Monkey Build

[lordnikon]

Ummmed and ahhhed about which kit to get, tossed up between the monkey or the Rat and went for the monkey in the end. Super quick delivery from Modelsport (next day) and i was like a pig in mud.

I had a micro receiver and radio gear already, along with a modelsport RV 12 sniper ESC (http://www.modelsport.co.uk/modelspo...products/31550), bought an LRP GT2 Turbo motor at the sametime (http://www.modelsport.co.uk/lrp-gt4-...products/37675) as i read afew reports of the supplied Ansmann motor being abit junk.

Must admit first impressions were good, went through the kit, all there and accounted for. Flicked through the instructions and all seemed clear and easy enough. I must admit that 95% of the kit lines up and goes together easy enough. I used non-supplied upgraded 3mm screws in the critical areas as the supplied allens are very easy to round off. The only problems i experienced were lining up some of the rear holes was alittle off, fettled and finally all together without too much hassle. The diff spring needed grinding down slightly, it was just alittle to large to go into the drive cup. Rear wing seems to catch on the rear suspension so thats been cut down slightly. Other than that it went together nicely.

Tried it out with a 7.4v lipo and it goes ok. Quick enough imo for a returning newbie and handles really well. Standard shocks will be ditched soon for adjustables, and i ball raced the entire car when i built it with a kit from rcbearings (£10). Once I've spent some time fine tuning it then I'll ceramic bearing the drive and make sure everything is all as it should be. Will probably upgrade to a brushless setup once i am happy with the handling and setup of it also.

I've built plenty of Tamiya kits in the past and this one stacks up ok. You can tell its been built to a budget but for the money i dont think you can go far wrong tbh. Bring on the racing .....

[daz]

Did you fit crush tubes inbetween the rear hub bearings?

[lordnikon]

Daz, not that i remember, the bearings just slid in the rear hubs..... is it a worthwhile mod ??

[daz]

Yes, because as you tighten the wheel nut up you are putting pressure on the bearings and there is nothing to stop the bearings from collapsing. The brass bearing dont need any as they are solid. I just used the same size bearing and cut the outer race off, its a perfect fit.

[Riblau]

Hey did you require any other tools or materials other than what came in the box?

[lordnikon]

Originally Posted by Riblau

Hey did you require any other tools or materials other than what came in the box?

sorry i didn't see this until now, everything required is in the box, only things you need are the electronics

ESC
Transmitter and Receiver
Servo
Battery

It comes with a basic brushed 'clash' motor

[billyboy9002]

hi guys

any idea where i can get a up rated screw set for my monkey from?

cheers

[lordnikon]

I've replaced some of my key area screws with 3mm pan heads, plenty of hardware stores sell them. 10mm long too

[billyboy9002]

cheers buddy, will have a look in the one near me

[VintageRacer]

I'm building one at the moment and have bought screws from here http://www.spaldingfasteners.co.uk/

I've got the front end together and just put the motor plate on the gearbox.

They don't have every size required but most (and those sizes that they don't have, they have something close that will do the job). Cost around £12 including postage, and I have spares of all the screws. The only significant missing ones are the 27mm long screws that go through the gearbox to the motor plate. They have 30mm which might do, but since I didn't know how much space I'd have beyond the motor plate I didn't risk it, although I guess you could grind some down.

The M3x10mm had to be cap head rather than button head, but that hasn't been a problem so far. Also got 16mm countersunk instead of 15mm, but that didn't cause a problem at the front.

So far happy with them.

[VintageRacer]

3 of the 3x10mm screws at the back of the gear box had to be button head screws because the larger cap heads didn't allow some parts to sit in the right place

Car now built, electrics in, time to go to the park for a test drive.

[wrcallar]

I just built mine, not to sure how to set the diff or slipper tightness though. Any ideas/tips? I think I screwed the diff too tight as the plastic black bit that has the two sections that stick out collapesed in on itself... lol.

Also I had 4 little bearings left over from rcbearings kit and I can't work out where they go! lol.

Also can you link me to what I need to buy in terms of crush tubes? I really don't know what they are. Thanks

[chris brown]

Its ok to have the bearings left over. I assume they are the flanged ones. They are for the steering posts but ansmann include bearings in the kit anway so your car isnt missing any bearings.
With the diff, tighten it up fully but gradually, while twisting the diff now and again so everything settles properly. Dont go and over tighten it though,, you dont need to be Mr T (sucker!). Once its carefully fully tightened then back it off 1/8th of a turn.
With the slipper, you need to set it at the track really. It shoul slip for about a foot or so before biting.

[VintageRacer]

Originally Posted by chris brown

They are for the steering posts but ansmann include bearings in the kit anway so your car isnt missing any bearings

+1 bought the same bearing kit from RCBearings and had 4 flanged bearings left as they were included in the kit for the steering mechanism.

[wrcallar]

Originally Posted by chris brown

Its ok to have the bearings left over. I assume they are the flanged ones. They are for the steering posts but ansmann include bearings in the kit anway so your car isnt missing any bearings.
With the diff, tighten it up fully but gradually, while twisting the diff now and again so everything settles properly. Dont go and over tighten it though,, you dont need to be Mr T (sucker!). Once its carefully fully tightened then back it off 1/8th of a turn.
With the slipper, you need to set it at the track really. It shoul slip for about a foot or so before biting.

Thanks, what do you mean it should slip for a foot? How do I go about testing that? At the moment it's pretty tight so i'm guessing it's not actually doing anything (don't matter as havn't used it yet due to a wierd servo problem) so should probably loosen it. A guy said that he had it so that the screw was only just on the rod thing... mines like 4/5 complete turns on I think!