Tlr 22 steering lock problem

[Gavin Collingwood]

I'm having problems get full lock left on my 22. My EPA is on 120% and still a bit short of full lock, the rod ends are Set to the length that was instructed in the manual and I have 0 deg toe ... Any ideas on how to solve this?
Gav

[Frecklychimp]

Try moving the servo horn one spline to the right, pretty sure i've had to do it on all 22 models.

[Gnarly Old Dog]

It is very critical on servo horn placement - especially if you are using a low profile servo but it is possible to achieve full lock.
I too have to mount the horn slightly offset toward the centreline of the car with my low profile servo and then I also have to run at 150% EPA on my Spektrum Tx.

Curiously I can turn the EPA down to 135% when I swap to the 4mm trailing axles and given that they yield a smoother steering response, you might find it beneficial to try these also.

HTH

[Robby]

Originally Posted by Frecklychimp

Try moving the servo horn one spline to the right, pretty sure i've had to do it on all 22 models.

[Gavin Collingwood]

So when the wheels are square, and looking from the rear of the car, the servo horn would be leaning right a little?

[Gnarly Old Dog]

No - one spline towards the centre of the chassis - which is viewed from above and the rear would be to the left.

If you are running a full size servo - you probably won't need to do this.

We have to do it with the low profile servos because their output is moved outboard as a by-product of the low profile gear-train in their housing.

On zero trim, my Spektrum S6070 won't achieve a completely vertical alignment becuase vertical sits between two splines.

I always then choose the spline that moves the output arm towards the centreline of the chassis as opposed to the one that moves it further outboard.

HTH

[Frecklychimp]

Originally Posted by Gavin Collingwood

So when the wheels are square, and looking from the rear of the car, the servo horn would be leaning right a little?

Sorry matey i wasn't very clear... i meant right or clockwise when looking from the front,

As Gnarly says, this moves the horn more central with chassis and should give you adjustment to be able to set equal full lock using transmitter parameters, although you may have different end point values for each side.

If you can't get the spindles to 100% hit the lock stops then consider that in motion the force on the wheel in cornering will give you a small amount of extra lock.

[Gavin Collingwood]

I'm running a full sized servo so will doing this help? Seems a bad design that it takes so much throw from the servo to reach full lock?

[Frecklychimp]

I'm guessing you haven't driven it yet?

The 22 has so much steering you shouldn't have to worry about the spindles hitting lock stops.

Nothing wrong with the design, will be fine when you get it set up, all cars need a tweak here and there as we all run different choices of electrical components... servo's are not standardised as such and different makes and models require different settings away from the instruction manual.

[Robby]

Originally Posted by Gavin Collingwood

I'm running a full sized servo so will doing this help? Seems a bad design that it takes so much throw from the servo to reach full lock?

It only appears that way because you're maxing out the throw one direction and not coming close to maxing it out (or pushing against the stop) the other direction. You're making it out to be a bigger deal than it really is.

As soon as you get it figured out it'll become much clearer, there's nothing wrong with the design - and the reality is that my servo hits the stops both sides at somewhere about 90% full travel (yours will too once you get it worked out). ... At the same time, under most circumstances I'm not using more than about 80-85% travel on most tracks.

[Gavin Collingwood]

I've had the car for a few months and raced it a 5 or six times on astro and yes I know how much steering the car has but I was wondering why it wouldn't go full lock only as recently I've raced indoors on a polished floor and struggled with understeer and wanted as much throw as possible

[freddie]

Hi the length of the link rod for steering can also make a difference from servo horn to steering rack on different servos

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Freddie makes a good point.
If it's problematic in one direction only - perhaps you can change the length of the drag link to help overcome the issue?

I have seen one case with a Futaba Tx whereby the Tx could not reach the appropriate EPA needed to max out the travel with a Low Profile Servo.

Agreed that it is very critical and ideally, a longer servo arm would probably overcome most ills but things are very snug in and around the front end.

I've not had a problem that I couldn't overcome with my Spektrum Tx and I know others with KOs also have no problem - but if your Tx doesn't or won't go to 150% throw then maybe you will find the lock you need by altering the drag link and offsetting the horn slightly on the spline.

Alternatively - as I said before, the 4mm trailing axles from the SCT will actually help overcome the issue whilst smoothing out the steering response at the same time - so it might be worth investigating these. I know many of the Team drivers like the added feel they get with the 4mm trailing axles.

[RDG 40]

Can we get those arms in plastic now is it tlr1107?

Would you always use these without the long link mod?

Any mod needed like removing washers etc?

[Robby]

Originally Posted by Gavin Collingwood

I've had the car for a few months and raced it a 5 or six times on astro and yes I know how much steering the car has but I was wondering why it wouldn't go full lock only as recently I've raced indoors on a polished floor and struggled with understeer and wanted as much throw as possible

If it was fine before and your problem only suddenly appeared, then that's not the car it's the problem with the servo.

I've had my 22s for well over a year, and after a little fiddling to get the throw even on both sides I've been running them ever since without an issue - one car for outdoors and another indoors.

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by RDG 40

Can we get those arms in plastic now is it tlr1107?

Would you always use these without the long link mod?

Any mod needed like removing washers etc?

Yes TLR1107 is the part number you need and yes, they are available now.

I've personally never used the long mod in any configuration so to answer your question - yes, I would always use these without the long mod - but I suspect maybe you need someone who uses the long mod to answer you properly - sorry

No further mod required. I run 2mm spacers under the ball studs on inside and on the 5 deg caster block. I also run on the inner position on the front bulkhead.

The only other thing I do is move the caster block shim to the front of the caster block. I like it that way

HTH

[Gavin Collingwood]

Right I'll have a fiddle and work it out. Cheers guys