HELP! WHATS NEEDED

[GRIFF55]

Hi all, just bought a b4ft. I havn't raced 2wd for many years and couldn't drive them then .
Is there anything i need to do to the car, or is it driveable straight out of the box (handling wise)?
It will be used on uk tracks in the mid west region.
Sorry for all the questions, but what motor is best to run in 2wd as well?
Cheers
Andy

[Southwell]

Plastic chassis, thats it.
11x3 is my fav 2wd motor.

[ashleyb4]

Silver rear springs blue front. 30wt oil all round.
Plastic chassis like Ian said.
The usual tyres Schumacher yellow dry ballistic green wet.
1 degree anti squat 0 degree's if its bumpy.
1 degree camber
the rest is mostly stock.


Thats about it really this is how i run my car. Other people may have diffrent opinions. It works fine for me.

A

[mark christopher]

you can stick with the craphite chassis but the plastic makes it better.

have a look on Chris Doughty's site some info on there
blue front silver rears is main

[loose]

Does the car come with the alloy front hinge pin brace? If not get one of them. Front bulk heads break with anything bigger than a slight front end tap otherwise. With the alloy brace I haven't had 1 break!

[ashleyb4]

Yea the ft comes with the front hinge pin brace.

A

[GRIFF55]

Thanks for all the help, should get me going ok!!
Does the plastic/composite chassis make that much difference??

[ryan]

I found the plastic chassis made the car easier to drive, hard to explain lol

[MK999]

the plastic chassis has a little more flex in it similar to running a softer tyre/spring so it gives a little more grip and punishes you less on mistakes, on the flip side it will make the car less consistent and it's generally considered better to have a stiff chassis and tune via the springs/anti roll etc, but then tenth off road defies everything I seem to know about race car setup

[ryan]

Originally Posted by MK999

the plastic chassis has a little more flex in it similar to running a softer tyre/spring so it gives a little more grip and punishes you less on mistakes

Thats what i was trying to say lol

[Body Paint]

http://www.doughtyuk.net/forum/index...=0&#entry37567

[GRIFF55]

All built now, goes well , alot better than the old top cat/gold tub rc10!!
Just one stupid thing, the button heads holding the front wheels on, Thredlock or really tight .
Many thanks all, can't wait till sunday now!!

[ashleyb4]

NO threadlock thats bad.

They wont come loose. Just tighten them normally.

A

[Southwell]

Theres nothing wrong with threadlock, thats what it's there for. Ive had to drill my screws out a couple of times due to the screws stripping, id rather do them up looser and have something there holding them in a bit better than nothing at all. (they stripped without threadlock) Even though i don't use threadlock, i may start.
I have seen wheels come off before, it does happen.

[DCM]

use the correct threadlock, stuff in tubes from autofactors and is blue is good, as it never fully sets.

[Southwell]

Yeh, thats all i use too.

[GRIFF55]

I've got some of the wurth stuff i used at bmw, should do the job nicely!! Cheers all. Do they do front axles that take nuts??

[DCM]

non-ft models do

[GRIFF55]

do you think it would be worth getting some of them axles?

[DCM]

I got both, I prefer the non-ft ones, unless you ditch the button head screws for a caphead, for more leaverage to get them undone.