snapped ball stud connectors trf 511

[m1buc]

hi, I was wanting to know if anyone knows where to buy some upgraded ball stud connectors. the size is 5x9mm (tamiya part no is 9805611). the ones supplied with kit don't seem to be very strong i have snapped 2 now. they always seem to snap flush with housing so you have to drill them out, a right pain.
i hope some one can help. many thanks.

[mattybucks]

Originally Posted by m1buc

hi, I was wanting to know if anyone knows where to buy some upgraded ball stud connectors. the size is 5x9mm (tamiya part no is 9805611). the ones supplied with kit don't seem to be very strong i have snapped 2 now. they always seem to snap flush with housing so you have to drill them out, a right pain.
i hope some one can help. many thanks.

You need to get some ti hotbodies cyclone ballstuds and losi size ballcups, i use the rpm ones. I can get you the part numbers if you want me too. Get some short and longer threads.

[DaveG28]

You can get hardened tamiya studs then keep standard ballcups!

Look on the trf511 parts page on trfracing.co.uk, it's the 5x8hard hex head connectors. Various HK places will have them in stock!

[Rich D]

Part number 53969 I think

[Rich D]

Sorry wrong thread on my phone doh

[m1buc]

thanks lads for all the advice.

think i will go with the hardened tamiya ones and keep the same ball cups.

just before i order can any one just confirm this is correct part no 53969 and they are the right ones on trfracing.co.uk? it does not have photo and only say's

" Tamiya 53969 hard hex head connectors (2 packs)"

after looking around on net looks like they are black in colour and come in pack of 5???

cheers

[Rich D]

Yep they are the ones. They come included if you buy the upgrade rear alloy hubs. The zero degree versions are due for release soon.

[mattybucks]

I found that the standard tamiya ball cups were how can i put this crap. On a high grip surface they pop off when cornering. Do yourself a favour, get the hotbodies/losi combo.

If you want the hardend ballstuds and some tamiya ballcups I have a load that have only beenused once!!

[m1buc]

sorted mate on order, thanks again lads.

[muratti]

Originally Posted by Rich D

Yep they are the ones. They come included if you buy the upgrade rear alloy hubs. The zero degree versions are due for release soon.

Hey Rich hope you´re doing well. Now as the zero degrees are due for release soon do you know how much degrees the old ones have? Part number is 53962. I didn´t find anything about how much degress those have.....
The 0.5 and 1.0 from the TRF201 can be used on the 511 right?

[DaveG28]

Originally Posted by muratti

Hey Rich hope you´re doing well. Now as the zero degrees are due for release soon do you know how much degrees the old ones have? Part number is 53962. I didn´t find anything about how much degress those have.....
The 0.5 and 1.0 from the TRF201 can be used on the 511 right?

The old ones are also 0 degree!

[Rich D]

Originally Posted by DaveG28

The old ones are also 0 degree!

Hi Johannes !

Dave is correct. Yes, the 201 hubs fit the 511 as both cars use the same rear wishbones and driveshaft assemnlies. I ran the 0.5`s on my 511 outdoors. Difficult to notice any difference other than the lack of play in the bearings compared to 53962. You have to change the spacers and shimming for the driveshafts until they feel right, other than that, a direct fit.

Dave - when i sold you my spare set of 53962 i didnt know that there would be larger bearing models due for imminent release - promise ! See you at Worksop anyway mate. I wanna be chomping at your heels this year

[Rich D]

Originally Posted by mattybucks

I found that the standard tamiya ball cups were how can i put this crap. On a high grip surface they pop off when cornering. Do yourself a favour, get the hotbodies/losi combo.

If you want the hardend ballstuds and some tamiya ballcups I have a load that have only beenused once!!

Yeah i had heard that some had suffered with this. Ive never popped one of the old ones off however ?! Maybe a duff batch ?

Anyway, the grey team ball cups are now readily available guys so no need to change studs to imperial for Losi balls.

Part number for these is 54257

[muratti]

Originally Posted by Rich D

Hi Johannes !

Dave is correct. Yes, the 201 hubs fit the 511 as both cars use the same rear wishbones and driveshaft assemnlies. I ran the 0.5`s on my 511 outdoors. Difficult to notice any difference other than the lack of play in the bearings compared to 53962. You have to change the spacers and shimming for the driveshafts until they feel right, other than that, a direct fit.

Dave - when i sold you my spare set of 53962 i didnt know that there would be larger bearing models due for imminent release - promise ! See you at Worksop anyway mate. I wanna be chomping at your heels this year

Cheers Rich!

Thanks again for your help!

[muratti]

Sorry for maybe hijackig this thread, the front Aluminium Caster Blocks with 12 degress enhance grip on the front? The 12 degrees are for the "kickup" of the Caster block?

[Rich D]

Originally Posted by muratti

Cheers Rich!

Thanks again for your help!

Any time mate i owe you bigtime. In answer to your other post, i run the 12 degree front castor blocks all the time. Primarily for strength and reliability. Im not an expert on setup but i know more castor means more high speed steering, less castor means more low speed steering.

HTH

[muratti]

Ok mate thanks! Think i need 10 degrees then, my track has lots of low speed curves.

[Rich D]

I'd wait for Lee to chip in before ordering the 10 degree blocks. The car generates loads of low speed steering with the 12 degree blocks too.

[muratti]

Ok, thanks Rich, Lee where are you?

[DaveG28]

Guys, as far as I know Lee uses 12 degree, but it's down to personal preference! I think Bavid for example uses 10 degree a fair amount to get more steering, personally I find 10 degrees bad on slow corners unless it's high grip, as I end up over pivoting and struggling to get the back in line!

No easy answer sorry, but if you can find them I'd try the plastic ones until you know which you'll use, then go alloy!