Any plumbers on here?

[Northy]

Our central heating pump is badgered - bearings are shot. So I tried to change it today. I shut the isolation valves at either side and loosened the lower nut carefully, some water came out as I expected. I kept mopping it up, more came out, I mopped it up..... etc.

I thought, geez this pump shouldn't hold this much water and then I heard the tank filling up and realised the pipes were getting warm again from the hot water in the tank.

So I'm guessing the isolation valves aren't working. They turn freely enough, is that right?

What's wrong?

Anyone local wanna come and do it for me?

G

[DCM]

whats wrong with the pump, stopped turning.

Shut-off valves, take the knob off them, and use a spanner to nip it up that last bit....

[JCJC]

Some of the valves turn 90 deg to off, you can then turn 90 deg to on etc, but just keep turning in the same direction, on/off/on etc - ballovalves ?

Have to get the off position in just the right position.

There is a handy kit - bung kit - that is like two rubber cones, with a 15mm or 22mm hole in the fat end, cone goes into the outlet of the heating header tank, hole fits over the vent pipe that hovers over the tank, if you are lucky, with these in position and a small water loss you can change a joint on the heating system (only one joint at a time).

Edit: http://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co....kit-p-211.html something like this..

[James]

My parents boiler blew up yesterday... 5k for a new one

And dads truck.. he was driving along - the fuel meter wet to zero, water heater light on, rear windows went down, sunroof opened, seat started moving, quite funny really ECU died .. or its possessed

[Northy]

Bearings are dead in pump it wakes me up at 6.30 every morning as it starts

The isolation valves turn about 5 ish times then stop turning, they aren't the ones that turn for ever, I know what you mean by those.

G

[Rich D]

G

There should be another valve that closes the cold water feed to the cylinder. If you close this then it will greatly reduce the head pressure from the header tank in your loft. It might still weep if your isolation valves arent seating, but at least it should only be a trickle.

Im not a plumber but dabble similarly to yourself


EDIT - hang on - this might only be for the hot water side ! ? Sorry - it worked when i had to change a tap ...... ??

[jc79]

Turn the main valve off. turn all the taps on upstairs and down stairrs and drain the full system then do what yo need to do. the tank will refill its self once the main stop kok is turned on. this will mean you have enough time to do what ever you need.

[DCM]

there should be an isolation valve directly above and belos the pump, if thats the case, you just need to nip the valves closed with a spanner, job done.

Might be worth paying that little extra and get it done by a fitter, British Gas do an offer for customers on dual fuel, any job, £99

[Alfonzo]

Assuming it's not flooding out, can't you replace the pump quickly and tighten everything up before you need to get your arm-bands out?

[Wally]

AS usual the pump valves are U. S. If you have a small heating tank feeding the heating side of the system turn off the water to it, if no turn off tie ball valve up. Drain system at lowest point until water stops running at pump. You then need to replace pump and valves. Do not get slotted quater turn valves. Fit gate type . Refill system and vent all radiators.
If you just have one tank yet again tie up ball valve and drain system, then proceed from drain down above.

If you are rich very rich try BG. rip off service

[Carver86]

G, there are a few decent plumbers at my work who i'm sure will do it for you for a cheap price. Give us a PM if you want me too ask them for u

cheers

[bodgit]

I may be wrong here but isnt there a product plumbers use to freeze the pipes each side of the pump and valve so they can be removed without draining the system or is it only available to trade

[Chaz]

You can buy them over the counter. Rothenburger freeze kits (or hire out a big electric one from Brandon Tool Hire like a Rothenburger or REMS). Can't remember if they come with a can of freeze spray but if they don't buy a can for each time you freeze a pipe (when i freeze pipes i'd rather use more than i need instead of causing a flood ). You don't want to risk the ice block inside the pipe from dislodging. When/if you do it, make sure you have everything you need at hand to work quick! Freeze the pipe about a metre away from where you're working to you can 'ease' the pipe around without moving the ice. The water in the pipe needs to be stationary when freezing (basically don't run taps unless you want to get wet). Get and change the iso-valves then you can concentrate on the pump. If you use the electric kits, make sure you keep the freezer going whilst you work on the pipes. Pour cold water over the freezing electrode thingys to create a ice seal every 10 or so minutes.

http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...ezing-kit.html
http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...ay-500gms.html
http://www.brandontoolhire.co.uk/dir...?idproduct=377


Chaz

[JCJC]

Originally Posted by Northy

Bearings are dead in pump it wakes me up at 6.30 every morning as it starts
G

Re set the timer to switch on later when you are up & awake !!

the easy drain kits are good, less messing than freezing

[Northy]

No so easy with a 5 month old baby in the house

The iso valves turn ok, and seem to work from the outside. Would just 'working' them a bit help at all?

Or should I really drain the system? The pump is higher than the upstairs radiators, so I guess I wouldn't need to drain much to get to pump level. Does it re-fill on it's own after?

Cheers,

G

[JCJC]

Sorry,trying to be ammusing re comment changing timer, yes, switch off filler into header tank, or tie up ball valve, drain down as much as you need, system will refill once you have confidently finished changing the pump, you may have to blead air from some radiators after.

[Northy]

Stupid question, but how do I tell that I've drained enough out?

The pipe comes out of the bottom of the pump, down towards the airing cupboard floor, then turns 90 degrees and goes through the wall. The pipe runs about 10mm off the floor of the airing cupboard. The only thing I could get underneath to catch the water was a plate! I had to sponge the water off that into a bucket!

G

[JCJC]

Do you have a small radiator at the same level, turn off both valves, disconnect one valve from the radiator, leaving the valve on the pipe, water will glug out of radiator-paint roller tray-thumb over end, when the radiator is empty you can use the valve as a tap to bring the level down.......careful with nuts on valves, support the valve body as you tighten & untighten.

[Wally]

If the pump is sited above the level of the top of your radiators, then simply try an air vent on rads. If not it is a matter of loosening one of the pump nuts, no water system is drain down far enough.
Pump valves are notorious for not shutting off. Hazard of the trade

[Northy]

All sorted now thanks, I partially drained the system and changed the pump. It no no longer sounds like there is a Tractor in the airing cupboard

Now I just need to look at the boiler - it sounds like the fan blades are catching inside. The rubber mounts failed on the old fan and we had it replaced by a plumber - but it's started making the noise again, just not as bad.

G