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#2
14-04-2008
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diff slipping..... melted
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! 
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#3
14-04-2008
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Yeah sounds like it - if you've been screaming around without noticing the diff slipping then it can heat up to the point of melting. If it's the first run as well, it will certainly need tightening after a few laps as it beds in.
Hopefully nothing else is damaged? You'll just need to get another 37T pulley.
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#5
14-04-2008
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Hi, I was facing something similar sometime ago before I put in a slipper. I ran the brand new db01 with a hot BL motor on high grip carpet (just looking if it really worked all right
 ) But while accelerating or braking there were some evil noises- I got strongly advised by the local experts to give it a rest ! On that highy grip carpet, the eccessive power "wouldn´t find any way out" but slipping both diffs !They hadn´t started melting yet, but were hot and bruised (still working though...  )So again: my own fault ! And again: been lucky ! was that of any help ?
__________________
TRF 201/LRP Sphere/Vector 7,5 TRF416/LRP Zero/Vector X12 17,5
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#7
14-04-2008
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were your diff rings loose on the plastic holders?? or not glued??
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man!
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#11
14-04-2008
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even still, chances are you either didn't seat the diff correctly (build it, set it, run the car at part throttle, hold one rear wheel for 5 secs, then the other, recheck setting) or the glue came undone on the plates.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man!
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#12
14-04-2008
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I'd think the diff would be 'ok' if the plates had become unglued- the plate holder would be the one to suffer?
Yeah sounds like the diff has loosened a bit and been screaming away - it wouldn't take long to melt a diff. I've not seen it in a Tamiya but I've seen it in the Losi cars a few times.  You got a replacement mate?
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#13
14-04-2008
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Quote:
I am fairly confident that I did seat the diff properly including running at half throttle and holding each half etc etc... the slipper was set to 4mm so think it was a bit tight and suspect that the diff loosened....
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#14
14-04-2008
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My rear diff has been a bit of a bugger so far. I ran it for the first time and it started squealing after a couple of laps, so I had to adjust it, then the slipper was too tight. Then after a bit more faffing we decided the slipper was too loose, so we adjusted that again. Juggling the settings twixt diffs and slipper is a pain trying to get it "just right". Doesn't help when you are the only pioneer running a Tamiya.
The rear diff did need a hell of a lot of tightening once it had bedded in. When I built it on the bench and locked the outdrives I couldn't make it slip by hand so I thought it was pretty tight - how wrong can you be! Of course, once I had adjusted it all nicely, I had to go and stuff a 5.5T BL in it and now I am back to square one ordering new bits to rebuild the back diff. This time I am going to use the 501X outdrives and Kanzen diff balls I bought ages ago. Just waiting for my pulleys to arrive from Stella, then it'll be ready for the outdoor season. PS, anyone know where I can get some 51287 diff plates - they seem to be out of stock. Can't think why!
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