Which 1/10 touring car

[NewbyStu]

I want to buy a 1/10 touring car set-up for indoor (carpet) use at my local rc car club. I am looking for something that won't to break the bank but will still be competitive. Any suggestions???

I already have radio gear etc, so it doesn't need to be something that comes ready to race.

Thanks

[moggy12]

xray t3 2010 all the way will be cheaper to buy with the new t3 2012 coming out soon

[ch!3f]

depends on budget i only know 1 person with an xray and to behonest im not keen on them.think there way over priced mind you all the other companies at the minute are catching up with them now cost wise.

ive always had associated touring cars had a couple of tc3s now tc5r which i love handles fatastic for me.

best thing to do is have an ask around at your local club to see what they run and where to get spares from then go from there no point buying a car if you cant get spares quickly for it.

[tomtom]

Here the Yokomo BD5 seems to be the choice, quite expensive but great deals on used ones with spares.

I bought a T3 2011 with some tyres at a great price and it's a great car, very easy to drive and well priced for a used one, especially with the 2012 coming.

I really like the Xray gear diff, way better than the spec'R. That was a big bonus for me.

[qatmix]

At our club Tamiyas are the most popular. TRFs and TA05's

Ta05's can be picked up very cheap, and one regularly competes for FTD (We race on a small circuit, on indoors carpet 13.5t). TT01's are not very good though so don't get one of those.

X-rays are also popular, a good car, they can be expensive for spares.


Schumacher's and associated are almost extinct now as they spend most of the time on the bench as they seem prone to breaking.

Basically most are good.

Tamiyas seem to be winning at our club as they are quick and don't seem to break. (note about 3 years ago there were no Tamiyas at our club, everyone kinda thought of them as a toy brand, but then a few appeared, and now it has become the popular make).

We share spares but in 9 months of racing my 417 I have broken a C hub (£5) and it hasn't even worn out the drive shaft protectors. Marvellous car

[ch!3f]

its all down to the driver though for breaking things or sometimes other people got spares for my tc5r not broke it yet n had a few nice big crashes too.

[Layloo9136]

You say Tamiya TRF - but where on eart do you get them from? I can only find one site that has 1 Tamiya TRF416 and its silly money?

Do you know of a decent place to get them?

[U1timate PigDog]

Hi,

what kind of budget are you working on?

If your on a budget then I would recommend one of the Racer versions like the Xray T3R. Xrays are great cars and are pretty robust, its very popular at most places.

If your looking to get the best stuff it doesn't matter what brand your talking £300-350 depending on where you buy it (rolling chassis only)

Tamiya TRF 416/417 are expensive your best bet for getting one of these cheaper would be ebay but be aware someone has used it before and you dont know how well theyve looked after it, no matter what they say. And it will still cost around £150+.

There is nothing better than a car you have built yourself!

I'd buy a racer if your just starting out http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/XR300103.html

you may find it cheaper, I just googled it and this is the first one I clicked on. This will be competive at club and even natioanl level in the right hands.

Best of luck

[Layloo9136]

A main difference is also availability. Like I have been discussing with Stockport guys about the 417X - I have been on the net ALL day today sourcing them - and only two places in the UK have them and are charging £600+ for it!

Thus, you have to go to Hong Kong and have one imported. They are around $590 or £350-£360. However you then have $50 shipping on top of that, and import charges and vat work out at £100 on an item of that value - so you still end up paying around £500 for a Tamiya 417X.

I am looking at getting one from the US, and getting a friend there to buy it and then send it to me as a gift. Customs charges do not apply at all for family gifts under £135. I just have to clarify what charges there are for ain item worth $590.

- So - bearing this in mind if you actually want a new car, is the Xray T3 2012 is available in many uk places, JE, Wheelspin, Modelsport etc. All around the £370 mark.

So for myself, its a question of finding out the import charges on gifts over £135 and if they are talking silly money again, I will end up plumping for an Xray simply because its cheaper and more available.

(which is a shame as I love the Tamiya car, but if you can't get it in this country without paying stupid money, its a serious shame as its a really nice car)

[Layloo9136]

After speaking with customs today, it will be liable for full tax at 20% plus duty of 4.7%. But considering they add the duty and then tax the 20% on top of the car and the duty, you are actually paying tax on tax! How stupid.

I could always ask an importer to mark at a lower price but then that means you are only insured to that amount.

So - I am gonna play it safe and get an Xray T3 2012. Will be cheaper and more available, all be it a shame.

[Mike Haswell]

The post office will also charge you a handling fee.

For the US it is a Federal offence to lie on a customs declaration and they can be fined up to $5,000, that is why shops there are reluctant to do so.

You could always get one of the chinese Tamiya copies.

The T3 2012 is a decent car and there really isn't much between them all.

[shaun m]

ive just recently gone over to the xray t3'12 ( from another make ) and am absolutly loving it , never had a car that is soo responsive to driver input , and fast too !! and i tottaly agree , with all the top tc's out at the moment , they're is'nt alot in it ..

[Layloo9136]

Thats good to hear Shaun.

I am looking forward to it. Touring car is a new venture for me having had several nitro and TL01 Tamiyas etc. So the whole sanding and sealing of the graphite and tyre glue is a new one to me but looking forward to it. So just compiling all my bits now - like a mazda speed 6 shell but also the PL1505-30 LTCR looks interesting. So think I'll just do my one colour special on my Speed and have a pro do my LTCR. SO looking forward to picking it all up tomorrow and getting started on Wednesday

[shaun m]

just take your time , I bought mine on xmas eve ( 1 for indoor 1x outdoor car ) spent about 4hrs building each car , then also spent a fair ammount of time doing the electrics , and making sure it was easly accessible and tidy .. but im loving mine

[U1timate PigDog]

Originally Posted by Layloo9136

Thats good to hear Shaun.

I am looking forward to it. Touring car is a new venture for me having had several nitro and TL01 Tamiyas etc. So the whole sanding and sealing of the graphite and tyre glue is a new one to me but looking forward to it. So just compiling all my bits now - like a mazda speed 6 shell but also the PL1505-30 LTCR looks interesting. So think I'll just do my one colour special on my Speed and have a pro do my LTCR. SO looking forward to picking it all up tomorrow and getting started on Wednesday

If your sanding or filing any carbon parts make sure to wear a mask the dust is really bad for you!

Really you only need to lightly file the battery tape slots to stop the tape snapping, and just glue round the edges of the chassis. I use a cotton bud to apply the glue it makes the job easier and less messy.

it will be great car so enjoy

[Layloo9136]

4 hours Shaun? Id say thats lightning fast not taking your time haha. Depends on experience I guess.

Pigdog - thanks for the cotton bud tip. I was wondering hwo I was supposed to get tyre glue in some screw holes and the edges without covering the whole plate in the stuff, so thanks for the tip

[U1timate PigDog]

Personally I wouldn't do the screw holes, I think its unnecessary and a waste of time, really all you need to do is apply the glue to the flat edge around the chassis to stop it delaminating.

4 hours seems fine if youve built a few of these types of cars, its the shocks that annoy me and the turn buckles.

[Gunter]

The associated tc6 or 6.1 also a very good car had good results with mine all year and only really broken a caster block n steerin block or 2 all year and at £5 a pair not mega money

[sosidge]

Originally Posted by Layloo9136

4 hours Shaun? Id say thats lightning fast not taking your time haha. Depends on experience I guess.

Pigdog - thanks for the cotton bud tip. I was wondering hwo I was supposed to get tyre glue in some screw holes and the edges without covering the whole plate in the stuff, so thanks for the tip

Absolutely DON'T do the screw holes because it will mess up the alignment of parts during construction.

In fact my advice is to not bother with gluing the parts at all. Delamination is not a realistic risk, I have been running carbon chassis cars for a decade or more with no glue and have never had a problem. You are more likely to cause problems with parts not aligning properly, the edges are cut to a certain size for a reason.

[U1timate PigDog]

Absolutely DON'T do the screw holes because it will mess up the alignment of parts during construction.

In fact my advice is to not bother with gluing the parts at all. Delamination is not a realistic risk, I have been running carbon chassis cars for a decade or more with no glue and have never had a problem. You are more likely to cause problems with parts not aligning properly, the edges are cut to a certain size for a reason.

It wouldn't actually mess the alignment of anything as long as he didn't get glue on top side of the chassis, it does however mean the screws may protude past the bottom of the chassis if put on too thick, the glue round the edge of the chassis doesn't effect anything anyway so thats no big deal.

BUT I do agree to somewhat extent that its not really necessary, I've done cars both gluing and not and not had any problems with either so....its more of a personal preference.