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Hello chaps,
I have just bought a second hand X6sq conversion for my B4, I was just wondering what else I would need to get it running. I was going to use the V1 associated shocks that Iialready have but not sure on what springs would be best. I run only on astro at the moment at Torch. I am pretty new to the whole rc thing and to be honest shockingly bad too! ![]() So a good easy to drive setup would be great too. (Xerun 120 esc and LRP X11 8.5 motor). Thanks In advance Ben
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TLR 22, (Its all really about the stickers tbh) |
#2
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Hi Ben,
It depends on what you have with your conversion already and what spec you are looking to achieve. Long wheel axles are important, as are the E-Speed rear hangers. If you are at TORCH on sunday, I will be there at the regional, come up and say hello and we can have a look at the car for you and let you know whats what with it for you... Darren
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ORCA - LC RACING - RUDDOG PRODUCTS - JCONCEPTS - ALPHA PLUS - TEKIN RACING - ULTRAPOWER AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ TKR GRAPHICS - BF MATERIALS - BATAN - DMS PARTZ - TEAM AJ Tel : (01923) 816636
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#3
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I'm running a 24t pinion on my 8.5 X12 with a 78 spur, you need the smaller spur or the drive shaft can hit the spur. I have E speed hangers on my dry car but not on my wet car. You need short rods to fit them.
We use grass so similar to astro and I have blue ft and silver rr springs and currently on 35 ft 25rr oil but may change that although it will get you started. The only weight I've added to my car is a lump of brass behind the servo. I still use a stick pack across the chassis but many cut the walls down and use saddles side by side or in a kind of T shape right up to the servo. Just drive it for now, it's a whole different car to a B4, I love mine. ![]()
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X6 Squared. No2 car. Novak. Savox. X6 Squared. No1 car. RS Pro, LRP. SC10 4x4 FT. Toro 120A. Tenshock. Savox. SC10. Stock spec ESC & motor. KO Propo. Powered by Nanotechnology. |
#4
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Thanks Chaps,
Cheers Darren, not sure I'll have it by sunday but will come over and say hi if I can make it as a future customer (just on breakages alone i really am that bad)! Phil thanks for that its just what I was after I'll still be using my stick packs and as it happens those are the only springs I have anyway ![]() i'll order up a pinion and spur Thanks again Ben
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TLR 22, (Its all really about the stickers tbh) |
#5
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Raced this evening and the car was great. 8.5t was plenty. Felt no reason to change any of what I mentioned above but had to keep an eye on ride height and camber. Had it between 20 and 22mm.
It all came down to tyres by the final as the dew settled and I managed a 2nd in the B with 3rd and 4th only a couple if feet behind me. Good fun. ![]()
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X6 Squared. No2 car. Novak. Savox. X6 Squared. No1 car. RS Pro, LRP. SC10 4x4 FT. Toro 120A. Tenshock. Savox. SC10. Stock spec ESC & motor. KO Propo. Powered by Nanotechnology. |
#6
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Well done and congrats mate,
I'm looking forwards to trying it out ![]()
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TLR 22, (Its all really about the stickers tbh) |
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We work hard so you will make that last comment, Phil: "Good fun."
Hope you can keep on saying that. |
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The whole racing thing is just a massive added bonus!! ![]()
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TLR 22, (Its all really about the stickers tbh) |
#9
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X-Factory X-6 Cubed |
#10
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It's your own fault. ![]() ![]()
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X6 Squared. No2 car. Novak. Savox. X6 Squared. No1 car. RS Pro, LRP. SC10 4x4 FT. Toro 120A. Tenshock. Savox. SC10. Stock spec ESC & motor. KO Propo. Powered by Nanotechnology. |
#11
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Hi chaps,
I have my kit all built up now looks awsome! ![]() I am trying to sort out a decent setup on it as I still need to get some longer cvd's(not allowed to spend anymore on toy cars this month apparentley ![]() I have the rear suspension currentley set to the centre hole on the rear arms and second hole from bottom holes on the rear tower. This is as close to the standard UK setup I could get. being a newb I'm not sure how this will efffect the other settings or should I leave them the same as the setup sheet. Also I'm using e-speed hangers too Thanks Ben
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TLR 22, (Its all really about the stickers tbh) |
#12
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I copied Ellis Staffords base setup from the X factory site which works well on grass and Astro.
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X6 Squared. No2 car. Novak. Savox. X6 Squared. No1 car. RS Pro, LRP. SC10 4x4 FT. Toro 120A. Tenshock. Savox. SC10. Stock spec ESC & motor. KO Propo. Powered by Nanotechnology. |
#13
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Hello mate,
I think thats the one I've been using, trouble is my rear axles pop out as it gives me too much droop. (I need to get the londer drive shafts) I have put some spacers in the shocks and adjusted the hole posuitions but wondered if this would effect the rest of the setup too much? Cheers Ben ![]()
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TLR 22, (Its all really about the stickers tbh) |
#14
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Personally I would stay on the same holes regardless and if you really are unable to get the axles at present (it is just the XF5661 axles you need not the whole driveshafts) then limit the droop accordingly (with more spacers inside the shocks) so your bones dont drop out until such time you can get the axles and then dial in a little more droop again..
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ORCA - LC RACING - RUDDOG PRODUCTS - JCONCEPTS - ALPHA PLUS - TEKIN RACING - ULTRAPOWER AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ TKR GRAPHICS - BF MATERIALS - BATAN - DMS PARTZ - TEAM AJ Tel : (01923) 816636
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#15
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For several years before the advent of the #5661 axle that was the answer: use the correct shock mounting position so you got the geometry correct and use limiters to keep the bones in the outdrives. For most club racers that works pretty well, and that's why #5661 is sold as an optional part, not a standard part of the Kit.
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#16
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Thats great thanks chaps
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TLR 22, (Its all really about the stickers tbh) |
#17
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I've also recent gone to an X6sq and have the same problem with the driveshafts popping out, I went as far as 10mm spacers in the shocks before moving out 1 hole on the wishbones, as far as I know I have the longer axles as there's a receipt for them in with the car.
If moving the shock out by one hole affects the handling how much spacing is required to limit the droop enought to keep the shafts in (I'm running losi shocks btw)? |
#18
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__________________
ORCA - LC RACING - RUDDOG PRODUCTS - JCONCEPTS - ALPHA PLUS - TEKIN RACING - ULTRAPOWER AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ TKR GRAPHICS - BF MATERIALS - BATAN - DMS PARTZ - TEAM AJ Tel : (01923) 816636
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#19
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Thanks for the info Darren, althought it sounds like it might cost me some money
![]() Is there a measurement I can take from the outside of the shock body (eg length from the centre of eyelet to the end of the body) to see if I have the wrong ones on? Cheers Nigel. |
#20
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Another possibility, Nigel. If you have #5661 axles, they come with a small aluminum spacer which is placed between the shoulder of the axle and the inner bearing. If your spacer is missing, or if it is outboard, you will continue to have the "bone-out-of-outdrive" problem. Writing from home, so no actual info to hand, but I think the spacer is 0.060". I know you can easily see it.
If you have no spacer at all, inboard or out, then you probably don't have #5661. The only way to use #5661 without the spacer (It might have come up missing.) is to put a number of shims in, and they should be inboard. |
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