ball diff

[reg]

Hi,iv been reading that you need to set a ball diff just tight enought not to slip,it doesnt tell you how to do this or how to know if its slipping,
could someone explain what to do to get it to slip so i know what im looking for,its not broken in yet so after i have i want to get it right,that way i can tune it rather than just think yeah it will do
thanks
Vark

[stoff]

Hold the spur gear and the left wheel still (if you've got a slipper clutch tighten that up all the way). Then try to rotate the right wheel. If you can the diff is slipping, if you can't then it's not!

I've found the best way to set your diff after a rebuild is to run it in first by holding one wheel for 30 seconds while using 1/4 throttle on the TX. The hold the other for another 30 seconds then tighten the diff a little. Repeat until the diff is locked whilst smooth. 2 of each should do it. Remember not to overtighten at the start of the process it's best to start with a loose diff first.

If you want the balls to grip on the plates better 'key' the plates by carefully sanding them with some 1000 grade wet&dry paper.

HiH

[reg]

Thanks Stoff,that makes it easy to understand,what sort of force should i use to try and move the wheel,as if im screwing say a screw into a plastic part on a kit,or as though i am putting the grub screw in a drive shaft,

[stoff]

Depends on the power of the electrics really. In mod you're going to need the diff to be set tighter than when using a milder motor. I'm not a buggy person so I'd guess the majority of the strain is taken out on the slipper anyway.

It's hard to say really how much torque to apply to the wheel. It's all based on your own feel.

[SlowOne]

It's impossible to say what the force is, but I would say that if you can turn it, it's still loose. Stoff's method for break in is excellent. Ball diffs work with very high point loads on the balls, and that causes them to make 'tracks' in the diff plates. The depth of those tracks is enough to effectively loosen the diff, and most of that effect occurs during the first run. Following Stoffs method eliminates a lot of that problem, and it is still worth checking again after the first 'proper' race with the car.

Ball diffs last longer, and work better, if they never slip. In off-road, with the slipper clutch, diffs should have no slip and be glass smooth. After a couple of rebuilds, you'll get the hang of how much force to apply, but on first acquaintance, if you can move it, tighten it!! HTH

[reg]

thanks for all the info chaps