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Old 11-05-2012
Shaun_TLR Shaun_TLR is offline
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Default TLR 22 mid motor - saddle packs - and esc

Hi

I've a TLR 22 rolling chasis being delivered today and I'm trying to sort electrics and setup for it, but I have a few questions.

OK, so I'm thinking about this esc

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/orion-vo...roducts/365664

My question is, if I have the 22 running mid motor with saddle packs, is this esc just going to be too big? I was told from MS it would prob run ok without the fan, so that could be an option maybe?

I did try the search function but couldn't find what I was looking for. This is also my first post................ so play nice
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Old 11-05-2012
Shaun_TLR Shaun_TLR is offline
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Also, does anyone have any pictures of the setup inside of their 22? Just so I can get some ideas and gauge what exactly is going to fit inside her??

ta muchly
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Old 11-05-2012
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Gnarly Old Dog Gnarly Old Dog is offline
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Here's one of the tidiest installs on the planet

http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost...&postcount=107

You might want to take a look through that entire thread as it covers the whole gamut of installs.

I've ran the R10 in my 22 mid and installed it behind the Low Profile servo. It is tight because the R10 is slightly bigger than the LRP/Nosram and you have to find somewhere to package Jodrell Bank (aka the external power cap) but it can be done.

Running a Low Profile servo in the Mid car is a must if you want to package the ESC behind the servo and in front of the cells. Otherwise, you'll be on the angled shelf or making your own tray up to fit above the battery.

The R10 is a nice ESC - I don't have any pics of my install but if you can get hold of a back issue of rcracer magazine from ADH publishing, then there's a big pic of my install in there .

Hope we're playing nice enough for you - We don't all bite

There's a whole host of good info on here in one form or another - welcome to the Tribe...
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Old 11-05-2012
Shaun_TLR Shaun_TLR is offline
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awesome thanks for that! My other option was this esc;

http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-flux...roducts/366008

Somewhat cheaper agreed, but kinda weighing up what the budget can stretch to. That one looks pretty tall also, and I guess id either have to remove the fan to mount it on the motor plate, or leave the fan on and mount it behind the servo........... which of course then forces you to buy a low profile servo.
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Old 11-05-2012
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Gnarly Old Dog Gnarly Old Dog is offline
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No probs
That HPI ESC is sensorless only whereas the Orion is Sensored which is something that you might want to consider.
I've no experience of the HPI ESC so cannot comment. It does look a bit on the tall and large side and that is a consideration that you'll need to think about if you intend building the 22 in mid motor config. In rear motor it is less of an issue and the rear motor car is still a very sweet handling and super strong race car.

EDIT: I think you might just get away with the HPI ESC after all - re-reading the specs, it's not as big as it looks in the image. Might get lucky

Last edited by Gnarly Old Dog; 11-05-2012 at 11:34 AM. Reason: I must learn to read properly before posting hasty replies...
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Old 11-05-2012
Shaun_TLR Shaun_TLR is offline
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The sensorless issue, at the risk of showing my noob jedi skills, what are the pros and cons as such?

on a side note, are you aware if you require a seperate shell with a mid motor setup or will the standard rtr shell suffice? ta muchly
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Old 11-05-2012
Tom3012 Tom3012 is offline
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Hi Shaun,

I was going to send u a PM but cant?

Anyway, ive just bought an orion r10 myself, its a brilliant speedo! Some shops are even doing a special deal including the program box... One such shop is top left of page and begins with 'J'
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Old 11-05-2012
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Sensored vs sensorless. Essentially, it boils down to how the ESC can interpret where the rotor is in relation to the stator coils in the motor. Brushless motors have 3 field coils and the ESC switches 2 of them on at a time. The rotor is magnetic and is induced to move because of the electric current being applied in the coils. By switching the coils on and off really fast, the rotor turns and bingo we get and output that we can hook into the transmission.
A sensored motor has hall-effect (I think) positional sensors inside it which 'tell' the ESC exactly where the rotor is in relation to the sensors so it knows which coils to turn on and by how much. The upshot is that you get a better throttle response in theory which is helpful in our type of application where we are varying the throttle so much.
The downside is that you have an additional wire to package between the ESC and the motor and sensored motors don't like getting wet.

Sensorless motors relie on the ESC software to detect where the rotor is as opposed to the sensors - so depending on the ESC software, you can get some that are virtually as good as sensored in throttle feel or some where the motor will hesitate as you apply the throttle because the ESC doesn't quite know what current to pass to which coils. Modern sensorless ESCs are pretty good and they have the added bonus that the motors are more robust against moisture ingress (no sensors to go wrong). That said, most competition homologated motors are sensored but depending on the ESC, some sensored ESCs will allow you to run a sensorless motor as well.

I've run a Dynamite Sensored Fuze ESC with both a 3800Kv sensorless motor and a 7.5T sensored motor and I was pretty pleased and amazed at the throttle feel from the sensorless mode.

The other added benefit with sensorless is that the motors generally run slightly more efficient than sensored ones.

That's my humble understanding anyway - there are some very clever guys on here (much cleverer than me) and I'm sure they'll be able to chip in and fill in the gaps where I'm wrong.
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Old 11-05-2012
Shaun_TLR Shaun_TLR is offline
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that same place is where I was going to buy mine from was going to run it with an LRP x12, but undecided yet.

Are you running it mid motor at all? Have you had to buy a diff shell to run it mid motor?
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Old 11-05-2012
Shaun_TLR Shaun_TLR is offline
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not sure why Im not allowing pms??
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Old 11-05-2012
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Pm's will be something with your account settings? I personally dont run a 22 anymore but looking at the size of the speedo you should be ok with a standard shell, you may have to take the fan off the speedo but that shouldnt be a problem...

I run mine with an X12 6.5, its super quick, id suggest a 7.5 as this will be more than fast enough, depends on the track your racing at
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Old 11-05-2012
Shaun_TLR Shaun_TLR is offline
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Ive never raced before, but my friend has an LRP x12 8.5 turn he was going to let me have reasonably cheap. I imagine that'll be more than enough to start with surely?
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Old 11-05-2012
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That would be even better! If you pick the orion speedo its got boost and turbo features too so you can make it quicker if needs be, not felt the need to on mine though TBH...
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Old 11-05-2012
Shaun_TLR Shaun_TLR is offline
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Can I just confirm that orion esc does do reverse? as MS says not, yet JE say it does. I know reverse is frowned upon when racing, but I'm prob just gonna be bashing predominantly, and would make for a convinient feature that I can switch off to race???
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Old 11-05-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom3012 View Post
Pm's will be something with your account settings? I personally dont run a 22 anymore but looking at the size of the speedo you should be ok with a standard shell, you may have to take the fan off the speedo but that shouldnt be a problem...

I run mine with an X12 6.5, its super quick, id suggest a 7.5 as this will be more than fast enough, depends on the track your racing at

Is it possible to take the fan off any speedo? I run a castle mamba max pro with tekin 8.5 and struggle to get it in my 22 even with a larger shell would fit perfectly if I didnt need the fan. It never gets hot and to be honest I dont even think I have seen the fan on before...
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