HoleShot Tyre prep/build

[Matt-h]

I am attending the PDA Wednesday and have bought some HoleShots.
however, i am no expert in gluing tyres (touring cars - pre-glued) and was hoping someone had some tips?

The inserts look massive, also it says that i should be cutting holes into the tyre?

Matt

[ryanlownie]

Chris did this guide when he was working with us:

http://www.jespares.com/faq/6-guides...e-gluing-guide

[Matt-h]

Thats great, will have a read of that.

many thanks

[RogerM]

You will get many different answers to this as different people have found different ways which suit them.
Here is what I do (and will be doing to my Holeshots for Sunday @ PDA)

Test mount tire onto wheel, if the bead doesn't fit easily into the groves in the wheel then trim the width of the bead until it does just snuggly fit without having to force the bead into the groove. Don't cut it too thin or else it will be hard to get the tire to run true and only remove material from the inner (open) edge.

Clean wheel & tire bead with brake cleaner / motor spray

Make 2 small holes (about 3mm diameter is fine) in the wheel rim, diametrically opposite each other in the central area.

Fit inserts into the tire and massage the tire/insert combo until it all looks like it's even throughout.

Fit tire to wheels and then put some elastic bands around the tread area on the tires as close to the edges as possible (normally between the 1st & 2nd rows of spikes from the edge is good). This compresses the tire into the wheel groove which is helpful on the american tires which seem to have a less stiff sidewall than the Schumacher / Ballistic tires, this helps it all run true when glued.

turn the wheel onto its side (about 45deg from horizontal) and drop a couple of small drops of glue onto the tire / wheel joint and rotate the wheel so the glue runs around the bead joint. If you have the right amount of glue on there the glue will run around the full diameter of the joint and run into itself at the start point. If it stops flowing add another drop of glue, if there is so much glue on there that there is still a large amount left when you get back to the start just wipe it off.

Let the joint dry for about 30 seconds (do the other tires whislt waiting), turn the wheels over and repeat the process.

Let the whole thing sit for a minute or two before removing the elastic bands.

I've been doing this method for years and never had a problem so long as everything is spotless and dry before you start!

Hope that helps

[Battle_axe]

Originally Posted by RogerM

You will get many different answers to this as different people have found different ways which suit them.
Here is what I do (and will be doing to my Holeshots for Sunday @ PDA)

Test mount tire onto wheel, if the bead doesn't fit easily into the groves in the wheel then trim the width of the bead until it does just snuggly fit without having to force the bead into the groove. Don't cut it too thin or else it will be hard to get the tire to run true and only remove material from the inner (open) edge.

Clean wheel & tire bead with brake cleaner / motor spray

Make 2 small holes (about 3mm diameter is fine) in the wheel rim, diametrically opposite each other in the central area.

Fit inserts into the tire and massage the tire/insert combo until it all looks like it's even throughout.

Fit tire to wheels and then put some elastic bands around the tread area on the tires as close to the edges as possible (normally between the 1st & 2nd rows of spikes from the edge is good). This compresses the tire into the wheel groove which is helpful on the american tires which seem to have a less stiff sidewall than the Schumacher / Ballistic tires, this helps it all run true when glued.

turn the wheel onto its side (about 45deg from horizontal) and drop a couple of small drops of glue onto the tire / wheel joint and rotate the wheel so the glue runs around the bead joint. If you have the right amount of glue on there the glue will run around the full diameter of the joint and run into itself at the start point. If it stops flowing add another drop of glue, if there is so much glue on there that there is still a large amount left when you get back to the start just wipe it off.

Let the joint dry for about 30 seconds (do the other tires whislt waiting), turn the wheels over and repeat the process.

Let the whole thing sit for a minute or two before removing the elastic bands.

I've been doing this method for years and never had a problem so long as everything is spotless and dry before you start!

Hope that helps

this is how i do mine every 7/8 weeks for the PDA the proline inserts are huge i would trim the outside edge of them to make them more rounded makes them fit better and the tyres hold there shape a bit better

[Matt-h]

I'm running the tyres on Schumacher REV-LITE wheels(Schumacher CAT SX)

the sidewalls seem ok, but the inserts seem massive - especially the fronts

[Battle_axe]

Originally Posted by Matt-h

I'm running the tyres on Schumacher REV-LITE wheels(Schumacher CAT SX)

the sidewalls seem ok, but the inserts seem massive - especially the fronts

like i just said they will fit but give them a small trim to make them more rounded

[Chris Doughty]

with Proline or any other 'soft' dirt tire, I would do more than just run a bead of glue around the edge.

peel the tire back a bit as you drop the glue in and then reseat the tire, do this in stages around the wheel.

[Northy]

Originally Posted by DoughtyUK.net

with Proline or any other 'soft' dirt tire, I would do more than just run a bead of glue around the edge.

peel the tire back a bit as you drop the glue in and then reseat the tire, do this in stages around the wheel.

Graham North like this

G