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Old 18-09-2012
jameshealey jameshealey is offline
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Default Considering a defection to off road

Hi Guys,

I've raced RC for about a year now I've raced 12th Scale On Road and 10th Nitro Touring Cars previously.

I've been looking into classes supported locally compared to the travelling involved in going to my local rc circuit.

It seems 10th Off Road is the most popular, and as far as I'm concerned only 2WD interests me I much prefer the feel of 2WD cars and the lower maintenance (belts are a nightmare)

So what kits are good? the DEX210 and Cougar SVR look quite good and both are supported by my local hobby shop (MB Models).

It also appears there are less motor rules for off-road, so would something like a HPI Flux Pro 6.5T and a Speed Passion GT2.0LPF be suitable?

Also can someone explain slipper clutches to me.
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  #2  
Old 18-09-2012
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h0m3sy h0m3sy is offline
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What's the slipper clutch for and how do I adjust it?
All competition buggies and trucks have transmissions equipped with a slipper clutch. On a transmission without a slipper, the spur gear is keyed directly to the top shaft of the transmission, which drives the rear axles through a gear train and ball differential. On a slipper-equipped transmission, the connection of the spur gear to the top shaft is made through an adjustable friction coupling that allows some slippage.

The slipper, used correctly, both improves performance and reduces wear and tear on the transmission:

• The slipper reduces wheelspin as the car accelerates from low speeds, so the car accelerates faster and is less prone to spin out exiting turns on slick tracks. The slipper also gives more sure-footed landings after jumps, so the car handles rough sections and jumps better.

• The slipper reduces sudden forces on the inside of the transmission, especially on the ball differential.
The slipper is a fussy topic. It takes awhile to learn when to loosen the slipper and when to tighten it. Most beginners set the slipper too loose, which makes the car easier to drive but slower overall.

Before you start adjusting the slipper, you must double-check the diff adjustment. Remove the gear cover. Tighten the slipper all the way so it won't slip. Hold both the spur gear and the right rear tire with your right hand, and try to turn the left rear tire with your left hand. It should be quite hard to turn. If the left rear tire turns with moderate effort, with the transmission top shaft stationary as the left rear tire turns, tighten the diff and repeat.

Now loosen the slipper adjustment a few turns, hold both the spur gear and the right rear tire with your right hand, and turn the left rear tire with your left hand. It should not be extremely easy to turn the tire, but not be extremely hard to turn it, either. Fiddle the slipper adjustment to get it into the right ballpark.

Now put the car on the track pointing toward you. Press down on the car and punch the throttle on-off. Listen to that sound -- that's the slipper slipping. Feel how much forward drive the car has. If the forward drive is weak you need to tighten the slipper.

Keep the car on the track pointing toward you. Back away a couple of feet and punch the throttle on until you catch the car. The slipper sound should last only for about a foot -- it should stop before the car reaches you. (It takes practice to hear the slipper sound among all the other sounds, especially the sound of slipping tires.) If it slips more than this, tighten the slipper; if there is no slip at all, loosen it.

Go out and drive the car. If it is working well, bring it in and feel the adjustment again by turning the left tire. Learn how hard the tire is to turn. This will help you get closer to the right adjustment next time you have to adjust it from scratch.
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Old 18-09-2012
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peetbee peetbee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jameshealey View Post
So what kits are good? the DEX210 and Cougar SVR look quite good and both are supported by my local hobby shop (MB Models).

It also appears there are less motor rules for off-road, so would something like a HPI Flux Pro 6.5T and a Speed Passion GT2.0LPF be suitable?
The electrics would be fine, although the 6.5 will be a bit of a handful in a 2wd unless you can change the profile on the esc to tame it a bit!
(most people seem to be running 7.5 and 8.5 now)

The car choice will be difficult to get an unbiased opinion on as you have brand loyalty and justifiying the choice made influencing people's responses.
I don't believe that there is much to choose between them performance wise, the best thing to do is go to the track and take a close look at other people's cars to see which you like the look of the most.
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Old 18-09-2012
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sosidge sosidge is offline
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If it is easier for you to get a race locally with a buggy, that is a really good reason to try off-road.

I'm sure your local shop and track will be a source of lots of good advice about cars and powerplants - I think either car you have mentioned would be a good start, and although a 6.5 is a pretty fast motor for 2wd, it will get you racing.
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Old 18-09-2012
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Have you considered the team c tc02c which mb models do about £130 very strong and drives realy well also the daul sky motors and esc is very good + spares on the team c are very cheap if you do break it which i havent yet
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Old 18-09-2012
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jrenton jrenton is offline
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Default Lipos

What Lipos do you have from TC rAcing. If you have stick packs then this will limit your options.

In our region there are a lot more 2wd drivers and they have a lot less maintenance required than their 4wd cousins.
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Old 19-09-2012
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the durango 210 is very good and will take your stick pack, also the ever faithful B4 still a good buggy, theres also the losi 22, there is so much out there, i would go to the club you will be racing at to see what others are racing
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  #8  
Old 19-09-2012
jameshealey jameshealey is offline
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I've just bought a ReVtech 7.5T and 2S Stick Lipo (which fits the DEX210)

I'm going to get the Durango DEX210.. as the ability to switch between mid and rear motor seems a great idea, plus my local shop MB Models carries lots of spares for the DEX210

I didn't race electric TC before it was Nitro.. Only steering servo is staying.

As for the speeds of the motor, gearing down and running less timing should be enough to tame the power at first if i'm struggling with the mod motor.
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Old 19-09-2012
morpheus2010 morpheus2010 is offline
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Thumbs up dex210

Good choice, you'll get good service from MB Models as well.

Tyre choice is very important, For front, Schumacher low profile Staggers without inserts are popular on astro turf tracks.

under servo weight sharpens the steering response.

mini spikes for rear, Ballistic buggy greens for wet conditions.

See what others at your club use.
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  #10  
Old 19-09-2012
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gearing down wont help you much, its the amount of torque thats the problem, not the top speed, better off geared harder to take some of the kick away if temperatures of motor and speed control permit it. you'd be better off with something like an 8.5 turn in 2wd
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Old 19-09-2012
jameshealey jameshealey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dodgydiy View Post
gearing down wont help you much, its the amount of torque thats the problem, not the top speed, better off geared harder to take some of the kick away if temperatures of motor and speed control permit it. you'd be better off with something like an 8.5 turn in 2wd
Haha cheers for that piece of advice after I just bought a 7.5T

Should be all right, I can always play with the Expo and EPA to tame the throttle if I need to.
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