ZX5 FS2 SP

[slow coach]

Just wondering if there is a tunning guide to the zx5, like what settings it has in kit form rear toe in caster etc and what the options would change it to, after building the MP9 TKI2 and seeing the useful setting guide that comes with that car it was a bit of a dissapoinment to find no information for the ZX5, any info would be appreciated

[Andyp]

Hi slow coach , they is loads of info on the petit Rc setup page just scroll down to the kyosho section

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/SetupSheetDataBase.htm


HTH

[RogerM]

The ZX5-FS2(sp) doesn't do anything odd at all, all the adjustments do exactly what you would expect. My only warning is that the car is very responsive to setup changes so small steps can make big differences on the track ... take it easy.
The car generates a lot of both rear traction and steering so nothing radical needed, just throw it down and enjoy it

If there is anything specific then shout and we'll do our best to explain.

[slow coach]

thanks for the links thats exactly what i needed, I have just built the sp kit and followed the manual but had no idea what i was setting it as and what the inserts would do as there is none of that within the manual.

one further question what pinion for a GM 6.5t with dualsky 850 ESC im guessing the kit offering will be a bit undergeared, our track is small a few jumps but not many and normally in the summer dry and very dusty (not this year yet mind) kit spur gear.

Cheers

[adon30]

Try a 22 or 23t to begin with and see how it goes.

[slow coach]

OK test time, so if im correct and i hope i am the sp is built kit setting with 2.5 deg rear toe in, also am i right that depending on the suspension bushes used you also change the rear track width so for example the kit is

front BB in, rear EE out, 2.5 toe in with a wide rear track (Max track for 2.5 being AA/FF out)

if i changed to front FF in, Rear AA, i would get the same Toe but reduce the rear track width by approx 3mm thats a quick guess mind you but hopefully near enough correct.

just getting my head round it at the moment, will move on to anti squat and kick up later on lol

cheers for now Jason

[slow coach]

Originally Posted by adon30

Try a 22 or 23t to begin with and see how it goes.

cheers

sorry should of also mentioned we run LIPO and normally try and get 2 runs out a pack, we are a small club with normally a dozen or so racing and i just cannot justify the cost of extra packs at the moment, just got some new ones GM 5600 60C i think, would this make the 2X 5 minute runs ok

[adon30]

If you have the option you can also reduce your throttle max to 80-90%. That way you never actually use throttle (especially if you don't need it on a small track) and will also increase your battery life. You can also reduce any boost or timing on your speedo (I'm no expert on your one).

[RogerM]

The toe inserts are approx 0.33mm steps (IIRC the step from A to B is 0.35) so a step of 3, say A to D would narrow the rear track by 1mm per side.

I personally tend to run the car 1 step narrower than the instructions (sorry car isn't in front of me nor the instruction) as that allows me to run up to 3.5deg rear toe without having to remove the front inserts, which is rear trans case out.
I typically run 2.5-3.0 deg but on the odd occasion the step to 3.5 is helpful.

[slow coach]

had a small issue with the front center driveshaft being pushed back into the slipper unit and getting stuck there which disengaged the front drive, is this normal and is it best to place some fuel tube or an o ring to space the shaft better between the diff and slipper outdrives, tbh im not really sure how it happened but if i can prevent it from happenening again that would be good.

apart from that the first run was very good I think I may of built the shocks over damped although the front felt good on the bench the rears felt way stiffer even though they were 100cst softer in the oil, it didnt seem to hurt the car to much but perhaps a softer set up might of generated more grip as it was very dusty and grip was at a premium.

last bit, was running boost on the esc with a 6.5 motor but when it came in down the straight the car sounded like it was slipping but not sure if it was diff or slipper clutch letting go, not sure if i should increase the total rpm in the software and reduce the boost to reduce the extreme kick it gives the car at full throttle without losing top speed, on the gearing in there without the boost it was not overly fast down the straight and would of struggled to keep up with the faster cars.

cheers jason

[hloland]

You have probably forgotten the white plastic part in the slipper. Same part as in the diffes. This is to prevent the axle to move.

[slow coach]

yep didnt even spot that bit on the build thanks

[RogerM]

That will be it .... funny enough I've had 2 people PM me in the last week asking about excessive front prop movement. Once you point that part out it jumps of the instructions page but seems to be missed by many until it is pointed out by somebody.

As a starting point for the diffs and slipper I usually suggest the following;

1) adjust rear diff until it feels right / doesn't slip easily
2) adjust front diff to a fraction tighter than the rear
3) adjust slipper so that when holding the spur and a wheel whilst rotating the other wheel on that axle the slipper only just slips.

This will have everything in a 'safe' range to start tuning to your tastes.

The Lazer is super sensitive to diff & slipper tuning, something to do with it's near perfect balance and how it shares it's drive front to rear very evenly I'm guessing.

[slow coach]

is it totally necessary to run ballast in the rear spine of the ZX5 for all tracks or not

[RogerM]

No, but it is a very useful tuning aid.

Personally I run the RudeBits weight kit, the new 2 piece one. I quite often swap between the 0g/30g/60g options it gives

Typically I run 60g on astro tracks, reduce to 30g if the car is over-rotating late corner in a pendulum style. 0g works great on tight twisty tracks where the surface is a little loose (along with a little less front tire of course)

[slow coach]

Whats with the NCG arms are they worth the extra

[Peakki]

Originally Posted by slow coach

Whats with the NCG arms are they worth the extra

Well the rear ones are more fragile than normal arms.
Actually, I've drilled and dremeled normal arms so the alu part can be bolted to those. These dremel versions seem to be holding better?

NCG rear arms are fragile around the inner screw hole of the alu plate mounting.

NCG front arms should be stronger than the normal ones, but haven't tested...

[RogerM]

Originally Posted by slow coach

Whats with the NCG arms are they worth the extra

They improve the cars already impressive corner speed capabilities, I'd not run without them these days.

I have broken 1 rear arm ... but the wall I was thrown into suffered more damage, won't consider them weak at all.

[dibble34]

I have broken several of these Ncg rear arms during high speed rolls and they always break in the area of the bracket. Definitely weaker than normal ones for me

[slow coach]

just after some knowledge, have built the shocks twice now and both times it always feels like the rear is harder damped than the front even though i have gone softer oil in the rear, my first build was to stiff so i changed to losi oils this time 32.5 front 30 rear, i know have the front feeling more supple but the rear still feels a bit stiff, i am running kit springs out the box and wont have options for a bit yet so cannot change, im seriously considering swapping the rear for 25 losi oil to try that and see if it feels any better, is there something im doing wrong im building the shocks with little to no rebound and they feel ok in the hand and rebound equally between the rears am i just still to heavy in the rear??