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Old 01-09-2013
PaulUpton PaulUpton is offline
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Default TLR 22 2.0 build tips

So new car will be arriving with most early next week, car goes together like a dream.

One small part that needs attention as mentioned but Frank Root from TLR

"On the 22 2.0 build, I have one quick note guy. On one of the sample kits, we saw an issue that when the rack housing was tightened down well in the chassis between the chassis, front pivot and front bulkhead, the slider rack could be a little on the snug side. We didn't see this during any of the testing or samples, so it was a surprise to see it in the production kits. Since the fix literally... takes only 30 seconds, we didn't feel it was worth holding back the kits to do a full inspection, or possibly rework the kits with new parts.

With the said, the rack top to bottom, just needs a little shaving. I don't have one in front of me, so I don't have the exact dimensions, but you should be able to sand about .15mm (almost nothing) off the top and/or bottom of the rack to solve the issue. I used an emory board (nail file) and it only took a few swipes, so don't go crazy with it. If you already have the rack housing installed in the front end, just do a little at a time and keep checking to see if the rack is 100% free. If it is, you are done and move on. If not, sand just a little more.

Guys, I am really sorry I had to throw this build tip out there. We worked really hard to do everything in our power to be sure the kit build was perfect, but sometimes the production parts from longer runs are just a tab bit off. Again, we never saw this problem until we got a production kit to check when the shipment arrive in CA. When you are working with tolerances as tight as we are you take this risk, and this time it bit us a little, but at least the fix is easy. We'll work to be sure the fit is improved moving forward, and be sure to ask me if you have any questions. Next week, I'll get a detailed post with photos on the TLRacing Team Blog for sure.

Thanks!
Frank"

I would suggest having the car built before you start sanding so you know how much to remove, it literally is nothing I did a few swipes both sides on some very fine sand paper



Any other tips you notice during build post in here
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Old 01-09-2013
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Arn0 Arn0 is offline
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Hi Paul,

You can have some additional tips here (link) following the various build steps.

HTH
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Old 02-09-2013
vrooom vrooom is offline
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would love to hear how much different it handles with new front end.
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Old 05-09-2013
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Cremegg Cremegg is offline
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What shock pistons and oil are you tunning for mid motor astro?

Kit 2 holes or 4 hole 55 pistons?

And what oil?

Thanks
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Old 11-10-2013
stefke stefke is offline
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The manual states that you don't have to use any spacers when using a Sävox servo. However, when using a Sävox MG1251 servo (one of the most popular Low profile servo's) I found that you have to use a total of 2,5mm of spacers or the steering will bind.
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Old 11-10-2013
paulj paulj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cremegg View Post
What shock pistons and oil are you tunning for mid motor astro?

Kit 2 holes or 4 hole 55 pistons?

And what oil?

Thanks
Try the Dustin Evans mid motor worlds set up for the 2.0 it seems to be a good starting point for astro. 4 hole machined pistons, Avid ones work great if you can't get the Losi machined versions I think it's 1.3mm for a #55 equivalent. 35wt front 27.5wt rear.
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Old 11-10-2013
paulj paulj is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrooom View Post
would love to hear how much different it handles with new front end.
Well using the Worlds set up indoors on a mix of carpet and slippy floor the set up was very well balanced. I am using the Cream V2 mid motor weight and a brass kick shim but otherwise as Dustin Evans set up with no extra weight in the car. Just for reference I've returned to racing again this year after a long lay off (ten years!) but got my F3 rating back and I had run the 22 V1 earlier in the year but mostly I used an RB6 this year until the 2.0 came out.
It was very good on open/high speed bends, good traction, smooth steering and no sudden loss of grip at the rear on corner exit. In fact I'd go so far to say the rear was too locked in if anything. I was looking for more low speed steering so tried a shorter front link first - better, shocks moved in on arm - better again. The biggest change was to put a shorty LiPo in down the centre of the saddle pack position much more nimble. it's still a bit off where I'd like the front end to be as yet but first time out with it in mid, I had tried it rear first just for giggles a week before, and I was happy enough.

The car responded to changes well, I still think there is some more to come from tweaking the set up and I'll probably try a softer front spring next and possibly drop the oil weight too, then look at increasing rear anti squat to remove some of the locked in feel to the rear end. If it was outdoors on astro/grass I'd be back to the Worlds set up as a starting point as it felt very smooth and well balanced, certainly the best balanced feel I've had from a 22 with no nasty inconsistent behaviour it was easy to put in a solid consistent run. I like mine so much I've just bought my 8yr old son a 2.0 to replace his 22 RTR so it will be interesting to see how he gets on with a mid motor car next time out.
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