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#1
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I have been running my 501X with a 5.5 GTB brushless setup and the car has been getting along nicely but the motor gets far too hot even with the standard spur and a 16 tooth pinion.Just wondering what others are running with success.Cheers-Jason.
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#2
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I can't tell you what my motor temperature is after a 5-minute qualifier or main, but my 501X is powered by a Orion Revolution (11x2) with 87/15 gearing and no serious heat issues.
Make sure you have the vent holes cut/trimmed out of your body and maybe try lowering your pinion gear by one tooth.
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Tamiya America - Trakpower - 92Zero Designs |
#3
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i have also loosened the belts a notch or 2 to help this out as the drive train is quite tight at kit setting.
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#4
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I ran mine on kit gearing...
Novak 4.5 sintered.. speedo was warmish and the motor was easily touchable after a 5 min run outside in the sun. Iv cut both the flaps out to aid cooling as well. Is your 5.5 sintered as it does make a real difference. Also if you can live with it, turn the drag brake down to 20 % setting. I also find that the car is a lot smoother as it still retains its speed through corners rather than braking as soon as you let the power off. Hope this helps. Col. |
#5
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I run the tamiya 9T transpeed. 87/17 (6 minutes races)
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#6
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I had a 9x1 (brushed) in my 501x today and the top end was shit!
Admitedly I am running the stock spur (96t), but you reckon looseing the drive train a notch or two may be the answer? I'll definitely try this. Got a 78t and 81t B4 spurs on the way....so hoping this will make a vast difference. Any other advice on why my 501x was slow (bearing in mind it's stock and just built)? Cheers.
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X-5^2 :: CR2 :: XXX-T MF |
#7
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I have my old-school Peak/Yokomo 11x2 geared at 96/19 and was pretty happy with it. It was quite hot though and I reamed a couple of holes in the vents to help. I have enlarged the cutout to the size of the vent to see if this improves cooling more. I only have the vent cutout in front of the motor.Has anyone cut a vent behind the motor as well?
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#8
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I have all vents fully open - stu runs no undertray and a section in front of the motor and at the rear removed from the shell allowing as much air as possible to flow through the left hand side of the car
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#9
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Thx Jimmy. Do you see must dirt inside with undertray but all vents open? When I had two 6mm holes, the inside still stayed pretty clean - cleaner than a tourer in fact! I've opened the front motor vent up and will see how this goes this wkend. Might open an exit hole as well if this doesn't yield an improvement.
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#10
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You'll need the exit hole to get any air flowing really - just opening up the front hole wont do much I think. I didn't really see much dirt enter the car so wouldn't worry too much about it. At the end of the day the car will need more care than something sealed up like a BJ4we, but it's not so bad.
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#11
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I drive a LRP brushless system with a 6.5 Motor. If its very dirty and also wet I take the undertray and that heatens the motor up to 80°C, by cutting the body to its marked areas its 15°C less during a normal 7min run. I have also drilled 3 12mm holes into the end of the body that allows the income air to come out. I also tried to attach a cooling unit with fan but its to big and doesnt fit the body perfect, so every time its possible I drive without undertray, but 70°C is normal for my system.
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#12
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I always open up the back sections more than indicated to allow better air flow.
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#13
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What ever you do do not put a 7 single in it as this will be too fast and over heat anything. As I found out at the weekend.
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