wot do u use to back shells ?

[jayst]

do u use halfords car laquer or nitro block ?
do u spray it on before or after the window masks ?

[bigred5765]

halfords clear lacquer or plasti coat clear before removing window masks, but leave for 24 hrs to cure after before removing window mask. they can be removed before it drys, but be carefull removing them,

[jayst]

cheers carl

[U1timate PigDog]

+1 on what bigRed said, I use plasticote, works great and I just run the scalpel down the edges of the window mask gently and it seems to help them lift alot more cleanly.

[gingapaint]

I lightly seal with lacquer, unless i know the shell will be used for an alternative purpose.. ie, an indoor only shell is left without (doesnt rain much indoors..) or most of my Nitro customers prefere to apply thier own.

[def12007]

I use nitro block every time wether its nitro or electric ,but i do use waterbased paints ,nitro block works great with nitro fuel and trye aditives that will splash around the interior of the shell and it copes real well with the extreme temperatures the shell will take ,it takes a long time to paint a shell so to not finish properly would be a crime ,

[Mark A]

as anyone used coloured plasti-kote, does it work the same as the clear.
I have used various rc aerosol paints to back my paint jobs, some re-act with the water base paints.
Thanks in advance
Dude

[eyeayen]

If you're finding solvent based paint reacting it could be you're putting it on too quick before the water based paint has properly cured. Or you're putting the solvent based paint on too wet.

Several thin coats are much better than one thick coat which will cause a pickle type effect with the water based.

Can you post a picture of the reaction ?

[Mark A]

I have always left it 24 hrs before backing but have found tamiya or fastrax still pickle in areas.

[cigbunt]

i tired using nitro block on water based paint did a few coats but shell still seems to be a bit prone to marking..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clear-CAR-...#ht_3433wt_807

will lacquer work better?

[eyeayen]

Originally Posted by cigbunt

i tired using nitro block on water based paint did a few coats but shell still seems to be a bit prone to marking..

I think maybe people are getting a little confused with what we're trying to do as painters... When we airbrush or even use aerosols the paint we're putting on is microns thick, there is no depth to it.

When you back it with nitro block that's just to stop it washing off in the rain and mainly to stop nitro fuel or tire additives attacking your hard work.

To stop things physically rubbing the paint you need to back the inside of the shell with some sort of protective tape.

These cars take a beating when out on track, touring cars aren't so bad because there shells don't really touch any of the chassis, even if they turn over the roof is unlikely to push in so much it hits any moving parts. Buggies on the other hand have to put up with a lot more. Every time you jump your car when it lands the chassis can flex, if it flex's the shell has to go somewhere too, if you roll it over the shell might get pushed in for a less than a second but it's got the potential to touch something as it does because the tolerances are much closer. Avoiding a rubbed off area isn't easy. You could make the mounts a touch higher or try and file what evers rubbing but I think on some chassis's you just can't avoid it.

[Stuweatherman]

Using aluminium tape helps with rubbing areas, its lightweight, moulds lovely to a shell and you can spot when its getting a little thin as it goes dull. Also acts as a slight heat shield on a nitro exhaust.

And didn't someone say 'rubbings racing!!'

[cigbunt]

@eyeayan...

yeah i know what you mean ive backed mine with masking tape as thats all i had and its better than nothing...

as for nitroblock maybe i didnt apply as much as i should of as its still seems to be quite "soft" i was asking how lacquer compares for the only reason that its cheaper than plasti.

[eyeayen]

Lacquer would be okay and as long as the Water Based has dried out thoroughly it will work fine. You might be able to get a slightly higher build with it but as the same time it's only going to be microns.

Get yourself to B&Q and pick up some of the tape Stu has mentioned above, that's your best bet and has he's point out you can see when it's getting a little thin so have time to act and repair that area.

[U1timate PigDog]

Touring cars do take some hammer (depending on the driver ) but it tends to be in different place, the area above the wheel arch is prone to rubbing especially if running a soft setup and the front of the car takes the most damage from the bumper. but like Ian says this isnt the same as protecting the paint with laquer/ nitro block etc.

Bodies just dont last forever ........

for added protection from damage I personally would recommend fender mender/ shoo goo as it leave a rubbery texture that offers really good protection from rubbing etc.