22 slipper settings - nightmare.

[andys]

Anyone got any mods / tips for setting the slipper / diff ?

I thought I was good at this stuff, but after rebuilding my 22 diff with ceramic balls, 3 meetings in it began to slip.

I had to keep tightening the slipper a touch as it's a real knife edge getting it spot on, it was slipping far too much so I kept tweaking it. End result was that the diff started making that horrible 'squawking' noise and it slipped instead !

Diff now feels horrible and needs a rebuild

Also, the slipper gets bloody hot - is that ok ?

[steveproracing]

Your diff was too slack by sound of things Andy. However you are right about the slipper being a nightmare to set. The solution is simple however. Get an ae spur and pads. They fit straight on and and the adjustment range is much wider!!!

[rcfurtado]

Hi,
What ae spur do you use 78 tooth or 75? Do you use ae slipper hubs also?
Thanks
Ricardo

[AfroP]

which side of the car do you have your duff nut set to?
if your screw is on the same side as the slipper it could cause your diff nut to loosen more often.
most people use the AE T nut as a replacement for the losi kit one

[stegger]

Standard 22 spur = 76 I'm going for a 75 AE spur, forgot that you could change between the Losi and AE. With the AE pads and spur it has more surface area over the pad so i think this is why you would get more of an adjustment window ?

[Gnarly Old Dog]

@andys - sounds to me like your slipper plates have glazed. Once they do that, the slipper becomes almost impossible to set right. You can flip the pads (or even in a pinch scrape the glazing from the pads with a scalpel blade) but once the alloy slipper plates glaze there's nothing I've ever been able to do other than replace them.
Its deffo important to run the diff in before running it in anger - I build mine using standard kit parts except of the new Tungsten Carbide diff balls and use plenty of the kit grease. Once assembled, I tighten to the point where I just can't slip it in my hands when I've got 2 hex wrenches in the outdrives and trying to turn the gear.
I then install it and run it in on 1/8 throttle for 20 seconds whilst holding one wheel - then repeat whilst holding the other wheel. Recheck tightness and adjust (it will need re-tightening) and then repeat for another 20 seconds.
After a further check and re-tighten, I normally blip the throttle on the 3rd repeat to about half throttle (just so as the tyre balloons) but don't hold it there for any longer than a blip. Do that for both wheels and then final adjustment.

I guess experience plays a big part in understanding where to start your slipper setting at but I would also mark the outer slipper plate with a permanent marker pen so you can visually see when that slips whilst holding the left rear wheel and the spur gear (mid car) or right rear wheel and spur gear (rear car) and turning the free wheel with your other hand.

Glazed plates will make the slipper almost useless - but with non glazed plates and good pads, you will want the slipper to slip just before the diff does - so that it protects the diff.
The slipper is not there to aid traction on low grip - if you're running it that loose, you will glaze the plates real quick. It's there to help protect the diff. On our high bite surfaces over here, it's still possible to pop wheelies out of corners or at mid throttle - even with a correctly set slipper but I normally get about 3 meetings out of a diff before it needs a rebuild (more in lower bite conditions with less power)

HTH.

[andys]

Thanks for all the info guys.

Glazed slipper plates ? How do i know if they are glazed - new one on me that.

As regards setting the diff / slipper I do a very similar thing to the 'Old-Dog'. Only thing is on my associated slipper, i've never knowingly had glazed plates, also the diff doesn't need rebuilding every 3 meetings, more like every 3 years for me !!!

Losi diffs of old were also bullet proof - so what's happened to make these such high maintenance ?

Steve - i've put an associated slipper and pads on, but the associated spur mounting hole is ever so slightly larger than the losi one, so the spur moves around a little - not much.
I assume you haven't had any problems with this ?

Also, I rebuilt the diff - just flipped the diff plates, no new balls at all and it feels lovely and smooth. There seemed to be quite a lot of dirt in there that was making the diff horrible....



Cheers.
Andy

[Gnarly Old Dog]

When you look at your slipper plates they should look clean right across their entire face but often, you can see evidence of where the slipper pad has been slipping.
The glazing is like a polishing effect that you'll see because the part of the plate that is touched by the slipper pad will have a different surface finish than the innermost area of the plate.

It's like the pad residue has polished the plate surface and where it has become hot, the residue has coated the plate which now means it can't slip and act as freely as before.

I'm not sure about bulletproof diffs - LOL. Last year I couldn't get one meeting out of a rear diff in my old CR2 but I do know what you mean - I've had 4WD rear diffs last ages but a 2WD one seems to go real quick. But I also know of other non-losi diff owners who struggle in high bite conditions to complete a single race meeting on one diff. Personally, I think it's a combination of the amount of grip we experience in the summer months and the aggrssive motors we like to use. When the grip is not there (like in the winter), diffs seem to last much longer.
I also find I blow diffs in finals or when I'm racing and on it. When I drive like a girl in qualifying, my diffs last much longer :-)

One other thing I'm also finding is that if I go 3 meetings without a rebuild then I've already damaged my diff balls - and the new rebuild doesn't last as long. Thrust race balls are vital as well. They may feel smooth but often, they really affect the performance feel of the diff and they're often overlooked during a 'quick' rebuild.

HTH