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#1
09-08-2009
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Painting using Liquid mask workflow ?
Just finished 'trying' to paint a shell using liquid mask. It went ok, but not brilliant as when I removed the cut out masked areas the lines weren't as clean as i'd like.
My question is, looking at all the amazing shells around on here, what exactly is the right workflow re masking and cutting the liquid mask, and more importantly how do you cut really nice flowing lines into the masking as mine all look a bit dodgy. There must be something i'm missing as I usually have a pretty steady hand... Cheers. Andy. 
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#2
09-08-2009
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how many layers did you put in buddy and what knife do you use
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#3
09-08-2009
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Always paint 3-4 coats of liquid mask on the shell. Not thick coats as this will not dry properly, and may cause bleed on the mask. The mask needs to be clear when its dry, no ghosty white-ish blobs or so on the shell. These are areas where the mask hasn't dried properly and doesn't stick to the shell.
If you haven't put enough liquid mask down then it will not peel off correctly and will come away from the shell all bitty and jagedy. If you're using solvent based paint put more liquid mask on, as the solvent have the effects of softening the mask. Cutting wise, get yourself a good Xacto knife and keep the blade sharp (but don't press on too much or you'll cut through the shell).
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#5
10-08-2009
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I used a new scalpel and put on 3 coats of liquid mask. Do people draw the design on the outside of the shell as a guide ? I found this worked ok until the paint started to make it difficult to see through the shell and I ended up having to make it up as I went along as I could no longer see my design !
Also cutting smooth curves in the mask was tricky , is there a knack / technique to cutting out your designs ? Cheers.
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#6
10-08-2009
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if you can, cut all of your design out first. i always do.
as for curves, different people like different types of blades. alot use no. 10 a. i prefer to use a no.10. i just saw a no.6 which looks really good as its inbetween those regards to shape and size. these no.s are swann n morton blades, dont know if theses numbers are the same for other brands. when cutting a straight line, have the scalpel more towards the horizontal postion. then bring the scalpel more n more perpendicular to the shell as you get into the curve. tighter the curve the more upright the scalpel should be. thats how i do it anyway. good luck.
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#7
10-08-2009
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Cheers for the info.
Does the paint not bleed through where the masking fluid is cut ? That's why I did it cutting a piece at a time...
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#8
10-08-2009
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no buddy the paint won t bleed through the other cuts i use number 11 excel blades to do my cutiing ,,, make sure your layers are good on the mask and you will be fine ,,, as for tell and jon miller i agree but will say curves and straight lines do take alot of practice ,,, best advise i can say is take your time cutting out the design do nt rush it and stick to the design you ve done too
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#9
10-08-2009
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Also, if you can rest a finger on the shell, as you cut, it keeps the hand a lot steadier too.
__________________
dragon paints : team tekin : fusion hobbies :SCHUMACHER RACING : Nuclear R/C for all my sticky and slippery stuff - if it needs gluing or lubing, Nuclear RC is the man!
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#10
10-08-2009
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It funny how peoples preferences differ isn't it?
I prefer something like a no.24 blade. The angle on this is much more shallow meaning that the knife is stood more upright. I find this easier for doing shells as sometime the size and shape of the shell doesn't allow you to lay the knife down like you have to with some of the other blades. I also find this easier to do curves as all you have to do is twist the knife in between your fingers rather than having to rotate your wrist. This is just something i've carried on from my graphic design days really. Also I only use one blade every 2-3 years.  I just keep re-sharpening it.
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#11
18-08-2009
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I did my SC10 shell with liquid mask but i can't have used enough.......
The lines were perfectly clear but the problem i had was peeling it off - it didn't come off in big chunks like it should do, but rather tiny little pieces that would just tear just as you got going.... Made for a very slow painful process i have to say  I think it can only be down to me not putting enough layers on it??
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#12
18-08-2009
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Yeah Nick, It needs to be 4 good coats on the SC10's.
Then it should peel off lurvley. If you put 4 thin coats on then it will be a pain to peel off. They have to be good coats. I can't quite describe how thick I just know how. Did you use spray cans or acrylic aibrush? If you use solvent cans it can have the effect of not putting enough coats on, even if you have. So if youre using solvent cans put an extra coat on.
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#13
18-08-2009
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Thanks Terry, the paint i used was Custom colour so not sure what they would be?
Yeah i think next time i'll just slap LOADS on and make sure it's nice and thick. The roll bars were a BAST*** to cut around though  I will definitely paint a few more coats on next time though.
__________________
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#14
18-08-2009
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Doesn't need to be mega thick. Just not a thin coat
 Always apply in coats and makes sure there are no thick blobs left over. Its best if its a consistent thickness all over. Hmm Custom colour is solvent based. Cans seem to contain more solvent for some reason. I'm not a big fan of custom colour. I've only used it a couple of times, and didn't get on with it either time. The roll cage, I cut about 1mm in from the cage its self. So the colour from the cage will over lap the flat inbetween sections a little bit. Its easier to get clean straight lines.
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#15
18-08-2009
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Quote:
Are they any sprays that don't have Solvents in??
__________________
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