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#1
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Tonight I managed to strip the belt and a pulley in my x-5, due to being a muppet and tightening the belt too much
![]() Now do I just replace the belt and pulleys or upgrade it to an x-5 squared as this now comes with the machined pulleys. If I do upgrade it do I need any extra rollers or stuff to stop the belt slipping. Peter |
#2
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The Higher Power Upgrade Kit is still available, and I think your favourite model shop might have one, or they can get it for you. And we've got them. If you get the Higher Power Kit, you will still need to add a belt.
Of course a new X - 5 Squared gives you everything new -- often a good thing. |
#3
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The machined pulleys are much better, the main drive pulley significantly! I would defo do that.
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Nortech is ACE! |
#4
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while you have it in bits, it would be the prefect time to upgrade to the squared version, as dan said the new pulley are better,
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Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#5
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Yes, the High Power X5 Squared upgrade kits are in stock here in the UK
__________________
ORCA - LC RACING - RUDDOG PRODUCTS - JCONCEPTS - ALPHA PLUS - TEKIN RACING - ULTRAPOWER AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ TKR GRAPHICS - BF MATERIALS - BATAN - DMS PARTZ - TEAM AJ Tel : (01923) 816636
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#6
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So apart from a new belt, (which one do I need?) is there anything else I should buy, (extra rollers for belt etc) for the upgrade kit.
Peter |
#7
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If you have done a belt, i would advise replacing all the pulleys, especially the drive pulley on the layshaft
![]() I'm not sure if you run a roller next to the drive pulley to stop belt skip? If you dont, then just make one up from old parts in your box. I also run the twin rollers and the longer belt but im not sure how much this helps to be honest. I never had an issue with the single roller till the euros ![]() |
#8
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The X5 transmission has evolved since the original in all kinds of ways over the last couple of years. At one point there was a dual idler option which had a 2nd idler that meant more wrap around the drive pulley and lifted it higher, this needed the XXX4 belt which is longer. Since then the machined pulleys have come out which particularly the drive pulley is so much better skip with good tension is virtually eliminated. You can't get the dual pulley anymore as Losi stopped making the right pulley.
I must admit that I still use a home made 'hold down' roller that sits a fraction off the belt on the drive pulley so if the belt tried to lift it stops it and keeps the teeth engaged, hence no skip. With both of these (new pulleys and hold down roller) things I have no skip what so ever and a very free transmission. Bearing in mind the various benefits of the squared chassis and the clearances of the new shell etc I personally would get the whole upgrade kit, have an evening transferring it all over. Run the car, the belt sometimes stretches a fraction so it's not unual to need to nip the tension up a bit for the first few runs and then you shouldn't have to touch the transmission for months. Mines not been apart I don't think since prep for Belgium in the summer. HTHs Dan
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Nortech is ACE! |
#9
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Peter |
#10
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__________________
Mattys the driver,my names carl
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#11
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There are some decent pictures of my belt roller. I made it with a dremel by cutting the "ball" part off of an old CVD axle and then drilling a hole in the side of the chassis. I use some axle spacers as shown to take up the extra slack, which holds the chassis really well and so the hole can be a little egg-shaped (to get the distance right) w/o any problems. This is with the old drive pulley; it works with the new one of course too. You can also see my dual-idler pulley set-up; I use two of the regular idler pulleys and can use the standard (xxx-s yellow) belt. I think I had to drill and tap a hole in the idler bar to do this, but I honestly don't remember? It was pretty quick work, I just tried to put the two pulleys as close together as I could.
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#12
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Is it only the centre pulley that it skips on??
Peter |
#13
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http://www.one-ten-rcforums.com/4wdr...ic.php?id=1540
Sorry no internal pics to hand of hold down roller. Mine is as simple as an M3 bolt(I think) with a motor bearing (same ID as screw). I then drilled a deliberatly oversize hole in the chassis and used a big washer (blue anodized one in pic) so you could position the bolt in the right place (paper width) off the belt so it only touches when the belt tries to skip. Does the belt only skip on the drive pulley - yes I'm 99% sure.
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Nortech is ACE! |
#14
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Which belt do i need for an x-5 squared??
Losa3213 Losa3209 or the other part number I have read about was losa3281 but that says it's an extra long belt for a xxxs. Peter |
#15
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Use the A3209 (XXXS) with just one belt idelr and use the A3213 (XXX4) if you intend to run the two. I personally run the A3209 with just one belt idelr and the belt "roller" (to prevent skip) that has been talked about already.
__________________
ORCA - LC RACING - RUDDOG PRODUCTS - JCONCEPTS - ALPHA PLUS - TEKIN RACING - ULTRAPOWER AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ TKR GRAPHICS - BF MATERIALS - BATAN - DMS PARTZ - TEAM AJ Tel : (01923) 816636
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#16
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Cheers my order will be coming your way tommorow
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#17
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We believe all belt skip is on the drive pulley; 100% of the force goes through it, both acceleration and braking, while each diff carries only a part of the force. Also, the force is transmitted through many more teeth on the diff pulleys than the drive.
This also accounts for the fact that the X - 5 has a bit more belt skip than the xxx-4: Our drive pulley is 25% smaller. they engage 10 teeth, while we have just eight. For a while we had a dual-idler set-up which did help with skip because it increased wrap on the drive pulley -- another tooth engaged. For maximum effect, we used the "oversized" idler, which Losi has discontinued. All Squared idler bars were drilled & tapped to accept this dual-idler system. We discontinued the Dual-Idler Upgrade Kit when we ran out of the big idlers, but you certainly can easily add a second "standard" idler and it will increase wrap. In the one-idler system, the idler goes in the center hole. For the dual-idler, use the two holes closest to the mounting screw holes. The dual-idler Kit required a longer belt, #3213. However, most Family members using two standard pulleys report the standard X - 5 Kit belt #3209 works just fine. If I were buying an Higher Power Upgrade Kit for any reason, I would also purchase a #3209 belt to go with the new pulleys in the Kit. We also suggest everybody keep a set of pulleys and a spare belt in their pit box. It's the kind of thing you replace from time to time, and being caught at the track broken ends your day. But Dan is right. A well put together X - 5 driveline lasts many months. Paul often goes 6-8 months without touching his. |
#18
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Cheers Darren
__________________
ORCA - LC RACING - RUDDOG PRODUCTS - JCONCEPTS - ALPHA PLUS - TEKIN RACING - ULTRAPOWER AVID R/C - VAMPIRE RACING - EXOTEK RACING - LUNSFORD RACING - X-FACTORY - TUNING HAUS - WTF AME - RAGE R/C - REVOLUTION DESIGN RACING PRODUCTS - McKUNE DESIGN - TEAM AZARASHI X-PARTZ - PHAT BODIES - RACERS EDGE - RM2 - DIRT RACING PRODUCTS - DMS INSERTZ TKR GRAPHICS - BF MATERIALS - BATAN - DMS PARTZ - TEAM AJ Tel : (01923) 816636
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