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#1
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having only raced buggies before I now wish to have a go at 1/1 track racing and the Mi4LP stands out for me. Trouble is which version to go for. I realise the 'pro' is higher spec but apart from the CF chassis and more adjustable shocks is it worth me paying out the extra £120 ish for it. are there other better parts in the pro kit and if I say, went for the cheaper version could it be upgraded bit by bit? Is the race version £120 slower out of the box?
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#2
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The shocks on the Pro kit are significantly better than the ones on the race car - it's not even close.
The pro also has roll bars included.
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Matthew White |
#3
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So you would say i should pay the extra dosh now to save me having to upgrade in the near future. the better shocks work out to be about £60. Thats still cheaper than going the whole way for a 'pro chassis'
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#4
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Get pro.
Race kit has chrome diff balls, medium flex wishbones, simplier shocks, S1 instead of graphite and most importantely - plastic driveshafts.
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Retired from racing
| パベルともうします、よろしくおねがいしますスロバキア人だ、今イギリスにすんでいます。| | Ralls Racing | RCSGraphicWorx - paints, paintjobs, decals, custom wear | Schumacher Racing | Mr.O inserts | |
#5
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I can't help thinking that it's going to cost you a lot extra to do the upgrade route - and for me it's a much better kit.
Obviously 100% your call, and if the initial outlay is too much, then that's an issue of course.
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Matthew White |
#6
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Thanks all for your advice but ive encounted a problem with the chassis. Its only designed to take Lipo packs with 4 humps underneath them. my bionics packs have 6 humps and so wont sit flat on the chassis. is this because Schumacher wants you to buy only certain manufactuers lipos? looks like an Xray instead mybe
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#7
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just had another look at the chassis. maybe if cut the chassis to join the haoles or would that weaken it too much? Real shame as I really like the look of it otherwise
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#8
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If your lipo has got 6 humps on it then just sand two of them off?? i've seen quite a few people do that over the years for a number of things,
Also don't forget that most LiPo's have two rows of four lumps on the bottom, on the Mi4 the LiPo hangs half on and half off the chassis with a retaining bar around the outside. Moving from the Mi4 to the Mi4LP has 100 stopped any issues with batteries coming out after racing incidents. Schumacher wouldn't be so foolish as to make you buy a particular LiPo, it's not in their interest to cut down their chances of selling cars in such a way. For what it's worth, the CF version of the LP is by far and away higher spec'd and worth every penny of it's price, just having the ability to remove the spool/diff with two screws makes it almost 100% more attractive than other cars. not to mention such a removal doesnt affect any of the suspension geometry like on other chassis' like the Xray,Photon,Assoc... HTH Matt |
#9
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Cheers for the advice Matt. I thought about sanding off some of the humps but was unsure, (new to Lipos and read all the storys about them) but after your post skimmd the 2 humps that were in the way (no explosions or anything!!) and ordered a Mi4 pro(due to be delivered tomorrow). Cant wait, used to buggys so looking forward to the build and spraying the 'HBs' mazda 6 body and then seeing what she is capable of.
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#10
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you'll love the car, it's really good from straight from the Box, perhaps the only thing to upgrade to is HPI pink and HPI silver springs..
Personally I've built mine with the Spur Closer to the motor, but i know people who run it both ways round. Matt ![]() |
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