No steering on high bite carpet track (X-6)

[everlast]

Hi guys.

I need some advise on how to get more steering into my X-6. I read thru a lot of threads in this forum and you get always different answers. Long wheelbase, short wb for example. Here is what I have in my X-6:

I run 6 cells (side-by-side)!! (Dont want to change that)
6.5 Turn motor
4- gear tranny
AE shocks. Front: WT40, piston #2, blue spring; Rear: WT60, piston #2, silver spring.
Micro pins in the rear and stagger rib up front.
I changed the ride hight in the rear a bit up, to get the weight transfered to the front.
All that didnt help a lot. The car still doesnt turn in as sharp as my B4 used to. Exiting a corner is even worse....

Do you have any advise?


Frank

[ben]

Dont own an X6 but their is alot more weight centrally in the X6 so the mid motored cars generally tend not to get as much steering as the B4. Id try going down to 35wt in the front shocks.
And id definatley go down to 30 wt in the rear shocks. 60wt sounds far to hard.
HTH

ben

[bigred5765]

I'm afraid to say it ,but your cells across the chassis is probably the main cause.
if you run them 4x2 format things will change, and the set ups people are giving you most probably work better, see my site in the downloads section for more info.
espeed alloy rear hangers also help loads
and i have to admit losi shocks are better

[Big E]

Right all these things will help with steering.
ESpeed rear hangers, pretty much a must actually.
Rear roll bar
Low gearbox height
long wheelbase
short link on the rear hub.
Front wing
Front camber link long on the tower and short (inside) on the castor block.
Raise the inner front link up by around 4 washers
If the track is flat run the rear shocks middle or outside hole on the arm.
Front shocks inner hole on the arm.
Inline axles

These things will get it to steer just how many of them you need is just dependant on the track. Also have you not thought of running minipins on the front?? Might be worth a go.

You will get it to steer, the thing is we have loads of traction and when it is a grippy track it can sometimes be too much so you just have to tweak it to get rid of it but it can be done.

E.

[markwilliamson2001]

I have to say that your main problem will be running stagger ribs on the front. You might want to try schumacher yellow minipins all round before trying anything else as this will give you lots more steering, especially inside.

Mark

[telboy]

Snap mark, thats what I was going to say.
Ribs on most surfaces won't be as good a minipins/spikes.

[YoungChazz]

Everything said above is correct. Ellis' car was sooo dialled last year in Belgium -- E knows what he's doing.

I'll not repeat the whole of my post to TelBoy on cells. If you insist on 6 across, you defeat the entire engineering concept of the car. Of course it won't work...

[ben]

youngchazz. Is the 6 cell slot accross the back of the chassis just there for the use of lipo?

ben

[super__dan]

Chaps, there are places where staggers work well. However when you just can't get enough out of them a set of yellow mini's with the inside and outside rows cut off is the next step up for physical grip.

Ditto on not running 4+2 on nimh's, sorry

[Paul_Sinclair]

Originally Posted by ben

youngchazz. Is the 6 cell slot accross the back of the chassis just there for the use of lipo?

ben

That's what we put it there for, yes.

[Chrislong]

I presume you are running staggered ribs as its such a high bite surface - such as Belgium..

The natural thing to do, is go to Minispikes on the front (Schumacher or GRP, GRP seem to steer without it being OTT), then if still more is needed - go to Minipins.

Do try all the things listed by Ellis. Starting with 4+2 cell layout.

If you need 3+3 for 4wd, then look into doing a 3+1+2 cell build so they can be fitted in the X-6 as a 4+2 and used in your 4wd as a 3+3..

Chris

[bigred5765]

good point on the cells chris
i forgot about that from the other thread
321 is the way to do it as im sure tel will tell ya lol

[ben]

you should see a couple of packs of my cells i am using in the S2 i am borrowing and my S4. They are 2x1x1x2 There is Alot of wire on them lol

[ben]

Originally Posted by Paul_Sinclair

That's what we put it there for, yes.

ok thanks paul

[everlast]

@ all

Thx a lot for all the tips. I tried mini pins allready, but it didnt help that much. It feels like that the frontend is almost "in the air". As soon as I hit the throttle just a bit, steering is gone.
So I will hack up my cells and do the math with 4+2. I will also try my lipo across the chassis. Everybody else on the track runs staggered up front and has lots of steering, and they run 5 cells (3+2). Again, thanks a lot....

FJ

[telboy]

Is it something simple like the slipper clutch? If it feels up in the air when you hit the power it could be that?
Or turn the throttle down a bit so its not as punchy?

[mattym0310]

ignore

[gps3300]

Originally Posted by Big E

Right all these things will help with steering.

Raise the inner front link up by around 4 washers

E.

Am I understanding this right? I thought putting washers under the front inner ball stud decreased steering? I'm confused

Even had to look it up in the B4 manual:

FRONT CAMBER LINKS
Shortening the
camber link (or lowering the ball end) will
give the front end less roll and quicken
steering response. Lengthening the camber
link (or raising the ball end) will give the front
more roll and slower steering response.
Longer camber links are typically used
on high grip tracks and shorter links tend to

work better on med-grip loose tracks.