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#1
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Hi, I am not sure whether get them or not. Has anyone tried them yet? How are they? Any pic?
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#2
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I got the rear one, as I helped design them, work great, really strong.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#3
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And who did all the hard work Steve
![]() Got the rear (as it was my idea!) and have had no problems at all, in fact I am still running the prototype one that doesn't have as much material around the camber link area and it still rocks. Haven't bothered with the front as IMO it is bling, but the rear was needed to make effective use of the TRF shocks (no internal limiters). Ian
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#4
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Yes, Ian did all the hard work, lol
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#5
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Thanks guys! I think I'll get them when my pocket recovers
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#6
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Hi
I have front and rear fitted on my Baldre below ![]() ![]() ![]() I think they look good,well better than the standard towers don`t know how they hold up yet but i`m betting they do the job well.
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#7
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I use both the front and rear towers. They are fantastic and I would never go back to the stock towers.
My main motivation for using the front tower was to make it easier to install or remove the front shocks for maintenance. Removing the long screw from the stock plastic tower was always a chore. The improvement in strength is also a bonus. |
#8
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They look like 3 Racing towers to me, not the Atomic Carbon ones. The rear tower is definitely different (see the picture attached to this: http://www.oople.com/forums/showpost...1&postcount=25 comparing the standard tower with the AC one). The AC rear is thicker and in one piece. DCM snapped one of those in about 30 seconds (well, might have been a bit longer than that ![]()
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#9
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They are 3Racing ones, and, erm... I wished I hadn't wasted my money!!
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#10
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If you have a standard DB01 and replace the front and rear shock towers for Atomic Carbon ones, do you need to change any of the attachments or are they a straight replacement?
Ta ![]() |
#11
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You will need to cinfigure the shock top mounting, so longer screws and spaceing, and the inner camber link ball studs will need changing too, but it is so worth it, with the rear tower, as you can get better ride height adjustment, and less droop.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#12
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Cheers DCM - I guess you just get the carbon shock towers when buying them from Atomic Carbon, all other parts will have to be bought separately if I can't find them within my spares box. I'm a bit lazy, so was hoping that all of the bits would come with them.
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#13
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sorry i know im bringing up an old topic here, just wanted to know if i needed the shock towers drilled slightly differently, is that something that can be done? basically i would like the holes for the shock screws drilled for the standard imperial screw size used on losi cars, and the rear wing mount holes to be drilled a different width apart to accomodate losi wing mounts
Thanks Migs |
#14
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No need to drill the holes for the shock bolts as the Losi ones fit straight through (I run Losi shocks).
I've also drilled the additional bottom holes needed to fit the Losi wing mounts (the top holes are the same). I'm still running the Tamiya wing mounts at present, but wanted to be ready to swap should I break one trackside. |
#15
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as usual peetbee you have all the good info, thanks for the help
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#16
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Has anyone noticed that the top mounting holes on the front tower are actually lower than the stock tower? I didn't notice until I compared the two on top of each other. Well, I actually only noticed when the chassis would not bottom out - I installed the newer HL shock bodies, used 4mm spacers inside the shocks & saw that the buggy bottomed out on the shocks, the chassis sat 1 cm above the table! The difference between the holes is maybe 2mm, but once on the buggy it made a huge difference.
There might be enough room to drill one or two new holes above the stock hole locations - I may try it, the part is not much use to me otherwise. FYI - I'm racing on carpet indoors. Maybe it's not as noticeable on dirt where more travel is used? |
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