xx4 metal outdrives

[trekkerkk]

hi
what parts do i need to convert from plastic outdrives to metal outdrives on the xx4,
part numbers would be very helpfull,
thanks
trekkker

[Lee Martin]

cant u just use the collors over the top?

[bigred5765]

not sure on the part numbers
i think losa3073
i have a set if you need em

[super__dan]

There is an aluminium insert and a shim that goes inside to make the female outdrive into a male.

Lee, the metal diff is very en vogue at the moment.

[Lee Martin]

whats en vogue mean????

[millzy]

that dans been listning to the Madonna

[Gayo]

Hey, I know what "en vogue" means (in the mood) but I'd like to know what are the benefits of running a steel diff ?
Are they smoother, or is it the outdrive-dogbone contact that is better ? Unless this is a weight-related philosophy...

Mmmh... Madonna's Vogue... Perfect background for running ProCats and RC10s

[modelimages]

Originally Posted by Gayo

Hey, I know what "en vogue" means (in the mood) but I'd like to know what are the benefits of running a steel diff ?
Are they smoother, or is it the outdrive-dogbone contact that is better ? Unless this is a weight-related philosophy...

Mmmh... Madonna's Vogue... Perfect background for running ProCats and RC10s

when you snap a wishbone under power as the driveshaft leaves the outdrive it tends to snap it, meaning a major diff rebuild between rounds. switching to metal outdrives stops this.

[bigred5765]

also places slightly more weight over the rear end
and slows down the spool effect

[Chrislong]

Its worth considering building up a XXX-CR diff which doesn't need the alloy insert, as it has male/female outdrives and uses those copper rings and shims. This is what I use on the X-5, seems to work for me, the only down side is the HD thrust race, not keen on that.... I seem to damage atleast 1 when I attempt to rebuild it.

Chris

[trekkerkk]

what about bk2 diff halves

trekkker

[_sleigh_]

BK2 diff is much wider and not an option for the XX4

As "Long" says you could try the CR diff, but in my opinion it slips too much under heavy drive on high grip tracks.

As for the standard steel diff, the part numbers required to convert a plastic diff are;

A3073 - Diff Outdrive - 2 required
A3072 - Aluminium Insert - 1 required
A6230 - Bearing Shim - 1 required

The main benefit I've seen from running a steel diff is improved on-power bump handling. I've been running one for about 2 months and not seen a down side yet. Don't forget the shim, as it stops the bearings from "locking" when you fully assemble the diff.

I'd also say that the diff requires rebuilding less often, not sure why though.

[trekkerkk]

thanks sleigh,
just what i needed

trekkker

[Col]

All sounds like hard work to me. I'd just put outdrive savers on.
You got any left, Chris?