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#2
28-09-2011
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The usual kind of stuff really - shock towers and wishbones.
You might also want to pickup the front and rear bulkhead pack, as this includes the gearbox casings and the shock tower mounts - both of which can "go" with a shock tower in a bad crash. I upgraded to Alloy 3Racing shock tower mounts because of this. However, these are blue, not the new brown colour so you'll get a colour mismatch!! As far as hop-ups are concerned, the Rudebits spine weight is very useful and I like the Vega steering link (for more steering). HTH 
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#3
28-09-2011
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Good luck with the new car.
The FS2 out of the box will be perfect no need to change anything. the spine weight is one to consider though. If go to a track to race i suggest the following, Front shock tower, (no need for the gearbox tops unless you change to non standard towers). Hubs front and Rear. Gearbox gears. Spur Gear. There will always be less common things broken but the above are the most likely.
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#4
28-09-2011
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As per Neil's post but I would order a pack of wishbones (they come as 1 front + 1 rear) which is currently LA272.
When ordering a spare front tower be use to order LA216B .. the B is very important as it's the revised design. I've personally never done a spur gear (they are both the original 2007 items on both my cars) and if you mesh the transmission gears properly they will last ages too (I think I have replaced them once since 2007 .. just because they were too messy to clean up rather than there being an issue with performance). That said they are both fairly cheap, the gears come with enough to do the whole car plus a spare for the optional one-way diff too. The front hubs are LA255, also get a set of UM519-1 (rear hubs) although they don't break under normal use a big impact (say and out of control car smashing into you) can crack them. It's not necessary to carry a front transmission case set BUT I like to as it is possible to damage the camber link plate if your making a change in a rush. The camber link plates in both trans case sets are interchangeable however I like to carry a front one as in the unlikely event of a MASSIVE accident (and it would have to be huge) damaging a trans case it's much more likely to be the front one. The trans case set also inlcudes a gearbox top and the tower brace too so you get a lot for the money! The car is one of the toughest on the market in my experience so you should be fine. TOP TIP:---- buy a pack of M3x5mm grub screws and use these to fill the unused holes in both the inboard camber link holes and those in the hubs. Doing this stiffens the parts up and means you are MUCH less likely to pull an ball stud out in a big crash! TOP TIP 2:--- do not be tempted to put more than 2mm of washers under the inner ball studs as this leaves very little thread engauged and CAN (rarely) be the cause of a pulled ball stud also. Whislt I think about it always use metal spacers under the ball studs as plastic ones can squash and relax a little leaving the stud lose, again a potential (but rare) failure. TOP TIP3:--- when building the car put the upper shock mounting screws in so the heads face forward NOT the nuts. This both helps prevent the screws digigng in on a roll over and putting extra load on the shock towers (which may then crack) AND makes it quicker to move shock positions which is a great tuning tool. TOP TIP4:--- when you get the car you will see there are shock mountings on both sides of the rear wishbone. On the side with the "loop" if your not using them put a spacer in the outer position to fill the gap and a screw though, this stiffens up the already very strong wishbone and can help a little (especially when it gets cold outside). TOP TIP5:--- Buy a pack of M3x18mm CAPHEAD screws and use those as a replacement for the kit items that go through the tower mounts / gearbox tops. The reason for that is both they are MUCH less likely to get rounded and the recessed design makes it quite hard to get a rounded screw out but also the longer length adds a little extra strength to the already quite beefy transmission cases .... an added bonus is that the extra thread engaugement means your MUCH less likely to strip the threads when you do the (rarely required) rebuilds. Please don't ready the above as the Lazer is a weak car, quite the opposite actually. All I want to do is help you build a car that is super reliable from the outset. You will fall in love with this car and want it to last for ever!!!!
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#5
28-09-2011
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I thankyou all for the detailed replys and Roger what can i say that was just superbative i shall try my best to follow your mark when building my new buggy.I`m going to stick a futaba bls551 in their to steer it.What size drivers will i need to build the kit? And is their any other specialised tools required.I want to get it all ready for the build.
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#6
29-09-2011
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Quote:
Great tips RogerM! But per the manual for the FS2 (which I found on the Kyosho Germany website) the whishbones are part number LA255? I just ordered ten pairs of them for my preordered FS2 SP, so I hope they are the right ones?!?! 
__________________
- XB9 - RX8 - T3 2012 - T1 - X12 - XB4?? -
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#7
29-09-2011
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The way the manual works is that they ship with a standard FS manual and a supplementary manual is included that displays all the new parts and steps in the build procedure.
If you visit Kyosho's site, you can download the FS2 specific manual (it's about 4-5 pages). LA255's are incorrect for the car... LA272's are what you need. Edit: Here's the manual, http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...X-5_FS2_IM.pdf
__________________
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#9
29-09-2011
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Quote:
The Futaba servo is a perfect fit (I run one too), you will probably need to put a small spacer between the servo horn and the ball stud to get the servo link rod to be perfectly perpendicular to the bell cranks though, about 2mm IIRC. You will need a good quality 2mm driver, a LONG 2.5mm driver (best it is ball ended too) as that makes motor changes easier with the debris guards still in palce and there are a few 1.5mm heads in there too (especially if you follow the grub screw tip). When you first use the shock cartridge tool make sure it is pushed fully home and keep downward pressure on it as you turn it to help it last a good long time. Actually when doing the shocks only a "nip" is required at either top or bottom as they are beautifully made and will not leak on you!
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#10
29-09-2011
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I have 1.5mm and 2mm EDS drivers,so i need to purchase a 2,5mm ready for the build.
will the diff rings need sanding to flat them? using the old wet and dry grading method? I`m really looking forward to the release of this car,buying and building it. And having such great detailed help at hand makes me believe i`ve made the right choice.Thankyou.
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#11
29-09-2011
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Quote:
I was the guy in the green hoody asking all the Questions.  Cheers
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#13
29-09-2011
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Make sure that 2.5mm driver is long, at least 160mm from tip to handle base! Ball ended is a definite advantage too!
I don't sand my diff plates, never have on any car, but I know a fair few people that do. I'd say up to you really.
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