Losi 22 and tyres ?

[andys]

After trying tons of stuff to get my 22 to work (HRC / LRC - squat / oils / springs / Steve-Proracing setup - Old Dogs tips etc), i've come to this final disappointing conclusion.

The car ONLY works with NEW, or almost new tyres.

I think that the club drivers out there (me included) are trying to chase the right setup from the info posted on oOple, but is just does not work unless you have new boots.

I ran a set of one meeting old tyres today on the 22, then after struggling for initial traction out of the corners (grass and astro track) I put them on my X6 - the X6 had bags of grip and was in no doubt which way should be pointing forwards. Was about a second a lap quicker with the X6. These tyres would normally last me at least another meeting...

So - i'm undecided what to do, car is good when grip is high - crap when it's low, and crap when the tyres start to go off. So annoying when another car gets close, so you boot it, only to find yourself pointing in the wrong direction !

[millser]

yep know where you coming with this costing a fortune in tyres

[jkclifford]

allways been the same, 60% ability 40% budget!!

[martin so16]

the 22 is a tyre eater thats for sure one meeting on brand new schumacher yellows on high grip astro some racers use 2 sets in one all day meeting at are track great car the 22 just not good on tyres but still the best 2wd ive ever had

[jonathan may]

had a this problem yesterday on a grass track with half worn schumacher mini spikes just no rear end grip in corners other buggys cougars, x6, b4 could all power out of the corners with ease.

[RobW]

Yep, definitely seem to be eating through yellow minispikes a lot faster with my 22 compared to my previous X6.

Our track is high grip astro so the 22s work really well on it but the downside is tyre cost. Tyres work great for 2-3 runs and then tail off very quickly to the point that after 5-6 runs they are virtually useless.

I know a lot of serious racers would probably not consider using tyres this old anyway but it would be nice to be able to use older tyres for practice or club meetings.

I really like my 22 but the performance decline for used tyres does seem steeper than other cars.

Going to see if I can get blues to work next time.

Rob

[stegger]

Are there any difference in wear etc. with the DBOOTS tyres ?

[RobW]

I've not tried the Dboots as our summer series is running only schumacher tyres so was not really testing or practising with other makes. Not sure if anyone else has tried the Dboots - not seen anyone but I'll be looking to see if anyone is getting on with anything other than yellow minis at club meets.

Rob

[andys]

Originally Posted by jonathan may

had a this problem yesterday on a grass track with half worn schumacher mini spikes just no rear end grip in corners other buggys cougars, x6, b4 could all power out of the corners with ease.

Exactly my problem.
It really is making me reconsider running the 22. I'm sure the people who are getting them to go well are using new tyres much more often than club drivers. I have sets that look fine, but don't work anymore on the 22 !

It does make me wonder about the car in general - why can my X6 grip like shit to a blanket with the same set of tyres, same speedo - batteries etc ?

A pal with a standard XXX Cr was way quicker than me out of the corners this weekend, might just get mine out and run that instead...

Considering going rear motor before I sack it off - can anyone comment on grip / tyre wear with rear motor ?

[jonathan may]

2 sets of tyres a day is a bit much and as for the dboots i also used them on grass good when new as good a mini spike yellow but again as they became half wore grip droped off alot.

tempted to try the atomic carbon tardis conversion.

[Timee80]

I ran mine rear motored wiyh dboots yesterday in the me regional and the wear was much less this way round. There is still life in mine for at least one more club meet. The grip level is much more consistent when running rear motored. had my best result so far with the 22 in rear motor config. Finished c2. Thats good for me. It lacked abit of agility infield but had lots of forward drive

[Chris56]

When i was racing indoors the rear end grip was good for 3 weeks but terrible thereafter, particularly when accelerating out of a corner.

Im still learning the effects of changing certain setup features.

Would increasing the amount of anti-squat help matters, since this will encourage weight transfer over the rear of the car?

I've also ordered one of those stainless steel pivot blocks from Cream.

[Timee80]

More antisquat will give more traction out of corners but take away some on power steering

[Chris56]

Originally Posted by Timee80

More antisquat will give more traction out of corners but take away some on power steering

Thanks Timee80, im currently running 1 deg with the rear weight kit, what should I increase it to (when i've added the 42g hinge pin block)?

[fastinfastout]

Originally Posted by Timee80

More antisquat will give more traction out of corners but take away some on power steering

yes that is what I have found, even though most people say less antisquat gives
more squat and more traction.

[andys]

Tardis conversion is tempting, but £145 is a load of cash.
What if it's still as bad !
Also a question Mark over shell fitment ?

Anti squat, with the 4.0 HRC :
I ran 3degree, switched to 1 degree and it made things much worse accelerating out if corners. 3degree for me from now on.

[andys]

From my findings I reckon around 10 degrees of anti squat should make the car drivable !

[Timee80]

I like 1 degree anti.squat. I found with much more i have too little steering on power and too much off power. When i ran mid i used stock 4 hole 55 pistons and 20 wt oil. Try 3mm washers under outer rear ball stud and make sure you use the 25 degree front kickup shim.

[Chris56]

will give that a go. Should I use the 5 of 10 deg castor blocks?

[Timee80]

Im using 3 right now but only because 5 wasnt in stock. 5 should give more initial turn in than 10