A few tips needed with my B-max4

[CODMAN]

Hi guys, this is the first (of what will probably be many) requests for advice on my B-max factory team build. I've got 2 questions for the moment:

1- How tight does the motor bracket screw (the one with the spring on it) have to be to keep the motor from slipping free? Do I need to crank it down? Or just slightly tight?

2- Diff shimming... Ok, I've read through the posts here about it and am still wondering a few things. There is talk about an alternative method for shimming found in the manual, but in my manual (the factory team) there is no mention of how to shim! They just give the recommended numbers of shims... that's it. So is there an alternative way to shim it? So far, the manual settings (1x12mm shim on each side, and 2x8mm shims on the small crown and shaft) seem comparable to how I used to shim my B44. That is Slightly tight with a bit of binding. The gears would then bed in after a run or two. Do the Yokomo gears do this (they are a different plastic than associated)? Should I trust my experience and do it this way (which is what my gut feeling tells me)? Or try to shim it free.. The last time I shimmed new diff gears free in my B44, I toasted them in 2 runs!


Any input would be appreciated on these subjects!

Cheers!

[Yardeeee]

Hi,
Regarding the motor clamp. to adjust the mesh leave the bottom screw loose & have the top screw tightened just enough to compress the spring slightly. This should allow you to turn the motor & set the mesh. Once set, tighten the lower screw fully & then the top one so the spring is almost, but not fully compressed. Check the mesh again to ensure that it hasn't moved as you tightened things up.

Gear mesh ;- In the earlier manual Yokomo gave a second method of shimming to give a looser mesh. We never used the alternative & yokomo have now obviously deleted it from the current manual.

Build the gearboxes with the shims exactly as the manual says, use a SMALL amount of Associated diff lube on the teeth of the pinion & rotate by hand to spread on to the crown gear. When complete, run the car slowly with the wheels off the floor for a few minutes & the gear boxes will be fine.

Do not be tempted to shim any looser, or you will get very rapid gear wear.

Chris Yardy (Tom's dad)

[CODMAN]

Thanks so much Chris! That,s very clear about the motor plate!

And your description of the diff gear meshing pretty much confirms my experience with the B44. If I set it free, it will strip in no time. So slight binding (the stock setup) it is!

Cheers!

Originally Posted by Yardeeee

Hi,
Regarding the motor clamp. to adjust the mesh leave the bottom screw loose & have the top screw tightened just enough to compress the spring slightly. This should allow you to turn the motor & set the mesh, once set tighten the lower screw fully & then the top one so the spring is almost but not fully compressed. check the mesh again to ensure that it hasn't moved as you tightened up.

Gear mesh ;- In the earlier manual Yokomo gave a second method of shimming to give a looser mesh. We never used the alternative & yokomo have now obviously deleted it from the current manual.

Build the gearboxes with the shims exactly as the manual says, use a SMALL amount of Associated diff lube on the teeth of the pinion & rotate by hand to spread on to the crown gear.When complete run the car slowly with the wheels off the floor for a few minutes & the gear boxes will be fine.

Do not be tempted to shim looser or you will get very rapid gear wear.

Chris Yardy (Tom's dad)

[CODMAN]

Guys, another question or two... I'm going to be placing another order to japan for a few things and was wondering if any of the hop-up parts that are not included in the factory kit are worth buying as an upgrade... or if they are just Bling factor...

I'm thinking namely of the following:
- The lightweight diff halves
- The aluminium front suspension mounts
- The Aluminium rear suspension mounts

I am definetly going to throw some Carbine balls in the diffs. Do the lightweight diff halves make a noticeable difference? Are the other AL parts just more "Bling" than actual imporvements?

Thanks again!

[fastinfastout]

thats surprising the factory team didnt come with light weight diff halves, as the 09 version came with them, as well as the standard diff halves.

Personally I wouldnt bother with those diff halves.

[CODMAN]

Well the diffs came pre-assembled, and the part number in the manual refers to the standers halves... This, and they are darned heavy leads me to assume the are the standard ones. Yes, Yokomo did hold out on some of the hop-up parts with this kit... i'm wondering if they are worth it or not...

Originally Posted by fastinfastout

thats surprising the factory team didnt come with light weight diff halves, as the 09 version came with them, as well as the standard diff halves.

Personally I wouldnt bother with those diff halves.

[johnnygibbon]

any links were i can find these hop ups . cheers

[CODMAN]

Originally Posted by johnnygibbon

any links were i can find these hop ups . cheers

Give Tim an e.mail at http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...&cPath=136_137

He gives great service, fast shipping and reasonable prices. He doesn't keep everything in stock. But ordering from Yokomo takes him 2 days. I got my order, here in Canada, in 7 days! E.mail him and ask for pricing for the parts you want. He replies quickly...