Kyosho 1/8 Genius needed

[Mansfieldrcsecretary]

I have an Inferno VE and want some hop ups, mainly shock towers and hubs. What is the difference between MP7, MP7.5, 777 and MP9. Which is mine.
Many thanks

[Nas]

I'm no Kyosho genius. But the mp9 is a completely different car to the cars mentioned above.

However the Mp7,Mp7.5,Mp777 and VE are all in the same category.So upgrades may work from those kits in the VE ,however double check before purchasing. I dont think they make too many upgrades for those models anymore,but i may be wrong.

Thanks.

[Mansfieldrcsecretary]

Thanks for that.
The trouble I was having is that I can't find which items are cross comoatible

[RogerM]

No expert on the 1/8th stuff but this link might help (hopefully)

http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/op...7_060322-e.pdf

[Moose]

not an expert but drove kyosho nitro some time.

MP7= does not exist
MP7.5 = basicly this one was of the best cars ever, there are planty of versions out Kanai1,2,3, and sport and RTR versions. The inferno VE is a electric converted Sport version.
MP777: surrender of the 7.5 with different geometry, car was difficult to drive and set up, Kyosho lost most good drivers after they had this car, the SP1 version with longer chassis was much better though and most people learnd how to set up.
MP9= this is the car they have at the moment, the car is narrower, and drivetrain is much lighter, new diffs. Most parts are new in the mp9, the mp7xx cars are more similar

If you want shock towers look for MP7.5 ones. There are many hop up companies that made shock towers and other alloy parts for this car. Should be easy to get those parts. Please check before buying but 7.5 parts are the way to go. for hubs and steering parts there are even more companies because some other manufactures parts fit. hyper7 for example and even mugen suspension parts. What exactly do you want to achieve?

[Mansfieldrcsecretary]

Firstly thank you. Despite your own admission you sound pretty genius like to me.
Pretty much I'm just looking for more robust as the front shock tower is only 3mm soft alloy, it flexes and bends tragically.
Thank you a lot for your help.
On another note, I'm new to 1/8 scale and off road. (tc mainly) the kyosho seems slightly loose on the rear but also soft on the bumps. On a tc I'd soften to generate more grip or stiffen front I don't think this is going to improve matters though. Any thoughts?
Thanks again.

[Moose]

soft on the bumps? 8 scale cars always feel a bit soft compared to other cars. If it isnt a problem I wouldnt change it that much.
I would try a shorter position for the upper rear link (might be called upper rear arm) to generate a bit more rear end grip.
If you dont already have done so I would use the inner hole on the wheel side if thats not enough you can use the lower inner hole on the shock tower too (if you use the higher position at the moment.)
If thats still not enough check the diffs and the shocks first .
What diff fluids do you use? I would start with something like 7000 front, 5000 middle, and 1000 rear (or just some grease for the rear diff). If you want to calm the rear a bit down you can use 2000 for the rear. If you run on high bite tracks you can use more viscous oil all around with same proportion.

edit: shocks are super important but if you use common oil (400 front 300 rear for example if I remember right the mp7.5 shocks with stock pistons) I wouldnt start with changing springs if there is a lack of rear end grip. Those stuff is hard to tell on the internet so others might recommand to do so first but on 8 scale I used to soften both rear and front at once I did not really use it to set grip level between rear and front but this is just how I did it. For those stuff I would ask at the track.

[Mansfieldrcsecretary]

Thanks again.
I run entirely on astro and to be fair mainly dry and high grip.
I'll try those other shock and upper link positions.
At the moment I'm running 5000 front and middle and 2000 back.

[Moose]

diff should be good, maybe more traction possible but the way to start.
If you go to 7000 front diff this reduces steering a bit and might help too.

I didnt mean the shock position, I ment the position from the upper link, this is also on the shock tower near the diff outdrives. There should be 4 holes and you can just switch to the hole under the hole you use at the moment (sorry I cant explain it better ;D )
The link position have a big effect, if it does not write again :P