FS-FS2 Differences

[sfry61]

I'm sure this has been covered before...somewhere, but could someone explain what the difference is between the two cars. Think I've got the fs version, i'm not totally sure

[RogerM]

If you post up pictures of the rear end of the car (a rear shot, under chassis and a wheel hub shot will do) I'll tell you what you have.

The main differences are;

body (the loverly shoot shell)
chassis (no cell slots) ... both easy to see

The performance differences are;

rear inner hinge pin spaced wider
rear inner hinge pin mounts are the adjustable aluminium versions (LAW36&37)
rear driveshaft axles (narrower version ... can't use the proline adapters with FS2 geometry)
rear wishbones
rear hubs

There where a couple of other little bits here and there but they were running changes so when you buy spares (rarely as the cars are so strong and reliable) you'll get them anyway.

Either car will do you well, both great cars. It was more evolution than revolution but I will say I had to completley change my setup when I moved from the FS to the FS2, both front and rear. The FS2 is a bit more stable than the FS so wants to be setup a little more aggressively.

I love mine, really nice to drive and super easy to live with as it needs less attention than a pet rock!!!

[sfry61]

It's got cut outs in the chassis for cells and plastic rear suspension mounts so its the fs version.

It's nice that you done have to upgrade alot to turn it into a fs2, i'll proberly just get the ally rear suspension mounts and rear hubs and just replace the rest when it breaks

Thanks for clearing this up for me

[RogerM]

In order of importance I would do the following;

LAW37 (rear ali mount)
LAW36 (front ali mount)

wishbones and driveshafts
rear hubs (probably recomend the UM516-0 ali hubs .. get all the outer camber link options in one hub and a larger bearing too)

The body is a matter or personal preference.
The chassis doesn't seem to offer anything extra in performance terms, I still run the slotted chassis on my car and will till it breaks.

There is nothing wrong with the FS and some people prefer the way it handles (a little more 'direct' but less hooked up than an FS2 if that makes sense)

If you need anything info or advice wise then just shout, plenty of Kyosho drivers on her who will help.

[Neil Skull]

Originally Posted by sfry61

It's got cut outs in the chassis for cells and plastic rear suspension mounts so its the fs version.

It's nice that you done have to upgrade alot to turn it into a fs2, i'll proberly just get the ally rear suspension mounts and rear hubs and just replace the rest when it breaks

Thanks for clearing this up for me

I still run an FS1 but when something breaks i change to FS2.

The biggest must have IMHO is the Bodyshell.

get a FS2 chassis for a spare and note that if you change one of the top deck to FS2 you must change all the top plates too as its thicker than the FS1. they all came in same bag.

[RogerM]

Interesting info about the top decks Neil .... mmmm might just get a set as I'd like a fraction (and I bet it's only a fraction) more stiffness in the chassis assembly.

Have to agree about the shell, loverly looking thing and so much room under it compared to the previous ones.