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Old 13-05-2010
inferno_4wd inferno_4wd is offline
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Default CAT SX Newcommer - Please Help!

Hi Guys, (I appologise in advance for these very basic questions but i'm a bit lost and would really appreciate some help!)

I have recently purchaced a CAT SX (Lipo edition) off of eBay to upgrade from my much loved CAT 2000EC, however all that i have is the Chassis + Body, i have no manual, box or spares. I was wondering what "In box" spares or parts i might be missing so that i can get them ordered.

I know the internal gear ratio can be adjusted, but again are the additional gears required normally supplied in the box? I have downloaded the manual from the website but i can see anything that really explains, just the ratio chart, but which is low, medium and high? Also which gears or pulleys are the ones that need changing?

Also to start i'm going to be running an Orion Experiance 2 motor/ESC (4000Kv) in it and i'm wondering what internal gear ratio and pinion/spur combo i should start with, i don't want to over stress the motor. I'm mostly running on grass, if this makes a difference and I'm assuming the chassis I have got is standard, but i won't know until i take a closer look.

Anyway, as i said before any advice would really be appreciated and if i haven't given the right (or enough) info please ask, i can also provide photo's if this will help.

Nick.
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Old 13-05-2010
Andy71 Andy71 is offline
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Hi Nick

Spares wise I would look at front and rear wishbones, spare screws for the front suspension hangers, 'o' rings for the wing and an upgrade to the new black spur gears to start with.

The gears that alter the internal ratio are the gear by the slipper adjustment and the white nylon gear adjacent too it. In kit standard both gears have 33 teeth (2.6 internal) but can be changed to 34/22 (2.8) or 32/24 (2.4). The thinking is the lower internal (2.4) will lead to a more dynamic feel when coming on throttle.

The CAT SX, once tamed, is a very good car.

Andy
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Old 13-05-2010
Alfonzo Alfonzo is offline
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Check out www.racing-cars.com and look for the tech section. Should be able to download manuals, setup sheets, etc etc. Sorted.

Oh, read your post again and see you already have. Oops.
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Old 13-05-2010
inferno_4wd inferno_4wd is offline
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Thanks for getting back to me, Andy i have taken your advice and ordered some of the spares you mention and now i've had a good look at the CAT i can see where those gears are now for changing the drive ratio. Thanks for point us in the right direction.

One other question, it's about Lipo cells, I have seen there has been much discussion about the clearance between the cell and the belt/pulley and it looks like the pack i wanted to use will not fit!

I wanted to use the Orion Rocket Lipo pack which is a sort of stick pack replacement (Curved edges), a friend of mine has some so we tried fitting it in, there is clearance from the belt and pulley but only just, the problem is that it doesn't seem to fit in length. Has anybody here used these packs and is there a way to make them fit better?

Can anybody recommend some entry level cells that aren't overly expencive that will fit well?

I'm starting to think the best way forward is to buy the upgraded chassis plate with the bump cut-outs and buy the LRP Power Pack 4000mAh Lipo?? I can't find out if these have to correct "bump pattern" on the underside to see if they will fit though.

Any suggestions??
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Old 13-05-2010
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Rich D Rich D is offline
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You can shave a little off the front bulkhead to help length ways. if the height is ok and its only just too long to fit then youll be able to make them fit. i had the same issue with some SMC 50C lipo packs and modded the bulkhead to suit.
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Old 24-05-2010
inferno_4wd inferno_4wd is offline
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Thanks for all the help, this forum is a wealth of knowledge and has really helped me get to grips with my CAT SX.

Rich, great tip about the bulkhead, i found a bettery in the end that was still cheap and (almost) the correct dimension, the Overlander Tornado 5400mAh, it's just 1mm too long, but soon sorted that out with the dremel and it now fits like a glove.

I do have 1 more question, i've been looking through the setup sheets and although it says what size washers to use and where, there doesn't seem to be anywhere that says what length the Turnbuackles should be. Example: rear camber, there is a diagram showing which link holes to use, but nothing about what length linkages are used, or what the camber angle should be if using setup guages?? How do i know if i've followed the setup right? My car has had longer rear trunbuckles fitted and i don't have the original shorter ones.

Also the shocks can have open and closed diaphragm? I only have open ones, actually it looks like they are normal closed ones that someone has cut a big hole in!! Trouble with ebay cars, you never know exactly what's happenend to them. Is there a part number for the closed ones?

Thanks, Nick.
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Old 24-05-2010
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lochness42 lochness42 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inferno_4wd View Post
Also the shocks can have open and closed diaphragm? I only have open ones, actually it looks like they are normal closed ones that someone has cut a big hole in!! Trouble with ebay cars, you never know exactly what's happenend to them. Is there a part number for the closed ones?
There are only one - closed. Open one can be created by cutting hole as you've got.
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Old 24-05-2010
inferno_4wd inferno_4wd is offline
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Ah, ok that explains a lot! What's the benefits of running with open diaphragm? surely the shock oil ends up leaking out the bleed hole?
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Old 24-05-2010
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Ah, ok that explains a lot! What's the benefits of running with open diaphragm? surely the shock oil ends up leaking out the bleed hole?
You change bladder type shocks to emulsion by cutting diaphragm (wtf word ). So basically, you're changing how shocks work. I belive that remains of Dword covers bleed hole well and you're not leaking shock oil if I remeber well.
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