Hub carrier problem...

[Sabben]

Hi!

While I was running my Lazer for about 2 hours ago, I managed to break my 3rd hub carrier...

I am really tired of this now! Do you get this in alu or any other stronger matherial?

Cheers.

[bert digler]

Originally Posted by Sabben

Hi!

While I was running my Lazer for about 2 hours ago, I managed to break my 3rd hub carrier...

I am really tired of this now! Do you get this in alu or any other stronger matherial?

Cheers.

theres a bloke on ebay doing them but his postage is comedy RCHOBBYSPORT is his shop name

[Sabben]

Thanks mate!

[jim76]

but he only does the standard 7.5 blocks, not the 10 deg blocks. the 7.5 aren't worth using.

i broke 2 front blocks in my first 3 meetings, but touch wood i haven't broke any since, so not sure if Kyosho have changed the plastic as i've had some pretty big tumbles!

[KyoshoK]

DON NOT BUY THEM. THEY BEND SO QUICK. UP TO YOU.

[Sabben]

Originally Posted by KyoshoK

DON NOT BUY THEM. THEY BEND SO QUICK. UP TO YOU.

Hm... Okai. Will it be cheaper to just buy a hole bunch of original Kyosho hub's? They aren't that expensive, pluss that if I compete with my Lazer this season I get cheaper parts from Kyosho

[KyoshoK]

its wierd because i got the PN tower holder and the D brace. and they are very very strong. and take a beating. those parts i recommend.

but i also bought thier steering knuckle. that bent in 2 runs. a fe people people have complained about this on rctech.

bad thing is the bend is so small its hard to detect. but the steering geometry goes off.

give the plastic ones a go. maybe just your bad luck. i never broken that or even an arm before. the kyosho plastics are very strong.

[ulrich]

Originally Posted by KyoshoK

DON NOT BUY THEM. THEY BEND SO QUICK. UP TO YOU.

There is two different thing we are talking about here, the C-hub and the steering knuckle, it is correct the PN knuckle is very weak and bend, but the PN C-hub is very strong and I will recommed this item. I using the alloy C-Hub with plastic knuckles and it works fine and never broke a knuckle since.

Ulrich

[omen1975]

Originally Posted by ulrich

There is two different thing we are talking about here, the C-hub and the steering knuckle, it is correct the PN knuckle is very weak and bend, but the PN C-hub is very strong and I will recommed this item. I using the alloy C-Hub with plastic knuckles and it works fine and never broke a knuckle since.

Ulrich

Hi Guys,

I found that the C-hub only broke on my ZX-5 when the king pin pulled out or came loose and fell out, I have not had any trouble since I made this cheap and simple modification (picture attached)

Kyosho part OT-16 alloy is found on a few different cars. Including the Lazer zx and optima mid.

I use the ZX-5 plastic 10 degree C-hubs. (picture shows an example C-hub)

Hope this helps
omen1975

[bert digler]

years ago they made nylon hubcarriers with a bearing in would this idea work today

[Sabben]

Originally Posted by ulrich

There is two different thing we are talking about here, the C-hub and the steering knuckle, it is correct the PN knuckle is very weak and bend, but the PN C-hub is very strong and I will recommed this item. I using the alloy C-Hub with plastic knuckles and it works fine and never broke a knuckle since.

Ulrich

Hm... I am a little confused now I talk about these, as shown on pic.

[jarkkom]

Originally Posted by omen1975

Hi Guys,

I found that the C-hub only broke on my ZX-5 when the king pin pulled out or came loose and fell out, I have not had any trouble since I made this cheap and simple modification (picture attached)

Kyosho part OT-16 alloy is found on a few different cars. Including the Lazer zx and optima mid.

I use the ZX-5 plastic 10 degree C-hubs. (picture shows an example C-hub)

Hope this helps
omen1975

This is awesome info. Thanks.

[KyoshoK]

omen75,

whats the position of the hole where the steering rod link goes relative to the original knuckle? i see it only has the 1 hole.

[omen1975]

Originally Posted by KyoshoK

omen75,

whats the position of the hole where the steering rod link goes relative to the original knuckle? i see it only has the 1 hole.

Hey its in the same position as the inner most hole on the original knuckle, I was quite surprised how easy the conversion was. The knuckles I am using are from a GV truck (great vigor) but they are also used on a few different types of cars as mentioned in previous quote.

Hope this helps
omen1975