New Lazer FS2 owner!

[kaszal]

I've nearly finished rebuilding my second-hand Lazer FS2. I'm not familiar with Kyosho and I have a few questions below. Forgive me if these are already answered elsewhere, please post a link if you have time.

1. Is it normal for the rear springs to rub on the cylinder? I'm using new springs and the shock bodies don't appear particularly worn. The fronts are super smooth.

2. What's the easiest way to adjust the slipper when assembled? There's not much room in there!

3. There's quite a bit of lateral weight imbalance e.g. on the right there's the motor, receiver and transponder (196g) and on the left there's the servo and speed controller (86g) That's 110g difference. I realise this is a rough figure because I haven't considered the distances from the centre line. I'm tempted to add a block of brass by the speed controller.

4. Are the 3-Racing turnbuckle mounts (link below) a direct replacement or are different spacers needed on the camber links?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3racing-Al...item3a7838593f

Thanks for any help provided. Photos to follow.

[Adam F]

1. Is it normal for the rear springs to rub on the cylinder? I'm using new springs and the shock bodies don't appear particularly worn. The fronts are super smooth - I have seen it before on mine but never caused a problem.

2. What's the easiest way to adjust the slipper when assembled? There's not much room in there! I use pliers or a small smaller and then roll the car.

3. There's quite a bit of lateral weight imbalance e.g. on the right there's the motor, receiver and transponder (196g) and on the left there's the servo and speed controller (86g) That's 110g difference. I realise this is a rough figure because I haven't considered the distances from the centre line. I'm tempted to add a block of brass by the speed controller. Guess this depends on your electrics, never had any imbalance problems on mine, but never weighed it.

4. Are the 3-Racing turnbuckle mounts (link below) a direct replacement or are different spacers needed on the camber links? I believe they are the same, Kev Lee (inside line also sells them and uses them in his own car so would know for certain.)

[RogerM]

Originally Posted by kaszal

I've nearly finished rebuilding my second-hand Lazer FS2. I'm not familiar with Kyosho and I have a few questions below. Forgive me if these are already answered elsewhere, please post a link if you have time.

1. Is it normal for the rear springs to rub on the cylinder? I'm using new springs and the shock bodies don't appear particularly worn. The fronts are super smooth.

2. What's the easiest way to adjust the slipper when assembled? There's not much room in there!

3. There's quite a bit of lateral weight imbalance e.g. on the right there's the motor, receiver and transponder (196g) and on the left there's the servo and speed controller (86g) That's 110g difference. I realise this is a rough figure because I haven't considered the distances from the centre line. I'm tempted to add a block of brass by the speed controller.

4. Are the 3-Racing turnbuckle mounts (link below) a direct replacement or are different spacers needed on the camber links?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3racing-Al...item3a7838593f

Thanks for any help provided. Photos to follow.

1) I've not noticed Kyosho springs rubbing on Kyosho shock bodies but the body threads are a little larger diameter than say AE so if you use non Kyosho springs it can be very noticiable. Because I've not noticed it doesn't mean it can't happen of course.

2) Best way to adjust the slipper is to use a 7mm spanner from above to hold the nut (let the spanner rest against the topdeck) and then adjust by turning the REAR wheels. Always worked well for me.

3) I've managed to get my Futaba BLS551 servo , Spektrum 3500 Rx, Orion R10pro ESC along with all of it's capacitors etc. & the PT on top of the servo without issue. This gives me something like 5-10g to fit to balance the car side to side. I often run the PT on the topdeck though as I swap that between cars and the wiring works out easier to keep away from the rotating parts if I do that.

4) The 3 racing mounts work well, although I've not got them myself as yet I know a few who have. I run the big bore shocks all the time these days so would miss the 2nd middle hole so doubt they will find the way onto the front of my car.
If you fit them I remend putting a drop of threadlock down the holes and leaving it to go off over night before screwing the ball studs in... helps prevent the ball studs coming loose without making them hard to remove.

[hloland]

[ATTACH]IMG_0501.jpg[/ATTACH]
The motor is closer to the senter off the car compared to the servo and esc.
As you can see on the picture there is only 1-2 grams difference side to side. (840-841)
There are no weights in this car...

[kaszal]

Thank you all for your replies. The spring rubbing does bother me as the rest of the car goes to together so well. I'll show it to someone next time I'm at the track. Here are few photos of the build...

[kaszal]

Nearly done! Here's a list of a few hop-ups and mods...

I'm also thinking Schumacher ball cups on the bottom of the rear shocks would be more practical.

Vega steering link
Kyosho carbon-fibre top deck
30g home-made brass weight between saddle packs
3-Racing alloy turnbuckle mounts and bearing housings
B-Fast flattened diff plates
Buds ceramic balls for diffs and thrust bearings
Buds rubber-sealed ball bearings
Kyosho carbon composite shock towers and some HD ball cups

Diffs run in with electric screwdriver then in car on bench
Servo, receiver and transponder wires shortened with crimping kit
Grub screws in unused camber links on hub carriers (see photo)
Spacers inserted to strengthen rear wishbones (see photo)
Wheels balanced

[kaszal]

[slow coach]

just be careful putting the receiver behind the motor like that i had a thermal shutdown last race which was remedied when i moved the receiver from behind the motor, might not happen for you but it might

[kaszal]

What's the internal ratio for the FS2 and what's a good starting ratio for an 8.5T round Stotfold astro turf track?

Cheers

[RogerM]

Internal ratio = 2.5:1

I run a 25 (no turbo) or 23 (turbo) on Orion 6.5vst & +2 teeth on both for a 7.5 ... not tried 8.5 in the Lazer but would probably go another +2 teeth and work from there so that would be 29 (no turbo) or 27 (turbo) as a starting point.

I am easy on motors though so don't get them too hot so might be worth starting 1 tooth below my recomendations if your agressive on the throttle.

[kaszal]

A few little mods I thought I'd share...

1. Wishbones reinforced with M3x5 nylon spacers - less rigid than alloy
2. Fan installed to cool electronics - angled to increase circulation
3. Axial motor screw mounts
4. Unused servo mount holes plugged with screws

[RogerM]

Looking good but may I suggest for maximum increase in durability you may want to move the screw & spacer in the rear wishbones to the outer wishbone hole.

[kaszal]

Thanks Roger, will do.

Can you suggest what oils I could run for the Stotfold Winter Series?

I'm running Kev's setup with 2C pistons front and 3A rear.

It gets quite chilly (5 degrees and below) and I understand you need to use thinner oils.

[Dazzieboy]

Looks like we are both gonna be residing in here now Luke, I've just bought a ZX5 too though not an FS. The Procat is looking rather sorry for itself now but it will be out again at some point probably in vintage class

[RogerM]

Can't help with oils for small bores, been years since I've run them. I did a LOT of work with the big bores when they first came out & made such a big step forward in bump handling of the car going back to small bores feels like you have replaced the oils with concrete!

[kaszal]

Originally Posted by Dazzieboy

Looks like we are both gonna be residing in here now Luke, I've just bought a ZX5 too though not an FS. The Procat is looking rather sorry for itself now but it will be out again at some point probably in vintage class

Me too, the Procat is only semi-retired for now... loving the Lazer though, much easier to drive.

[Adam F]

Originally Posted by kaszal

Can you suggest what oils I could run for the Stotfold Winter Series?

I'm running Kev's setup with 2C pistons front and 3A rear.

It gets quite chilly (5 degrees and below) and I understand you need to use thinner oils.

To be honest I always find Kevs setups already use fairly thin oil so I never go any lower. ( I run 40/30 pretty much everywhere)

I would stick with the small bores as I find the big bores make the car feel lazy. (Even my RB6 will going back to small bores and that was designed to use them.)

[RogerM]

Big bores can make the cars feel lazy if you just throw them on a car set up for small bores with no other changes. You need to change the balance of roll control between the chassis & the dampers.
What you end up with is a car that rides any bumps like they aren't there, changes direction like a frightened cat & crucially is MUCH easier to drive over 5mins so you go faster.
Over a single lap I personally am faster with big bores as they give me the confidence to get on & push where as the small bores need ultra precision & thus I find I can only push 90%

Nobody who has driven my lazer has found it lacking in agility!

[Dazzieboy]

Originally Posted by kaszal

Me too, the Procat is only semi-retired for now... loving the Lazer though, much easier to drive.

I would definitely agree, I pulled the guts out of my procat to put in the lazer so everything is the same apart from chassis and I was immediately faster. I didn't think it would make that much difference but it did.