrew Twigger's Avatar
Andrew Twigger Andrew Twigger is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 317
Default

There's a couple in here.
__________________
Trader Feedback
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 08-03-2013
Tobamory Tobamory is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pudsey Leeds
Posts: 246
Default

thanks Andrew.

Whilst i have you could you advise on what spares one would buy to cater for raceing, as in common break points, i know wishbones can be prone as always.

I also saw a few people comment that the front suspension brace the fibreglass upright snaps, any advice on either a stronger version or modifications to stop this ?
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 08-03-2013
Andrew Twigger's Avatar
Andrew Twigger Andrew Twigger is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 317
Default

Essential spares:

Front and rear wishbones
Rear hubs
Inner hingepins
Front yokes
Suspension block set
Front bumper set

I changed the gearbox tops, suspension blocks F&R and steering yokes to alloy when I built the car. I would say the alloy front gearbox tops are essential. The others the standard ones are fine.

Nice to have:

Outer hingepins
Shock shafts
Front and rear shock towers
Turnbuckles
Ball grippas
Wheel bearings
Screws

Haven't broken anything myself yet so can't comment on the front shock tower. Wes Jolly will do you a front shock tower protector for a very reasonable price if you message him. It just helps stop the shocks digging into the ground when you crash.
__________________
Trader Feedback
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 08-03-2013
Tobamory Tobamory is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Pudsey Leeds
Posts: 246
Default

thanks Andrew

where would i buy upgrades like the gerabox stuff etc. just surfed but cant see any shops with them
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 08-03-2013
mark christopher's Avatar
mark christopher mark christopher is offline
Spends too long on oOple ...
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: haxey, doncaster
Posts: 7,787
Send a message via MSN to mark christopher
Default

here http://www.rccarshop.co.uk/index.php...html?limit=all
__________________
MBModels - Schumacher Racing - Vapextech.co.uk - MRT - Savox - SMD
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 04:54 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
oOple.com