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so I have a db01r, built to kit settings and the steering is just too much off power, and the back end rotates around too much so that its hard to go around corners unless I use very little steering input.
So far, I have used the smallest pistons & AE blue front springs to stiffen up the front end. Also moved one hole out on the front shock tower. 35wt oil. On the rear, I have used 30wt oil, standard spring, moved one hole in on rear tower. ride height 1mm higher at front at 23mm and 22mm rear. front diff is tighter than rear, no slippage. I will use a heavier oil in the front next time. Is there anything else I can do to tame down the steering? Maybe front stabilizer? |
#2
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Mine is now sweet 1st, shocks in the stock positions 2nd asscociated blue front, 42.5 losi oil 3rd stock rear springs, 37.5 losi oil by the looks of it you know what you need to do, heavier front shock oil |
#3
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On my 01-R ive used 80 weight oil and hard springs, ive also used front and rear anti roll bars. You might want to try cutting the edges down on the tyre treads, or using 2wd front tyres.
Jk
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DB01-R/RRR TRF 503 Carbon TRF 201XM,Fast Attack Vehicle.RC 10 Classic. Top Force Evo,Optima Mid, Mardave Cobra. |
#4
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What surface are we talking?
Your ride height is off - the front should be lower than the rear by 1-2mm. Stabilizer would help. What auto brake setting do you have on your speedo? |
#5
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Could you not just turn down the steering rate on you radio
![]() Dont mean to sound funny but depending on the track i turn it up or down....for more or less steering. I use a front stabilizer on 40wt oil,no rear on 30wt oil and set the front a little lower than the rear (ride height). Andy
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#6
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Do you mean there is too much bite / grip on the front and you want less.
Carl |
#7
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put the optional chassis on, the DB01R chassis is super stiff, which will lose you rear traction mid corner. There should be no need to go up silly high on the oil, on my DB01, using the optional softer chassis, I am on 35wt front, 30wt rear, and no issue.
You could also look at your tyres and think about trimming off some tread.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#8
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I run losi shocks on the car, in the front i have red pistons and run 40 wt oil, with losi blue spring which are a similar stiffness to the associated ones. ive found the rear of the car holds on really well, it was one of the things that really gave me confidence in it was the ability to have a pointy front end whilst not to the point where it wants to swap ends on you everywhere, it'll only be a few little changes and you'll have it dialled |
#9
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First off, thanks for all the replies. I would love getting a tamiya competitive against all the other cars, including my own B44 and durango. The problem is only off power, that it rotates too much. Will try some changes next race, however due to parts supply cannot do as much as I want.
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![]() Thats a drastic change. I might just put a front anti roll bar only to take away some steering. Quote:
Wouldnt a lower front induce more steering? which is what I dont want zero drag brake Quote:
![]() yep the 40wt is next on my to do list at the next meet. Front stabilizer will be the following meet, as I need to wait for parts to arrive. I didnt know about setting the front lower than rear, but since someone else has mentioned it also, will give that a try. I'm just use to having the front 1mm higher, as thats what we do in hard packed clay 2wd. Quote:
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The only one I can find is 54041 Carbon reinforced chassis (with cell cutouts and heat sink hole) and that doesnt sound like its more flexible than the original db01 chassis. or is the option chassis the original db01 chassis? does the optional chassis have the cut out for the heatsink like on the db01r? Not that I think it really matters, not sure if it does much anyway. generally on the fronts the tire to use is worn blockheads on our track |
#10
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yes, I use the original chassis as the High Traction one loses rear end grip mid corner.
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#11
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I have a spare brand new Durga chassis if your after one? Drop me a PM if your interested?
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#12
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I got a spare to, but I am most definitely holding on to it... knowing my luck, as soon as I sold it, I would need it!!
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dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man! |
#13
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![]() im in australia, and I get my parts from HK. I will need to put in a order soon anyway for other stuff. |
#14
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http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/rc-db0...h=595_744_1096 |
#15
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I think he means that one, as that is the original db01 chassis.
then there is also ,54041 Carbon reinforced chassis (with cell cutouts and heat sink hole) and then there is the db01r chassis with heat sink hole I nearly forgot I have a standard db01 lying around somewhere, so will use that chassis for my db01r. |
#16
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The chassis on the R already has a lot more flex then the stock DB-01 chassis. I've driven both on hard packed clay and both are fine with about the same setup as yours.
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««201, 511&503 |
#17
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There's 3 chassis available for the DB01 now, the original (#9335492), the carbon reinforced (#54041) [DCM that's the one you tried I think] and the DB01R chassis, also called high traction (#54204).
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#18
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#19
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Which tires are you using btw?
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««201, 511&503 |
#20
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vic
![]() at our track losi block heads, taper pins & jconcepts double dees work well at the front. rears losi x2000 |
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