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#1
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Just picked this up today.
![]() I've not had an RC car for 20 years so really looking forward to building this. The car was fresh from Schumacher and has a 44mm front link mount and the strengthened outdrives which I believe are the latest fixes/mods? Thanks to MK Racing who were very helpful and put together a great deal including sourcing a 2nd hand radio at a great price. Also thanks to everyone here who has been patiently responding to my questions. |
#2
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You will not regret getting the CAT SX !!!
Have fun and we should see a post of it built by errrr Sunday night ![]() If you have any questions mate just ask. Tony |
#3
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Credit crunch my arse. Love it!
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#4
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Thanks guys. I can't understand how people can wait a week to run their cars when getting them painted up! Considering getting a spare shell and just running with transparent body. Bit concerned the shell won't be paintable once used though?
Seems I need to buy a soldering iron too as god knows where mine is ![]() |
#5
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Wow that is awesome.
Amazing setup there, you have got all the good stuff! TrakPower, Bantam, EDS and of course Schumacher! MK is the nuts and will always do the top stuff, so you made a good choice. Didn't realise you were local, are you going to be racing Newbury with it? |
#6
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the cat is a really fun car to build...enjoy
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#7
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Only bit that people told me was a bit duff is the losi engine + controller, but willing to take a chance as I think its mostly early firmware that caused issues. I guess I'll find out eh ![]() My wallet hurts! Thanks for all your reviews mate. May have shaped some of my purchases ![]() |
#8
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Isn't CML Raceway down that neck of the woods? That would cure your need for an outside fix without having to go too far.
__________________
Dragon Paints |
#9
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I'm based in Walton-On-Thames. Eden park is only 20 miles from me, but nightmare drive through suburban London. Shame there isn't a track at Mercedes World Brooklands! Someone should convince them! |
#10
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#11
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Wow you are quite local, my Nan lives in Walton-On-Thames. I live Camberley/Farnborough area. The park by Brooklands/Mercedes Benz World is awesome for bashing but the park wardens don't like it for some reason though
![]() You will Newbury track easy to get too, as it's basically two roads. M3 then A339/ Advantage of Newbury is it's weather proof being indoors, very important this time of year. I am going to get down both Eden Park and CML Raceway in the summer so might see you there ![]() |
#12
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Hi,
First post, but been lurking here for a while. I also just bought my first RC car in 20 years from Marc at MK. And guess what, it was a Cat SX. Amazing car to build. Got the car as a Christmas present to myself. Spent the week before Christmas building it, on the proviso from the wife that I couldn't drive it until Christmas day. Loved building it. It is a work of art. I too couldn't wait to drive it, so ran it with clear shells. Not that bothered myself about the shell. Unfortunately the Losi Xceleron only ran for about 10 minutes max before it had a major melt down. Marc has been great and the whole unit has been replaced under warranty. I should have the replacement back on Monday. Hopefully this one will work a little better. I will get some pics as soon as I have it back together, but I'm running an LRP Lipo, and used some of the advice here to attach velcro to the battery strap to stop it sliding. The humps on the battery have to sit perfectly between the 2 pulleys at the front end, next to the servo. But with a bit of wire shortening, you can get a really neat set-up between the motor, ESC and Lipo. Cassponk, what pinion size did you go for? Marc only had a 17T when I had mine delivered, but I have a larger one on the way with the new controller/motor. |
#13
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I've got a 22T pinion on advice from here. 17T seems quite a long way off? That would give you a lot of torque but slow accel right? Putting 2 & 2 together, I think Marc mentoned your controller when I was asking about reliability having been warned off the controller by a few on here. Great service from the distributor! I've just updated the firmware on mine and had no probs. I like how they are configurable from software and all the cables etc are included. Some of the other controllers seem to requre morse code button presses to set things and that sucks! |
#14
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Good acceleration, but lower top speed. Lots of torque. At least by my understanding. Anyone who actually knows what they are talking about want to comment?
Personally I was gobsmacked by the speed of this sucker even with this small pinion. Of course I had the Losi set up to 100% throttle, but when the new one gets here I am going to linit it to 60 or 80% until I have got used to the car. It's bloody rapid!! The little programming card is a pretty cool thing. Never got to update the firmware or even get the softwar into the laptop and plug into the USB. Will do that as soon as I get the new one. I found the slipper was too loose as stock following the manual, so try it before you put the layshaft gear cover on (one of the last ops). Also get some adhesive velcro strips (I got mine from Halfords) for the battery strap. I just got a 4" strip, stuck it to the battery strap (both pieces of velcro attached together) and then trimmed both pieces using scissors to the shape of the strap. Then peeled off the backing of the other velcro piece and placed the strap on top of the battery in the car. Then you have the velcro stuck to the battery adn to the strap, so neatly that you can't see any velcro until you remove the strap and the battery. |
#15
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If you look at the factory setup guides, they are all 22 or 23 which is what I was recommended here, so fairly certain that is the one to go for. Not sure where I got this impression from, but I thought running a pinion quite a long way from optimum wasn't terribly good for the ESC or maybe the motor? Someone informed able to comment? Will have to play with the clutch. None of this stuff was around when I had my last one! p.s. thanks for the tip with the velcro. I was thinking about velcro for the battery as I don't like glueing things onto packs really. p.p.s. was planning to do that myself on the throttle. Can probably do the trick they recommend in the firmware update for the brake. i.e. give yourself 100% (well for the brake they say 80%) and then use the radios limit to trim it down. That way you don't have to mess around programming the ESC if you want to change it in a hurry, just change the setting in the radio. |
#16
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Yea, your acceleration/bottom end would be great, but top end no so much.
A undergeared motor can, and will run as hot as a over geared motor because there isnt enough load on it. I run a Orion 5.5, LRP speedo, and a TrakPower lipo (like my sig) and I have it geared at 20-22 depending on how much top I need. Its just stupid fast, and I usually run my 20T, have all the midfield punch, and top you could ever need. I can run till the LVC racing for a good 25 mins, and after that nothing is over 160, 150-155 area. All I have for cooling is the little air vent cut out on the motor side Wiring is nice, neat, and short with a pack like the Trakpower lol, everything is so close ![]() ![]() Its tight, but everything clears, nothing rubs. So for a 6.5 id run anywhere from a 22-24 and just mess around with it. But say 17 is to small.. At least run a 20
__________________
Blacked Out Mi4 Schumacher/Speed Passion/Black Army Racing/Owen RaCing Anodizing/NNFaN Paints/Scooter Motorworks |
#17
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Thanks for that info and nicely wired car. I'm having to buy a soldering iron tomorrow to tidy mine up! Do you know if a point tip is ok for car work? Would rather a flat tip on the iron but cracking deal on one with only a point tip, and no flat tips are available for it.
p.s. I see you like blacked out cars. Maybe you know if its possible to make the shell look matt black? I posted a thread on the painting section asking about this with a pic of a 911 GT3 matt black but no answers yet. Seems like something that might be up your street! http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17756 |
#18
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p.s. is there any reason I can't put bullet connectors of some type between motor and ESC in case I want to switch motors quickly? If so what type of connectors are recommended?
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#19
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You certainly can, most ESC's come with these already. I believe the default size for this is 3.5mm gold connectors. Very similar to the Corally style 4mm's you use with TrackPower etc just a little smaller.
The only downside is a little more resistance and it takes up more space also. I tend to prefer just a straight solder, as motors are relatively simple and safe (in terms of heat resistance) to solder. That said at the moment I have 3.5mm's on my CAT (or whatever the default connectors that come with the Tekin are), however they take up room and are going to be soldered out before the Petit RC race next weekend. |
#20
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![]() http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...lack&search=Go Im not sure where you buy your stuff. But that link has flat black paint. I have tried some flat black paint before (forget the brand, I think it was Tamiya?) And it looks like that 911. Quote:
![]() EDIT- http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/produ...ecnumber=48435 You could run those. Makes soldering a little easier if you dont like to. I have never used them, but my buddies have and they work pretty well
__________________
Blacked Out Mi4 Schumacher/Speed Passion/Black Army Racing/Owen RaCing Anodizing/NNFaN Paints/Scooter Motorworks |
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