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#1
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Hi guys,
Can someone explain how you build these up becasue i have tried on many occassions now all i ever get is air and more air the shocks feel like crap. Whats the trick to these, sorry for all stupid question. Just it doesnt seem to work for me, so thier must be knack to doing them. Any help would be great. Also does anyone run anything on the shocks like o-ring to stop the shock from going to far up or any limiters inside the shocks |
#2
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![]() As for limiters, im running two big orange o-rings on the rear shocks to stop the uptravel and no internal limiters. Then on the front shocks i have got 1 big o-ring and no internal limiters. Ben ![]()
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Schumacher Racing - Reedy - Schelle - TKR - Bandicoot Bodies - MIP - Nextlevelrc - Trishbits - Moss Models |
#3
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Mike Williams told me to cut the insides out and then make sure you place the diaphrams onto the shock body before you screw the tops on.This works better than what i did at first, pushing the seals into the caps.
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#4
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Yes, putting the diaphragm/seal on the top of the shock body does improve the shock build.
Fill with oil - place diaphragm on - part screw cap on - push shaft up to nearly top - screw cap fully home.
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Matthew White |
#5
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Thanks for your advise guys,
But i still get full of air when i push the shock all the way in and out then it just fills up with air. ![]() I've gone back to using the diaph complete atleast i know that works ![]() |
#6
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Guys,
Ive been running my shocks bladdered, as I believed it to be the best for me - as I can build them consistently. Well, on Sunday at York my Cat was a little random, especially in the final. Felt to pull to the left, which may have been as simple as trim - as id changed servo horn several times throughout the day and my effort in doing stuff was low seeing as I was in pain with my neck. But also it seemed to do some crazy stuff on bumps and jumps - especially the big jump, it wanted to corkscrew on takeoff every lap! Seeing as id had a few impacts, the impacts which broke the servo horns, I thought I must have finally bent a screw going into the gearbox - they had survived several meetings. I also hadn't ruled out the one way diff being kaput, or a drive pin. Tonight have given the SX a thorough going over - screws not bent still, changed them anyway. One way diff still works fine (and love it). Drive pins still in tact. The only thing I did find was one of the rear bladders was cut and collapsed. On the shoulder between the thin centre and the outer o-ring it was cut by quite a bit. Would this really effect my shock so much it'd send the car into a corkscrew on a large jump? ![]() Anyways, ive cut all bladders now and rebuilt. Shock still a doddle to build consistently, and feel super smooth (with whities in now too). Chris ![]() |
#7
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Chris, yes, that would screw you completely.
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Matthew White |
#8
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Ok, thanks Matt
![]() I revoke my previous statement, and recomend to all to cut the bladders. Even if it may make the shocks harder to build (it seems not), what it will do is give the shocks complete consistency in that the bladder will not split - its already cut. Chris |
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