probs with the 22

[hayalsop]

Bought a Losi 22 last week and ran it locally on a carpet track.
I ran minipins with 2 rows cut off, kit 'mid' set up and the weight kit.

The problem I'm having is the rear end not holding its line through the corners, It turns in beautifully (just how I want it), but then mid corner it just throws the back end round. To keep it inline I need to keep the throttle on which turns into understeer.

And suggestions on what to do with the links etc to stop it doing this?

I just sold my Cougar for this thinking that it would be better. But so far all I've done is struggle and results have dropped big time.

[sunbeam]

LOL, I just sold my 22 to buy a Cougar !!!!!!!

I didn't even finish building my 22 before I sold it !!

Counld'nt be doing with all that crushed in R/C !!

The 22 it very clearly a US car built for the US market. The metric bolts and mid motor config is just a way of selling more over here. If it was ever meant to be mid car, Losi would have given you more room for the R/C.

[hayalsop]

Yeah it was a problem getting everything in.

I'm starting to wish I hadn't bought mine now.

Why do we do these things? lol
Just had the Cougar perfect, then sold it.

[Chris56]

I had a similar problem on 1st run but solution is simple:

On rear use 2mm spacers on the outer camber link, but none on the inner.

On the front use a 2mm spacer on the inner camber link and a 1mm spacer on the outer

Fellow club member told me to do this, worked a treat

[hayalsop]

cool, I'll give it a try.
Hopefully I've not wasted my time

[mark-rc]

Originally Posted by hayalsop

Bought a Losi 22 last week and ran it locally on a carpet track.
I ran minipins with 2 rows cut off, kit 'mid' set up and the weight kit.

The problem I'm having is the rear end not holding its line through the corners, It turns in beautifully (just how I want it), but then mid corner it just throws the back end round. To keep it inline I need to keep the throttle on which turns into understeer.

And suggestions on what to do with the links etc to stop it doing this?

I just sold my Cougar for this thinking that it would be better. But so far all I've done is struggle and results have dropped big time.

PM sent

[telboy]

I ended up running the rear links long and on the outer hole. You need to work some of the hub off though so it doesn't rub on the link. Also went harder on the rear spring, it helped strangely enough.

[t8rtot]

Its not your cougar, its longer and has a different weight distribution, as well as different suspension geometry. Sounds like a little setup work and a different lounge thru the corner will suite you just fine. No buyers remorse needed

[stegger]

Originally Posted by sunbeam

LOL, I just sold my 22 to buy a Cougar !!!!!!!

I didn't even finish building my 22 before I sold it !!

Counld'nt be doing with all that crushed in R/C !!

The 22 it very clearly a US car built for the US market. The metric bolts and mid motor config is just a way of selling more over here. If it was ever meant to be mid car, Losi would have given you more room for the R/C.

The 22 was developed in both the UK and U.S fella.

[Stick_E]

Hi guys,

I have just had a quick read through these threads and wanted to mention, forgetting all the camber link changes and weight kits so forth, a very quick and easy way to get the car to stop diving in and switching ends mid corner is....

On the front of the car the tapered plastic shim that gets screwed between the chassis and front bulkhead which Is what is built with in the manual has this effect, in 'bag F' of your original building bags will be a few extras I.E pistons and amongst this extras bag will also be the same spastic shim which is fitted to your car as of the manual but instead of being tapered it is what I call just a flat shim, remove the tapered one compare the two and the one you want on the car when running on front mini pins on carpet is the 'flat shim'. This will make the rear end of the car hold the corner all the way through corner and allowing you to jump back on the gas exiting the corner with out any worry of the rear end trying to over take the front, please try this before selling it as I'm sure you will be satisfied with the difference of this simple change.

[Darren Boyle]

Darren, make sure you fit "plastic" shims to your car and not "spastic" ones before you offend anyone

[simoncrabb]

Them front shims, does that change castor?

[RDG 40]

Originally Posted by Stick_E

Hi guys,

I have just had a quick read through these threads and wanted to mention, forgetting all the camber link changes and weight kits so forth, a very quick and easy way to get the car to stop diving in and switching ends mid corner is....

On the front of the car the tapered plastic shim that gets screwed between the chassis and front bulkhead which Is what is built with in the manual has this effect, in 'bag F' of your original building bags will be a few extras I.E pistons and amongst this extras bag will also be the same spastic shim which is fitted to your car as of the manual but instead of being tapered it is what I call just a flat shim, remove the tapered one compare the two and the one you want on the car when running on front mini pins on carpet is the 'flat shim'. This will make the rear end of the car hold the corner all the way through corner and allowing you to jump back on the gas exiting the corner with out any worry of the rear end trying to over take the front, please try this before selling it as I'm sure you will be satisfied with the difference of this simple change.

jus curious how that works, ive got in my head tapered or not its same size?

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by hayalsop

Bought a Losi 22 last week and ran it locally on a carpet track.
I ran minipins with 2 rows cut off, kit 'mid' set up and the weight kit.

The problem I'm having is the rear end not holding its line through the corners, It turns in beautifully (just how I want it), but then mid corner it just throws the back end round. To keep it inline I need to keep the throttle on which turns into understeer.

And suggestions on what to do with the links etc to stop it doing this?

I just sold my Cougar for this thinking that it would be better. But so far all I've done is struggle and results have dropped big time.

Firstly, what springs, pistons and oils are you running? On a carpet track on mini pins, I would start on 4 hole 55s in the front with 37.5wt oil with Blue springs and 6 hole 55s in the rear with kit yellow springs and 30 - 32.5wt oil

I would then start by raising the rear inner camber link and possibly shortening the link on the hub. Try 2mm spacer on the inside and 3mm on the hub - either the C hole on the hub or the E hole if you want it more locked in.

What you describe is also what I found with the LRC rear block - which is why I like the HRC block. I just found HRC blocks are more consistent throughout the entire turn.

I'd also add TLR4151 weight to the gearbox / shock tower and, for high bite, I would be looking to run my car quite heavy with an under lipo weight as well.

For info, whenever I have run on carpet at Taplow or Maritime, I ended up cutting 2 rows off the outside and 2 rows off the inside. You might still be over tyred on the front if you have only cut 2 outer rows possibly.

[Gnarly Old Dog]

Originally Posted by simoncrabb

Them front shims, does that change castor?

Yes - but by changing the front kick angle. The tapered wedge will reduce the kick angle by 5 degrees and also reduce the caster by the same amount. Obviously, you can alter the caster further and independently by fitted any of the option caster blocks but changing the kick angle by using the different shim will affect the caster correspondingly by 5 degrees.

HTH

[Legacy555]

Originally Posted by Stick_E

Hi guys,

I have just had a quick read through these threads and wanted to mention, forgetting all the camber link changes and weight kits so forth, a very quick and easy way to get the car to stop diving in and switching ends mid corner is....

On the front of the car the tapered plastic shim that gets screwed between the chassis and front bulkhead which Is what is built with in the manual has this effect, in 'bag F' of your original building bags will be a few extras I.E pistons and amongst this extras bag will also be the same spastic shim which is fitted to your car as of the manual but instead of being tapered it is what I call just a flat shim, remove the tapered one compare the two and the one you want on the car when running on front mini pins on carpet is the 'flat shim'. This will make the rear end of the car hold the corner all the way through corner and allowing you to jump back on the gas exiting the corner with out any worry of the rear end trying to over take the front, please try this before selling it as I'm sure you will be satisfied with the difference of this simple change.

Put stagger ribs on the front. Dont stretch them all the way across the wheel, just 3/4 of the way - so you'll have some of the wheel showing onthe inside - dont worry about this. Don't use any foam, and slash across each stagger with a craft knife. it'll be alot easier to drive

[orinoco]

Anyone had a problem with the driveshaft pins (diff outdrive side) coming slack and hitting the bottom of the rear shock tower mount in mid config. It happened to me tonight on a high grip carpet track, when i heard an annoying ticking noise when cornering and thought it was gearbox or diff related. On investigation i noticed the pin was not central in the outdrive and was contacting the shock mount bottom when cornering as the driveshaft moves in towards the diff when the suspension is compressed. I managed to press it back in and this stopped the ticking noise for now but it'll probably do the same again. I will try and speak to the shop where I bought it and see if I can get some new ones on warranty.

[reg]

there was another chap had the same problem,he posted on here,they should replace it but might be worth dropping him a PM just to see how he got on

[Wacker 2]

Originally Posted by Gnarly Old Dog

I would then start by raising the rear inner camber link and possibly shortening the link on the hub. Try 2mm spacer on the inside and 3mm on the hub - either the C hole on the hub or the E hole if you want it more locked in.

i've seen a few people doing this and i wanted to ask a question...

is there a particular reason for raising the camber link so much as with 3mm under the rear outer camber ball makes the ball cup almost rub on the wheel when fitted?! if you had no spacers under the inner rear camber ball, and put only 1mm spacer under the outer ball, this would give you the same camber link angle.

Are there any different handling characteristics between running the link so high???

[Chris56]

Originally Posted by Wacker 2

i've seen a few people doing this and i wanted to ask a question...

is there a particular reason for raising the camber link so much as with 3mm under the rear outer camber ball makes the ball cup almost rub on the wheel when fitted?! if you had no spacers under the inner rear camber ball, and put only 1mm spacer under the outer ball, this would give you the same camber link angle.

Are there any different handling characteristics between running the link so high???

Quite impressive what a difference it makes - the the height of the link affects how much the camber changes by as the car leans into a corner.

When I first ran tha car as kit setup, the car was slow to utrn into a corner, but halfway through the back end would step out too much.

By moving the front 2mm spacer from outer to inner, and moving rear 2mm spacer from inner to outer the car turns in quicker but doesn't over steer as it half way through the turn