Cougar Diff

[martin]

There are a few people on this forum that appear to be having troubles with thier diffs coming undone, one reason for this to happen is that the internal circlip has popped out of its groove and has caused the thrust race to tilt over and it grips the screw and undoes. however when you undo the diff the load is released from the circlip and it pops back into place, giving the illusion that it has not moved. this circlip must be assembled very carefully each cougar kit had an instruction sheet showing how we recommend this is done. you have to ensure that the sharp side of the circlip is against the washer carrier, slightly open the circlip before you assemble it and place one corner of it in the groove of the washer carrier and push the other side in while squeezning it as little as possible. when the circlip is in the groove it must be tight and difficult to move, if it rotates freely or has some side to side movement remove the clip and try again.

[DCM]

Sorry, as the circlip is a general engineering item, if you are having to expand the circlip before placing in, then either the bore or the groove the circlip sits in is to large, or both.

[bigred5765]

it's nether of the above to be honest dcm, the main problem is when people over crush the clip to install it,

[Smartalec]

Originally Posted by bigred5765

it's nether of the above to be honest dcm, the main problem is when people over crush the clip to install it,

The point being Carl that if the circlip was the correct fit it wouldn't have to be opened up. A proper circlip should spring back to the correct size after compression, if it's made of monkey metal then it's not man enough for the job. You have to compress it to install it, you should be able to use a pair of circlip pliers and just pop it in, job done
My advice to anyone with a cougar is to source a decent circlip of the correct size before building the diff

[David Church]

Originally Posted by Smartalec

The point being Carl that if the circlip was the correct fit it wouldn't have to be opened up. A proper circlip should spring back to the correct size after compression, if it's made of monkey metal then it's not man enough for the job. You have to compress it to install it, you should be able to use a pair of circlip pliers and just pop it in, job done
My advice to anyone with a cougar is to source a decent circlip of the correct size before building the diff

But you drive a halfbreed???

[Smartalec]

Originally Posted by David Church

But you drive a halfbreed???

Yep, and both halves work

[GRIFF55]

hahahaha, love the springer quick whit again

[bigred5765]

Originally Posted by Smartalec

The point being Carl that if the circlip was the correct fit it wouldn't have to be opened up. A proper circlip should spring back to the correct size after compression, if it's made of monkey metal then it's not man enough for the job. You have to compress it to install it, you should be able to use a pair of circlip pliers and just pop it in, job done
My advice to anyone with a cougar is to source a decent circlip of the correct size before building the diff

thats right and most people do just that and have no problem, but when you squash it shut twice as fare as it needs to be, (and before you say it yes i watched someone rebuilding one and was horrified at how far they crushed it before they fit it),somethings going to give, i have never had to stretch ares and (touch wood) never had a problem with it,

[DCM]

Think it is a mix of overly generous tolerance on the groove, cheap circlips and a stupid arse design for a diff outdrive to be honest. Every single ball diff I build has a blanked end on each for the spring and the thrust race, so why Schumacher think that having Monkey Mechanics fit a sprung part is better, flumoxes me.... none of these issue's would appear if they run 'normal' design outdrives...

[racingdwarf]

I have not got a cougar, but have done a bit of work on a club members car, and seen a car running for the first time today.
I have to admit I realy don't understand why schumacher have used this design of diff. it would appear very complex and fiddely to build, and as for the system of keeping the main addjustment scew set by locking it with another screw.

But the whole car seems a bit ott to me, we had to put the bell cranks back together on one at the track today as they had come unscrewed and I was amazed at how many screws,washers, purple bits were on the bench just from taking the front to bits.

fair play tho, it did look nice on the track, jumped very well and took the bumps well, bit to much front end, but hey, it early days setup weise and we were on lush grass.

[eichkay]

Originally Posted by racingdwarf

I have not got a cougar, but have done a bit of work on a club members car, and seen a car running for the first time today.
I have to admit I realy don't understand why schumacher have used this design of diff. it would appear very complex and fiddely to build, and as for the system of keeping the main addjustment scew set by locking it with another screw.

I really like the two screw adjustment, other diff's ive had in associated and tamiya's have worked loose or got very tight and the schey ones just dont do that due to the grub screw

[David Church]

Originally Posted by Smartalec

Yep, and both halves work

Hey you hurt my feeling!!!

[Smartalec]

Originally Posted by DCM

Think it is a mix of overly generous tolerance on the groove, cheap circlips and a stupid arse design for a diff outdrive to be honest. Every single ball diff I build has a blanked end on each for the spring and the thrust race, so why Schumacher think that having Monkey Mechanics fit a sprung part is better, flumoxes me.... none of these issue's would appear if they run 'normal' design outdrives...

Exactly

[Smartalec]

Originally Posted by David Church

Hey you hurt my feeling!!!

You don't have any feelings

[racingdwarf]

Originally Posted by eichkay

I really like the two screw adjustment, other diff's ive had in associated and tamiya's have worked loose or got very tight and the schey ones just dont do that due to the grub screw

fair enough, every one has the own experience, Only times I have seen assosiated diffs loosen off is eather the lock nut is falty or worn out, or the diff has been put in the car the wrong way round(yep Ive done it)
The 2 screw method fine in theory,but you only need one screw to slaken off a little for things to go wrong, thus a lot of people are thred locking the screw, wait untill they have a grub screw head strip if they are nut using realy good quality allen keys.
I just feel the diff design is a very fiddly complex way of doing it, with plenty of room for error from the builder, the nut, bolt with thrust washer way of doing things is very simple. And I like things simple